A milestone birthday, I gave mister my pre-selections of restaurants, he picked Sur Mesure (over David Toutain!). Thierry Marx is known for his fine cooking, his molecular cuisine and being judge at French cooking show “Top Chef”. He is also active in social project to help to train prisoners to become chefs and reintegrate into the society.
The menu consisted of 10 items, the first course and the last course were fixed, 8 dishes to choose from, and we decided for the 6 course. Each of us chose 4 dishes, and together we took the whole menu.
Amuse bouche 1 - it was all right. The servers were really fast, I couldn’t catch what they said.
Amuse bouche 2 - some oriental flavours with pita bread (if I remembered correctly)
A fine good selection of bread
I chose corn and rice bread.
Hamachi & piquillos toniques
« Risotto » de soja aux huîtres /morilles - risotto was in fact soja with oyster and morel mushroom
Potage Saint Germain Structure & déstructure - split peas soup with Italian ham lightly smoked (inside the tube) with a crispy tube. Eating instruction was to break up the crispy tube to have all the favours mixing together.
Sphère végétale à la citronnelle - squid ink tile on the sphere with peas and snap peas, a lemongrass broth - remind me of a well balance Thai broth
Langoustine « Sarrasin torréfié » concombre & menthe poivrée - tempura style langoustine with cucumber and mint sauce with cream
Maquereau en camouflage - mackerel with thin sheets of watercress and tarragon with mashed potato
Saint-pierre / pistaches & citron confit - Fish accompanied with pistachio cream, Enokitake mushroom and Lautrec pink garlic
Canette de Challans / Airelles & Grelots - Duck from Challans topped with slices of mushroom, coated with cranberry and Grelot onion sauce, maybe a tag too sweet for me, but the visual was interesting, sauce was shiny
Cochon de lait au vin rouge / Clémentine / Panais - suckling pig with parsnip, clementine and red wine sauce
Cremeaux au sésame noir / glace cassis / poivre de jamaïque - black sesame custard with blackcurrant ice cream and long pepper
Lemon in series:
Éspirit baba / lemoncello / meringue poivre de Sichuan - baba with the Italian Lemoncello and meringue with Sichuan pepper
Nage de citron noir d’Iran - Iranian black lemon swim
Éspirit tart au citron - lemon tart
Saint Honoré - the birthday pastry offered - a modern sleek version of the traditional classic - caramel at the side glittering with edible gold, vanilla cream on the top, a small chou as a reminder.
The restaurant has “deconstructed” wall decoration that echoed with the theme of the cuisine.
Very efficient service as with a two stars establishment. Dishes were overall very well executed and full of flavours and harmony, although none of the dish particularly stood out as amazing or very surprising to us. Maybe because we knew Asian palette, so it wasn’t so surprising for us. The compilation of desserts was a great way to end a meal. It was overall a pleasant experience, we had a good time.
Must visit, the toilet…
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Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx
Mandarin Oriental Hotel
251 Rue Saint Honoré
Tel: +33 1 70 98 73 00