[Paris 18e] Polissons - Lebey Guide: best bistro 2017

According to Lebey, the guide specialised in bistrots, the rather low profile Polissons beat Tomy & Co, Quinsou, Jouvence, Botanique… and won the title of the best bistro 2017. We dined there a few days ago, Mr. naf made a reservation a week before for the All Saints Day, the public holiday most restaurants closed.

Situated in the 18th district, located at the foot of Montmartre, not too far from the 18th district city hall, a rather small room with tables rather packed, a typical modern neo bistrot decoration. At the far end, we can see the open kitchen with a small bar. If you have a closer table, you can see chef Romain Lamon (ex Ritz, ex Bristol and ex Richer) at work.

No menu for dinner.

We started our meal with an amuse-bouche: Pistachio ravioli with topinambour and ham. A slide of green pasta covering the Jerusalem artichoke and ham cut in the same size cubes. Rather good.

Entrée - Mushroom tart / roasted Chanterelle

The tart was a thin tube shape crust, with creamy mushroom sauce. Need to be a mushroom lover to like this dish.

Entrée - Oyster and scallop tartare/ avocado / wasabi

A light creamy foam surrounded the dish. The dish came with a citrus butter. Unfortunately, it was just out of fridge and was very hard. I like the tartare, very fresh product.

Main - Wild duck / stuffed leg / red cabbage pie - the stuffed leg was my favourite on this plate

Main - Bass / gnocchis / grelots onions / lemon confit

Dessert - Chocolate tart / caramel / acid cream - chocolate was sublime

Dessert - Pannacotta / honey / lemon / steam biscuit

Note that the panna cotta was all over the plate, a playful dish.

You can see the Noma book and a copy of Auguste Escoffier’s Le guide culinaire on the wine fridge!

The cuisson was done correctly, taste was delicate and subtle, the cooking was done to let the food shone. In general I like the food. Less for Mr. naf, as he tended to like dishes that has more contrasting taste. The staff were professional. We found that compared to most meal in other parts of Paris with the same price tags, the clientele was much younger.

The bill was 101€, a good price. We both ordered a glass of wine with our meal.

35, rue Ramey
75018 Paris
Tuesday - Saturday 12h-14h30 and 19h30-23h
Reservation: +33 6 46 63 57 50


Do you think it deserves the title of best bistro?

Among the bistros in competition, I have only tried Quinsou and Tomy & Co, so I cannot say about Jouvence and Botanique. I have to say, technically, the 3 bistros are of the same level, the fish, and the duck of Polissons were cooked perfectly, (with the exception of the butter problem). Taste wise, it is more of a personal likings. Quinsou has a touch that I like. Antonin Bonnet made his own bread, and he sourced his vegetables and his meat and fish from terroir, like his mentor Michel Bras. There is a search of a certain perfection. It is difficult to describe, but this sensitivity shows up in his plates. Tomy & Co has an entry dish that was exceptional, I have to say the chef Tomy Gousset showed more personality in his cooking. Polisson was quite even with the 3 courses, the concept of Romain Lamon was to modernise the French classic dishes that were otherwise known as comfort food.

Lebey awarded the best entrée prize to Tomy & Co - their ox tongue tart with gribiche and radish marinated in mustard in grain - “une langue de boeuf en fine tartelette, gribiche et navet mariné, graines de moutarde”.

Why not?! The meal was a delight! Although, my personal choice would still be Quinsou!

Looks really wonderful.

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Bessarabsky Market, Kyiv. Ukraine
Credit: Juan Antonio Segal, Flickr