[Paris, 12e] Amarante

The woman at the table next to us talked up the chef, Christophe Philippe, and asked if I’d been to his previous location. I said, no, but I’d read about it. Apparently he has a devoted following. (He came out to deliver some plates and to chat with patrons; he seems quite down-to-earth.)

We were there for the bargain lunch, 19€ for two courses. I had a glass of very nice Faugères for 5€. Our starters were thinly-sliced veal tongue with mayonnaise and salad, and accras made with sole, both quite nice.

For mains I chose the tripe aux olives with purée, and my partner had joue de boeuf “croustillant” (slow-cooked beef cheeks seared on both sides to develop a crust) with fried polenta.

The TimeOut entry for Amarante suggests that lunch is “light”. I don’t know what they are talking about. These were generous and filling portions, loaded with flavour. If dinner is heavier, I don’t know if I’d be able to manage it (though, on the basis of this lunch, I’d be inclined to make the attempt).

For an extra 3€ each, we could have had a simple dessert on the menu, but we chipped in another 3€ and split the chocolate mousse made with cocoa from São Tomé et Príncipe, which was lovely (not too sweet, rich flavour, good texture).

Old-fashioned without seeming retro, very casual and relaxed atmosphere. Why was this place not packed? (Okay, it was a Monday lunch in January during Fashion Week, but still.)


I LOVED Amarante! I think that product and cooking are excellent. Christophe offers several hard to find and beautifully cooked and served innards. Fraises de veau shown here with crackling crisp toast and olives. Tender and very delicious.


Delightful waiter and perfect service. Heartily recommend to those looking for offal and to those who would like a gentle and very delicious introduction.


We went back in January. Got off the plane, took the RER and a bus to our rented flat in the 11e, dropped our bags, and walked over for a late unreserved lunch. This place tends to fly under the radar, perhaps because it is not daringly innovative, but it has a lovely low-key atmosphere, and very good food.

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I will fondly remember my lunch at Amarante for a long time. We went with a friend from other food boards who lives in Paris & split 5 small plates and 2 mains. All great, especially if you love all parts of animals. The veal tongue slices were delicate, yet very flavorful - way better than my mother’s East European boiled cows tongue (which I loved). The blood sausage was not in a casing, but was a large, thick rectangle, crisped on the top & was the best blood sausage I’ve ever had - and I speak from a lot of boudin noir, morcilla, etc “research”. The fraise de veau (pictured in a post above) was buttery, tasty and tender - wow. Escargot, veal brains & duck — all good. 3 great choc. mousses, coffees, bottle of wine, sparkling water — all in about 180euros for the 3 of us. I cant imagine ordering more food, so normal people should get out of there for half that. If I lived here, I’d live there.