We had been to his then-only address on Oberkampf in spring 2014, when you could not reserve. Now there are two addresses, and one can reserve on the website, which even has English pages. The price has gone up slightly to 39€ at Oberkampf, and it is 49€ at Gambey a half-block away (there are cheaper options at lunch at both places, if you take fewer courses). The format has not changed: counter seats with a great view of kitchen prep and execution, much interaction with friendly staff, and a set menu where dishes are explained after each course. The one thing we missed this time was Pierre himself, perhaps because both our meals were on weekends. Meals were overseen by young Korean chefs, not quite as affable, but they tried.
First, the original location. (Once again, apologies for the photos - handheld iPhone 6, oblique light…)
Burrata, beets two ways (diced, and sorbet, which really worked), citrus two ways (segment, and oil).
Lieu jaune (translates as “green pollock”, I prefer the French!), red endive, daikon microgreens.
Saucisse de morteau, lentilles du Puy, curry foam, Jerusalem artichoke chips.
Beef cheeks braised for nine hours, carrots and turnip, mustard greens, ssamjang, watermelon radish (apparently called “red meat radish” in France).
Cantal, apple compote with yuzu, black sesame. This was the weakest dish. I understand his loyalty to Cantal, and this was better than the chocolate buttercream he served with it in 2014, but still. Salers, at least! (Also, in 2014, he carved us off extra slices from the whole cheese, and his enthusiasm is contagious.)
Lychee-shiso sorbet, grapefruit mousse and buttercream, crumble, Korean omija berries. I’d never had the berries before; they were quite good.
Cantal quibbles aside, this was a nice meal, but the Gambey meal was even better. I’ll do a followup post on that.
