This county is a total food desert. While there are an uncountable number of Chinese and Italian restaurants, the former are truly terrible most of the Italians have similar menus focusing on the tried-and -rue southern-Italo-American dishes and many feature.quantity over quality. (I’ve yet to find an Italian menu that does not list cream as an ingredient in Carbonara.There are a couple of exceptions so I speak in general here with the Italians, not so with the Chinese which are closer to 1970s Hicksville than 2026 Flushing)
The one restaurant we return to when we are here in winter is BUCCAN in Palm Beach, where we’ve become regulars over the years. But it’s kind of a long drive (40 minutes or so) for us, much of it along the dreaded I-95, so we were eager to find a new, better located home base for dining out.
I was thrilled to try the new location of OCEANO KITCHEN. We had been frequent diners, first at OCEANO PIZZA and, later, at OCEANO KITCHEN in Lantana. OK changed hands more than a few years ago; “new” owners are Jeremy and Cindy Bearman who have several Manhattan restaurants on their CV including ABC Kitchen and Rouge Tomate, which were both awarded Michelin. stars. They also shared a Beard nomination in 2023 for “Best Restaurant in the South.”
Last year the Bearmans relocated to much larger space in cute Lake Worth Beach, which reminds me of a toned-down (and much more inviting) Atlantic Avenue in Delray..without all the clamor and bling that has invaded that strip. Best of all, the new restaurant not only takes reservations, but they also take credit cards, so no more rushing to get there and wait in the garden before 5pm, hoping to snag a table.
We had a terrific dinner! Jeremy changes the (short) menu every few weeks and we plan to return a few times this winter to try more dishes…
Photos posted in the wrong order, sorry.
Veal Schnitzel, with braised red cabbage and spaetzle
Had to order one pizza (three are offered); this is their “Straight Shooter,” a classic and it’s one of the best I’ve had in the US recently. Remember that the original restaurant was OCEANO PIZZA and people would flock to Lantana from Miami–without reservations.
Rigatoni (made in house) with stracciatella; formidable!
Cindy Bearman is a stellar pastry chef; this concoction contains panna cotta, gelato, and “chocolate pudding.” I won’t omit dessert on future visits.
Our bill (two diners) came to $130 before tip. It’s on the high side for this area, but the value is very much there. Since we booked on RESY, we will (I hope) be credited $100 on our Amex card since this is the first restaurant we’ve been to since the year began.
Highly recommended if you find yourself in West Palm Beach, Palm Beach or anywhere in PBC. 512 Lucerne Avenue, Lake Worth Beach. Indoor and outdoor dining, plus full (very lively) bar.
