[Northenden, Manchester] Mi & Pho

This was something of a lucky find for us. We don’t often come through Northenden but my partner happened to be doing that and, stuck in traffic, glanced over and spotted this Vietnamese restaurant. It’s almost a new cuisine for us, although we’ve had a couple of lunches at the Vnam Café on Oldham Road. There’s a sort of similarity with the two places – very casual, very basic, a young and enthusiastic crew of servers. But I suppose one difference is that at both lunches at the Vnam we’ve been almost the only customers but, even on a cold, wet, midweek December night, Mi & Pho was packed. There’s reasons for that. There’s a decent menu, they serve up hefty portions of very well cooked food, priced very competitively and, with no booze licence, there’s only a small corkage charge if you bring your own.

Starters were absolute belters. Summer rolls looked and tasted like they’d been made to order, rather than sitting in the fridge for hours. There’s four of them - big hefty things, packed with noodles, lettuce, cucumber, herbs and a choice of protein (in this case, king prawns). And a peanut sauce to dip them in. A green papaya salad looked like a Thai Som Tum salad – shredded papaya, carrot, etc with the fragrance of herbs and the zing from lime juice. And whilst there’s a kick from chilli, it’s restrained in its use, unlike the numbing effect you get with the Thai version.

We both went with noodle dishes for main courses – Bun Hanoi is in the northern Vietnamese style whilst Bun Saigon is in the southern style. The latter was the more successful - the noodles topped with a stirfry of beef, onion and pepper, in a little clingy sauce with a background chilli heat. There’s a little salad on the side and another dipping sauce (rice wine vinegar?). The other plate came without any sauce so, apart from the salad and a soy and sesame based dipping sauce, was really just undressed noodles, topped with vegetable spring rolls. Just a boring plate of food, even though the rolls were very nice in themselves.

If I have one criticism it was the fact that every time anyone came in or out, a blast of freezing air came down the restaurant. It wasn’t just us that felt it. Another couple asked for a move. They could do with trying to find a solution.

We’ll be back, with every intention of working our way through the menu over time. The generously filled bowls of pho being carried past us will be high on the list of things to try and we’ll have to go back for lunch as that’s the only time they serve banh mi – the stuffed baguette that I understand is a carryover from the French colonial times.

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Well, we never got back. Best laid plans, and all that.

But this was our first restaurant meal of this year, although as we’re in lockdown, this wasn’t a meal in the restaurant but, rather, home delivery from the restaurant via Just Eat. Going right back to spring last year, during the lockdowns and restriction tiers, we swapped our weekly restaurant night out, to a weekly restaurant home delivery. The menu seemed pretty much unchanged since our visit in 2017.

We ate summer rolls and crispy spring rolls, papaya salad and Bun Sai Gon (a noodle stirfry with pork). It all tasted fine. The summer rolls hadn’t survived the journey too well and had collapsed and stuck together in a sort of gloopy way. Which was pity as they are always my favourite bit of a Vietnamese meal. I like the picking them up and dunking them in the dipping sauce (peanut from this place). It’s just not as much fun using cutlery. And I’m used to plates in Viet places to look quite pretty - stuffing everything into takeaway cartons ruined all that.

But it makes a change for someone else to cook dinner. But I think we might wait till we can visit in person before the next visit (although, truth be told, there’s a new place opened up just down the road which we rate more highly - that isnt doing delivery), so maybe not.

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One day, when this pandemic madness is over, John, maybe we should plan a gourmet trip to Vietnam together. The food there, in its home territory, is in a different class altogether.

Did I ever tell you that, prior to my first ever visit to Vietnam - that was to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City in 2004 - I had a phobia of Vietnamese food?! That was because of my “bad” experiences with Vietnamese food in Australia (during my growing up years) and then in Singapore (throughout my young adult life) where Vietnamese food came across as a blander, stodgier and pretty much uninteresting version of other more exciting South-East Asian cuisines.

In 2004, I was to be in Saigon for 3 weeks on a business assignment, and I was having sleepless nights on what I’m going to do with regards to sustenance. Trust a glutton to lose sleep over worries about food. I actually packed my suitcase with a few kgs of biscuits. :joy:

Then, on my first evening there, the financial controller of our company’s Saigon office took me out for dinner at a restaurant just round the corner from where I was staying. It was truly an eye-opener - nothing Vietnamese I’d had before that moment came close! The flavours were fresh and intense, the meats had the perfect texture and balance of tastes, the salads were light and crisp and incredibly fresh. And it was like that throughout my stay, meal after every meal, every day, for the next 3 weeks! It’s like a whole new culinary world just opened to me. I went back to Singapore to recount my dining experiences to a disbelieving bunch of fellow glutton/gourmet/gourmand friends. But, one thing’s for sure, my phobia was gone.

Last March 2020 (before the global lockdowns because of the Wuhan virus started), I was in the former Vietnamese imperial capital of Hue, together with 5 other Singaporean foodie friends. Hue is located at the mid-point between Hanoi in the north and Saigon in the south. It is also the culinary capital of Vietnam, being home to 1,300 out of the 1,700 designated heritage food items of Vietnamese cuisine. We were just there to eat, and nothing much else. And every meal was amazing.

If we do a culinary expedition of Vietnam, you will be able to experience the gradual change of tastes and flavours as you move from Hanoi in the north southwards to Saigon: the cooking gets spicier, and sweeter, and you’ll get to see more vegetables in the various dishes - regional variances. It’s like in Japan when one goes from Tokyo southwards to Kyoto and Osaka: the soy sauce gets less salty and lighter, the miso bean-paste gets paler.

I’m just waiting for all these border closures are over so we can all travel again.

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We first went to Vietnam ~2005 as a couple and ate so well (B had gone once pre-digga). I don’t have showy food photos but have only fond memories. Get ready to sweat - my philosophy when traveling to SEA is that you can’t sweat anymore. Just jump into a body of water if possible. We can’t wait to get back.

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It’s almost unbearable in the hot months (April to July). But if you go sometime between Nov to Jan, it’ll be much cooler, with max of 18 deg C (65 deg F) during the day.

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I had a phobia of street food in certain countries including Vietnam before my first trip there in 2008. Our first night in Saigon after we arrived at the hotel was meal time, we saw people eating in those small stools all over the streets. H wanted definitely to join the locals on the streets, I refused. We fought and I agreed to join just to show I was not a snob but i was not at ease eating on the streets at all in the beginning and cleaned all utensils with the anti bacteria gel, some locals stared at me strangely! lol!!

But I observed most street stalls were very clean. They cleaned everything including the street when the meal time was finished, and they pack their stalls. There was no trash on the street, I feel the hygiene of street stalks is generally better than in restaurants when we didn’t see the kitchen.

Vietnamese cuisine suffers abroad. Many of the herbs are hard to find outside the country. Freshness and abundance of them are incredible, herbs are consumed like vegetables there and outside Vietnam, the herbs become garniture or replaced by mint and onion slice. Also the Vietnamese are very reluctant to export , it is very difficult to final good fish sauce outside Vietnam.

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Usually I just pour all the dipping sauce in the bowl to eat this. I always feel the dipping sauce given in most place are not enough.

You have to try to have a bowl of beef pho, the best in Vietnam. The hot noodles with beef broth, beef slices, herbs, lime juice and chili sauce. I made one for my neighbours (the whole family) once, the kid later asked his mother to make it again for his birthday!! If your restaurant is serious, they should separate the soup from the noodles, and herbs and meats. You reheat the soup (alone) and when it is piping hot, you put everything in the bowl and you should have a great meal.

Oh, even for take away, I put them on my own dinner wares to eat and ditch the plastic spoons etc. It’s just too depressing.

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I didn’t eat in the streets even once on that first trip in 2004. I was terrified of falling sick, as I had a terrible case of food poisoning in Bangkok once (involving oyster omelette, where the oysters were intentionally not cooked through), that made me very apprehensive about eating uncooked or undercooked street food in Thailand, Indo-China and South Asia (India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka).

But my fear slowly dissipated over the years as I find myself to be pretty “safe” as long as I am careful about where I eat: I’d choose food stalls which were well-patronized - which meant their food sells out quickly and remained fresh. I also tend to eat a little of several dishes I’d order, instead of just finishing one whole dish by itself - call it “spreading the risk”, but it works as, if a certain dish happens to be contaminated, I would feel some minor unease in my tummy which would then go away. I never got sick once (touch wood) throughout my several trips to India (Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai), Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka in the past decade.

On my subsequent trips to Saigon, I was walking around exploring the street foods. And I found out that one can often be rewarded by great food finds.

You are so very right in this regard. On my first trip to Saigon, I came across so many types of herbs and fresh greens which I’d not seen before. Till now, it’s still quite hard to obtain these herbs, although we are beginning to find more and more of them in Penang where I am. Those herbs really made all the difference in a particular dish.

I have a terrible oyster poisoning in food market in France, I think it’s a risk one has to take with raw seafood. I remember many years ago, my co workers had a japanese buffet including sushi and sashimi in a 4 stars hotel in Hong Kong, nearly of them got food poisoning the same evening. They called the place to complain, the restaurant apologised and invited them to return for another meal!! :joy:

It’s rather surprising to hear from you, to whom you are so used to street foods in Penang. I had no food intoxication in Thailand or Malaysia, only problem was my organs were burned by the heat and hot spice. :face_with_thermometer: Swollen lips in Malaysia and swollen intestine in Thailand! :joy: My only problem with street food hygiene was my trip in Cambodia. I would like to travel to India, but h puts up high resistance, the cuisines doesn’t appel to him.

Agreed! High traffic places with long queues are there for some reasons. I think traveling to south east asia without trying street food is not complete in food experience, many restaurants with English menu are geared towards expat meals. We had once been to a hole in the wall place in Saigon or Hanoi, nobody spoke English, not even a menu, to order they asked questions and point at things, we nodded our head on all. The food was good and the owner charge us the local price, we ate the whole meal for like 1 USD for a few bowls of food back in 2012 for the two of us.

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Oh no, that was back in 2004 - I only moved to Penang in 2017. I was in KL from 2011 to 2016 prior to that. Before then, I was always in Singapore, where the “street food” scene, if one can even call it that, can be a bit sterile and antiseptic.

It’s still pretty cheap in Hue, Vietnam, when we were there last year, but not that cheap anymore. But then, Vietnam is progressing by leaps and bounds the past few years. Give them another decade and they’ll probably overtake Malaysia and give Thailand a run for their money.

Saigon now has the tallest building in South-east Asia - the 461-metre tall Landmark 81 tower (comparatively, the Shard in London is 309-metres tall). This pic was shared by a Saigonite colleague who took it from her apartment:

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I was talking about the price for local, the tourist price would be more like $5 the same meal for 2 back then. Still cheap for us.

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Another one bites the dust. Heard that the restaurant has recently closed. Local gossip says they went bust.

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