New Orleans Trip Report April 2024

Here’s a report of a visit to New Orleans, one of my favorite cities to eat in, back in April of last year.

Seaworthy

I arrived in the late evening on a Friday, and after checking into my hotel in the CBD I walked over to Seaworthy, also in the CBD. This was a return visit to Seaworthy, which is one of the few restaurants that stays open late in the CBD and has a late night happy hour every day after 10pm.

Menus. They have a large selection of different oysters.




To drink, I had a very savory Seaworthy Martini ($15), which has mezcal instead of gin, and olive brine.

To eat, I started with a happy hour special - a dozen oysters for $30. The half dozen on the right were East coast oysters - Island Creek from Massachusetts , and the six on the left were Gulf oysters - Little Moon from Grand Isle, Louisiana. All were good. They came with mignonette, horseradish, cocktail sauce, and lemon.

Next, I had the Seaworthy Roll ($29), which had crawfish, trinity, celery, and mayo, and came with fries. This was like a New England lobster roll but with crawfish. It was very good. There was a buttered split hot dog bun that had a little crunch outside but was soft and pillowy inside. It had a plentiful amount of sweet crawfish tails with mayo and crunchy onion and celery. It hit the spot. The fries were pretty good too.

For dessert I had a Pimm’s Cup, which to me didn’t taste like a traditional Pimm’s Cup other than a bit of that tannic Pimm’s flavor. But it was tropical and refreshing.

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Casamento’s Restaurant

The next day, I went to Casamento’s for a pre-lunch snack / breakfast. Casamento’s is a 100+ year old seafood restaurant on Magazine Street.

Interestingly, the menu says all fried options are gluten free. I guess they only use cornmeal.


It was pretty busy on a Saturday afternoon. To start, I had some more Gulf oysters ($10.75 for a half dozen) on the half shell. They were good - nice plump oysters.

I also had a cup of gumbo ($6.95). This was quite good - slightly thickened with okra, shrimp, I think some crawfish tails, and also a bit of tomato along with some rice.

And some chargrilled oysters ($14 for a half dozen), which were fine but could have been cooked a touch less.

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Guy’s Po-Boys

For lunch proper, I walked a bit down Magazine Street to Guy’s Po-Boys.

I had a small fried shrimp po-boy ($13), fully dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo, and a Barq’s root beer. Even the small size (6" ostensibly) was quite large. The large (11") must be huge.

This was a very good po-boy, with lots of crispy coated shrimp and a roll (from Leidenheimer I believe) that held everything together. Parkway is still tops for me in my limited experience though thus far

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Hansen’s Sno-Bliz

For a cool dessert, I walked over to Hansen’s Sno-Bliz on Tchoupitoulas Street. This was my first visit to this now 85 year old establishment. They only open from March to October, and were named an “American Classic” by the James Beard Awards back in 2014.

There was a long line up on a warm 85 degree Saturday afternoon, but the line moved fairly quickly.

Inside they have three ice shaving stations. To make the sno-ball, they first fill the cup half way up with freshly shaved ice that is very fine and powdery. Then they add syrup of your choosing. I got a half satsuma (a type of citrus) and half cream of nectar as flavors. Cream of nectar is a creamy reddish vanilla and almond flavored syrup native to New Orleans (thanks Google). More shaved ice was added on top, and then another application of syrups. My cup was $5.50.

Inside.

Sizes. I dig the 90’s Jazz cups.

Flavors.

Syrups.

One of the ice shaving machines. According to Wikipedia, the machines currently in use today were built by Ernest Hansen in 1939.

Sno-ball.

It was a very nice sno-ball. The ice is very finely shaved and has a soft and fluffy consistency. The satsuma syrup was nice and tart, and the cream of nectar, which has condensed milk and was richer and creamier, rounded it all out. Great on a warm day.

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To me, the griddle job on the roll is as important as the contents. This one looks sea and swoon worthy!

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Felix’s has the best broiled / chargrilled oysters I’ve ever had.

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If you love cold treats, Creole Creamery ice cream is heavenly :slight_smile:

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Refined take on a Hurricane? That glass shape is iconic.

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The glass is the only similarity, a Pimm’s Cup is totally different. But there are places that are putting their take on Pimm’s Cups, and this is one of them

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Casamentos thank goodness is gluten free, except any bread they use. It’s my go to fried seafood stop.

Hansen’s is the best, I grew up eating Plum St Snowballs because that is where my mom would take us when we were kids. Plum street is excellent but Hansen’s is better and all the strips are homemade, just like the owners grandmother used to do.
Satsuma there is great as well as their sour flavors.

Looking at the ingredients on Seaworthy’s “Pimm’s” Cup, I see why Pimm’s is in quotes…they use amaro and I don’t even see Pimm’s listed as an ingredient.

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:+1:

Agree!

It does look like a hurricane glass. Nice catch on the menu - I didn’t realize it didn’t have any Pimm’s in it but that would explain the taste.

Emeril’s

For dinner I went to Emeril’s in the Warehouse District. Emeril’s is celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant, opened in 1990. The kitchen is now run by his son E.J. Lagasse.

When I visited Emeril’s, it had recently reopened after a 3 month renovation.

The brand new dining room. There is a large floor-to-ceiling glass window that displays the entire kitchen that I didn’t get a shot of.

To begin, I was led into the kitchen where one of the chefs presented a welcome drink of rhubarb tea and also a Vietnamese inspired spring roll filled with the fresh vegetables on display along with a dipping sauce. This was kind of cool and also just a little awkward :stuck_out_tongue:

To drink, a Creole cocktail ($18) off of the classics list, which had rye, amaro, sweet vermouth, and benedictine. It was very nice, like a Manhattan or Vieux Carré.

I got the Classics tasting menu ($195), which features several of Emeril’s classic dishes. There was also a Seasonal tasting menu available for $175.

First came some delicious amuses.

There was tuna wrapped in nori.

“PB & J” with foie gras in a shell that tasted like a corn chip. Rich and sweet.

Chilled daube on a toast round, topped with a ham hock gelée.

A shell filled with some of Emeril’s BBQ shrimp.

A ham and cheese gougere with comté cheese.

A small cup of room temperature vichyssoise.

Fancy wet nap.

Next, bread service, in which a cart with assorted breads and a tower of butter is wheeled over. I had a delicious piece of cornbread, a buttery brioche, and an epi roll. Butter was taken from the tower with a warm spoon. Excellent bread, especially the cornbread.

Smoked Salmon Cheesecake
Emeril’s Reserve Caviar, Dill
The first course was an Emeril’s classic that’s been on the menu since it opened in 1990 - a luxurious savory “cheesecake” with smoked salmon topped with a generous layer of caviar. I was informed by my waiter that Emeril used to eat the previous night’s leftovers of this dish for breakfast back when he lived above the restaurant, such a fancy breakfast! It kind of tasted like the filling of a cream cheese and smoked salmon bagel, with the luxurious addition of caviar. Delicious!

Oyster Stew
Herbsaint Cream, Foie Gras, Honshireji Mushroom
Next, an oyster stew topped with foie gras, with the liquid poured tableside. This was very good. It managed to taste almost light even with all of the rich ingredients.

Potato Alexa
Truffle, Parmesan Mornay
This is another Emeril’s classic, created for and named after Alexa Ray Joel, who once requested potatoes with truffle (as one does) as a child when visiting the restaurant with her father, Billy Joel. It is a potato shell filled with mushrooms, topped with shaved black truffles and served with a rich and creamy Mornay sauce. Delicious.

Maine Lobster Gumbo
Louisiana Rice, Trinity
Next was a gumbo. This had a rich dark seafood gumbo base, with a perfectly cooked lobster tail, and some crunch from the vegetables.

Wagyu & Daube Glacé
Lettuces, Beef Jus
This was a rich and tender piece of wagyu beef, with a demi glacé poured at the table that was really beefy and collagen rich and thick. On the left was a lettuce salad dressed with a mustard vinaigrette, and the daube that was previously seen in one of the amuses. Super delicious!

I think it came with a mini Parker roll.

Next, desserts.

Snoball
I’d just had my first sno-ball earlier in the day so was a bit tickled when this showed up as a first dessert, complete with some syrup flavors from Hansen’s Sno-Bliz. I forgot to write down which flavors I picked but it was nice and refreshing.

Banana Cream Pie
Caramel
Second dessert was a signature Emeril’s dish - banana cream pie. This was great, with banana on the bottom and a delicious rum sauce that was poured at the table.

Finally some mignardises - a mini Doberge cake, a mini beignet, a piece of raspberry pâte de fruit, a mini pastel de nata, and a chocolate bon bon.

Great meal!

You also get some snacks to take home with you - a jar of café au lait and a chocolate filled spongy pastry.

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That looks like an incredible meal, and quite a lot of food! I was full after seeing all the amuses & am in awe and envy of your voraciousness.

What a fab experience!

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What an amazing meal, thanks for sharing the report!

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Just reading this reminds me how much I miss having easy access to foie gras on restaurant menu. The only way here unfortunately is by buying it locally and making it yourself

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What an amazing meal and wonderful pics!!

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Arnaud’s French 75

For brunch on Sunday I headed to Arnaud’s in the French Quarter. The dining room was full and I hadn’t made a reservation, so I grabbed a bite at Arnaud’s French 75 bar instead.

Inside the French 75 bar.

Menus - the bar has a much smaller food menu than the main dining room. They didn’t have their famous soufflé potatoes available at the bar anymore, unfortunately.


To drink, a well made Gin Fizz ($14), a quintessential brunch cocktail originating from New Orleans.

I had a bowl of their Chicken and Andouille Gumbo ($10) to start, which was very good and had some rice.

And also the Shrimp Arnaud ($14.75), which is Arnaud’s signature dish. It’s made of Gulf shrimp marinated in a Creole remoulade sauce, and tasted like a tangy shrimp salad with some sinus opening horseradish. It was also very good.

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Felix’s

For an afternoon snack after wandering around the French Quarter and taking a tour of the Hermann-Grima House in the FQ, I hit up Felix’s for some oysters.

Menu.

I also had a strong Pimm’s Cup to drink.

Oysters on the Half-Shell ($15 for a half dozen)
I had some raw oysters. They were good Gulf oysters, nicely shucked.

Char-Grilled Oysters ($19 for a half dozen)
And of course, some char-grilled oysters. Great! I need to try more places for charbroiled oysters - I still haven’t tried Drago’s which invented the dish in the early 1990’s - but for me Felix’s is still the best that I’ve had thus far. Buttery with I think some cheese, and a pleasant smokiness from the grill. It came with some airy French bread that did a good job as a butter sponge.


I spent some more time in the French Quarter.

And had a snack of beignets and chicory coffee at Cafe du Monde in the French Market.

And took in a few sets at Fritzel’s on Bourbon Street.

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Gotta wear black when partaking at Cafe du Monde, so that everyone knows where you’ve been !

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How Miami Vice!!

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