Mumbai 2025 [Maharashtra, India]

I had previously sought advice about carrying the wedding present I’d bought:

I had followed the tips in the thread to try and the box with the champagne flutes and ice bucket survived in the hand luggage on the flight. Then we had a pretty bumpy 4 hour plus journey by car to the wedding venue. My husband was wondering aloud why I thought glassware was a good idea for a wedding present in this scenario. The presents were to be distributed the morning of the wedding during the ‘haldi’ (turmeric) ceremony, where turmeric paste is smeared on the bride and groom. So I show up with a massive box in a huge gift bag and everyone else has sensibly brought gifts of gold jewellery in dainty little bags. I ended up parking the bag next to my eldest aunt until the appointed time because I knew it would be safe there. Well, the bag was safe but I wasn’t safe from her comments. The first thing she asked me was: is it gold? I was like, ummmm no (subtext: can’t you see the size of the box?), it’s glassware. My aunt gave me a withering look. After that, every person who passed by her was shown the box, with the comment: this is the gift from medgirl - it isn’t gold.
The bride’s mother sent me a message after the wedding saying the contents were intact. Phew!

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One of the things that stood out for me on this trip was that India (or at least Mumbai) has really upped its coffee game. Yes, there are the middle of the road players like Cafe Coffee Day (Indian chain) and Starbucks (saw lots of branches in Mumbai, but can’t recall seeing any in Kolkata). But I came across quite a few independent cafes offering outstanding coffee. And the hotels were also punching above what I expected - the Holiday Inn had a Lavazza automated bean to cup machine and the Sula resort also had a bean to cup machine (not as fancy but turned out a nice espresso and Americano).

My favourite find of the trip was Subko (roughly translates as “For all”)

This is a mini-chain with several locations around Mumbai (just Google ‘Subko Mumbai’). We went to The Cacao Mill by Subko (2nd Pasta Lane, Colaba Market, Colaba, Mumbai 400005) which has a chocolate factory in-house and a big cafe in a warehouse type space.

Apart from coffee, they also have a bakery with sweet and savoury items, and a chocolaterie. One each of all items are displayed behind a glass case with detailed labels.

Pretty much everything looked super tempting. If you order an item, they bring one out from somewhere which is not the glass case! And when an item runs out, they remove the label in the case and put a black sticker with ‘khalaas’ (‘finished’ in Urdu) in the paper menu next to the item.

I took photos of a few pages of the menu:

We also found (by accident), a mini branch of Subko based within the lobby of the Abode hotel. This was also a cool space, but with a more limited offering of sweets and savouries.

This branch has a little fridge with a range of their own brand chocolate:

Things we tried:

Cortado

Piccolo and chocolate chip cookie made with their own dark chocolate, Kashmiri walnuts and flaky sea salt.

Cold brew

Banana chocolate chip cake with streusel on top




Own brand filled chocolate bar

South Indian filter coffee

Dark chocolate cube filled with sea buckthorn jam and almonds

Cross section of said cube with dark chocolate cold brew tart with hazelnuts

Everything was delicious. We made 4-5 visits across both those branches while we were in Mumbai. We saw a British couple walk out as they thought it was too expensive. I think the prices are very fair for the quality of product and the ambience in the cafes. I hope this brand thrives and maintains its ethos.

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One of the mini branches of Subko is located inside a really nice bookstore called Kitab Khana:

https://www.kitabkhana.in/en

I got a collection of short stories and some cookbooks from this bookstore:

I love these Penguin India published cookbooks. I already have the Bengal and Andhra versions.

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It looks and sounds great! And very attractive spaces.

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Dinner at Delhi Darbar

I was craving biryani. This restaurant was a short walk from our hotel and a solid pick for North Indian fare. The biryani was excellent, with a lot more mutton than I expected (my usual place in Kolkata only gives you one piece per serving whereas here I got at least 4 pieces). The meat was very tender.

Attentive service even though the place was quite busy.

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Those prawns look faboski!

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Late drinks at the Harbour Bar at the Taj Palace

The Taj Palace was just a short stroll from our decidedly less luxe hotel. We were the only persons arriving on foot! The entrance was just a continuous parade of luxury cars, including custom Range Rovers and Maybachs. The doormen seemed surprised by our pedestrian arrival but let us in.

Pricier than central London for cocktails.

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Sorry for the diversion (I’m really enjoying your posts) but, since he came up in your trip preparation and is reasonably relevant, I thought I’d share this from Steve Sando (Rancho Gordo beans in Napa, California):
“.. We’re very pleased to announce that Rancho Gordo Press will be publishing Arnab Chakladar’s (@myannoyingopinions) *“Contemporary Indian Cooking”*next year. I’ve known Arnab for years. We met on the food forums and I can’t wait to share his clever twists on Indian cuisine”.

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I had a fit of pique when my husband considered ordering off the Indo-Chinese section of the Delhi Darbar menu. But he was determined to get his Indochinese fix and it ended up being at Trishna. I think there was a discussion about Trishna earlier in this thread with the conclusion being it was now too touristy and past its heyday. Anyway, Trishna was very conveniently located for our day of traipsing around Kala Ghoda doing artsy stuff. We hit up as many museums and galleries as we could. We weren’t impressed by the Krishen Khanna exhibition at the National Museum of Modern Art but I did enjoy seeing a few original MF Husains there. Then the big Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya which was absolutely brilliant and had a really interesting exhibition going on:

I loved the huge Buddha statue in the garden but there were barriers all around and this was the closest I could get:

We also ended up buying art, both off the street from sidewalk vendors and from an artist in the Jehangir Art Gallery. The ones off the street were done on upcycled vintage postcards:

Anyway, we sort of stumbled across Trishna while wandering around and decided we might as well give it a whirl for seafood. It was touristy and we were tourists. At least the servers were pretty good and it was fun watching all the foreign tourists have a great time in the dining room that seemed to have a weirdly old school vibe despite the restaurant being from 1991.

We perused the menu for a long time and got crab anxiety. We asked to look at the lobsters and jumbo prawns, which were brought out for us to understand the pricing according to size:

We ended up ordering 2 of the jumbo prawns at 900 rupees each. I wanted the butter pepper garlic prep. When my husband had trouble deciding the prep for his prawn, the server patiently explained the various preps and showed him corresponding photos on an iPad, which was quite helpful. He also advised on the Chinese noodles, which my husband was determined to have. I ordered steamed white rice, because a Bengali gal needs some white rice with her chingri.

I really loved the Trishna prawn prep. Perfectly cooked. That butter garlic sauce would vanquish an army of vampires. I even enjoyed the peas, carrots and green beans that came with it. The rice was perfect too. My butter pepper garlic prawn:

We felt it was a very reasonable bill.

We ended up going to Trishna again as our last lunch in Mumbai, and I had the butter pepper garlic jumbo prawn again. This might be my ultimate comfort food experience.

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Those PRAWNS!!! :drooling_face::drooling_face::drooling_face:

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They were the biggest prawns I had ever eaten!

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Glad you got the giant prawns! Were they sweet?
How much were the lobsters?

I’m intrigued by the vegetable inclusion – when we had crab butter garlic there were no vegetabes on offer – maybe we just didn’t look like we wanted any? :thinking: :joy:

Those colossal prawns at home earlier this year:

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And the butter garlic crab at Trishna:

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Glad you made it to DD!
And pleased you enjoyed it too!
For me, this is the platonic ideal of biryani (aside from my mom’s).

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Yes, nice and sweet. IIRC, the lobsters were 3900 and 2900 from left to right, perhaps more?

We only realised later that there is an option to get the crab served de-shelled. Most people were tucking into the crabs in the shell, wearing the black bibs with Trishna branding with an embroidered red crab. We saw one lobster come out, also served in the shell.

Holy wow!!

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Interesting price points on lobster. I think the crab was 3000-ish for the smaller and 5000-ish for the giant in mid-2024 .

They wouldn’t sell much crab if they didn’t offer it shelled – most tourists (and many locals who can spend the money but didn’t grow up eating it) wouldn’t be able to order it.

I may be mistaken on the lobster prices. I’m not an expert when it comes too lobster. Give me a jumbo prawn anyday over a lobster - less shell and less work to get the meat.

Maybe one day I’ll shell out for a lobster in Mumbai (sorry for the pun)!

Got a bit sidetracked with work and need to finish off my Mumbai eating reports.

One of the days we had booked dinner at Indian Accent. It was located sort of far from our hotel, so we over planned and got to BKC (Bandra Kurla Complex, a sort of business oriented neighborhood where Indian Accent is located) really early. We quite enjoyed wandering around the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC), which had some amazing exhibits of Indian handicrafts on the ground floor. We ended up in the NMACC Arts Café on the top floor, where we sat on the verandah outside in lovely weather with a nice view.

Solid Americano which came with amazing shortbread-like Indian cookies, sort of sweet and savoury with cumin seeds. The cookies were just melt in your mouth.

We also had cocktails and snacks.

Noticed this on the way out:

Shah Rukh Khan might be the king of Bollywood but his impromptu verse really sucks.

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On to Indian Accent for dinner. This was a special occasion dinner I booked to celebrate my husband’s 50th birthday. This is probably one of the fanciest, if not the fanciest meals I have ever had. The restaurant is a beautiful space, even though the lighting was a bit too low for my middle-aged eyes. The service was excellent. We were seated on a cozy two-seater loveseat type sofa at a table facing floor to ceiling windows looking out on the NMACC ‘Fountain of Joy’. Because of the timing of our booking, we got to see the fountain do its light show thing while we ate dinner. Cool.

The server said it wouldn’t be a problem if my husband did the tasting menu and I ordered a la carte. My a la carte order was slightly off piste, consisting of 2 starters and a side dish. I had a cocktail to start: coconut & jasmine highball (light rum, dark rum, house coconut & jasmine soda). This came with a small toast piled with coconut cream.

What I didn’t realise, is that I would end up getting a decent proportion of the tasting menu thrown in as freebies. I wasn’t really expecting that. It was all super delicious but I was really struggling with stomach space by the end. Too much of a good thing?!

We were both given mini naan filled with blue cheese and a tall thin mug of tomato rasam to start (this was part of the tasting menu). The naans looked adorable and were very tasty.

The next little trio of tastes was also served to both of us (part of the tasting menu): Multani moth kachori, channa jor garam and papdi chaat. These were bite-sized twists on Indian street snacks.

I got served my first starter when my husband was served his first larger course. I had ‘beet and peanut butter chop, kasundi cream and beet pickle’. I chose this because the description reminded me of the ‘vegetable chops’ my mother-in-law makes. Chops are a Bengali term for croquettes.

The Indian Accent version consisted of tiny spherical chops cut in half with a taste reminiscent of my mother-in-law’s classic one, heavy with beetroot and peanut. There was a cylinder of cream cheese like something piped down the middle which didn’t add anything. I can’t remember what my husband had for this course. I didn’t take a photo.

Palate cleanser: a tiny popsicle made of pomegranate shikanjvi (digestive drink) arrived in a toy pressure cooker. Cute and refreshing.

My next starter was Kanyakumari crab, XO balchao, mirchi pao. This was fantastic - sweet white crabmeat and soft pillowy spicy focaccia-like bread.

My husband had to choose the main for the tasting menu. I think I was in the ladies’ restroom when he made this choice but he didn’t realise what khandvi and kadhi were, so he chose the dry aged duck with khandvi and corn kadhi instead of the lamb shank because the shank was advertised as coming with an almond korma and he doesn’t like sweet creamy things. So for him, the sweetish Gujarati flavours were a miss. It looked beautiful though.

Now, when I ordered my side dish, which was Kashmiri morel pulao with cardamom and pine nuts, the server expressed concern that it would be too dry on its own and I said I prefer dry preparations and I really wanted to try morels as I had never had them. Suddenly, I was presented with a dish compliments of the chef, which was a stuffed morel with shaved truffle and a parmesan papad. Wow. Talk about gilding a lily. This was like pure mushroom overload.

My pulao. This was sort of the opposite - simple and letting the morel shine.

Confession: I took most of the pulao and some crab home in a doggy bag and the leftovers were terrific heated up for breakfast the next morning!

By now we were on to desserts, where I got a portion of two of the desserts on offer from the tasting menu. Tiny cones of soft serve flavoured with the Indian sweet motichoor.

Amritsari black plum, saffron mascarpone, crispy seviyan:

And my husband got a special extra dessert:

So, I had probably 30 percent of the tasting menu that I wasn’t really expecting. I would have been perfectly happy with just the few things I ordered a la carte. While it feels nice to be given freebies it also felt a bit excessive. I can’t eat a large amount and I certainly ended up having to take a significant portion of my food home. Hmmmm. Is there such a thing a service that is too attentive?

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It both looks and sounds very special. I do know what you mean though about feeling ambivalent about the extras. So nice! Too much!!

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