[Mottram St Andrew, Cheshire] Bulls Head

It’s been a while since I last wrote about my favourite local dining pub. In fact, with the change of ownership, and deteriorated food, of the Red Lion at High Lane, Stockport, it’s now the only one of two local dining pubs on my list. We went for a quick one course lunch.

Whilst the various pubs in this small chain have flexibility over menus, there always seems to be a handful of dishes that are always available. Always a burger. Always a long cooked lamb dish. Always ham, egg and chips. One of us went for that, swapping out the eggs for a side salad. Two thick slices of tasty ham, one a bit scaggy. Nice chips. Well dressed salad with, wonder of wonders, tasty ripe tomatoes.

The other plate was a classic fish and chips. Nice crisp batter round the haddock. The chips, of course – perhaps a bit too much “fat chips” for perfection. A goodly dollop of mushy peas and a nice tangy tartare sauce. Malt vinegar was all it needed and a bottle was quickly brought.

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“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold