[Mottram St Andrew, Cheshire] Bull's Head

There’s usually much to like about lunch at any of the dining pubs in the Brunning & Price chain. We’ve been to several over the years but the Bulls Head is the nearest to home and this is the third time we’ve been this year. One of the things I like is that, although this is a chain and company HQ must give some direction about the food, each individual chef has scope to develop their daily menu, taking account of seasonality and, often, local produce. So, for example, you’ll always find fish & chips on every menu but, here at the Bulls Head, you also find cheese & onion pie, using the local Appleby’s Cheshire where it might be a generic Cheddar in another county. And one look at the menu tells you this is early winter with Christmas approaching. There’s different game of course, turkey in the main courses, Stilton in a quiche and Christmas pudding, of course. Even pigs in blankets as a starter, with a mustard ketchup for dunking.

Applebys Cheshire was also in croquettes, mixed with ham hock and served as a starter with Branston Pickle. Baked Camembert felt very retro – I don’t think I’ve eaten it for, literally decades. It’s deliciously oozy, with slices of toasted ciabatta to slather it over. And, alongside, an apricot chutney and a lovely little salad of finely sliced radish, ribbons of cucumber (or was it courgette) and candied walnuts.

Pheasant worked really well as a seasonal spin for a burger – rich and gamey, balanced with pancetta, cheese and garlicky mayo. Good bun as well, holding its shape till the last mouthful. There’s fries, of course and a celeriac and mustard slaw. A lighter touch with a beef salad that’s often on the menu. It’s full of East Asian influences. A sweet & sour coating to the strips of beef, crisp like you’d get on a toffee apple. The salad is Chinese cabbage, red onion, red pepper, red chilli, coriander and cashew nuts. Both of these dishes were really good.

We were thinking about just finishing with coffee but greed got the better of us but, as often, desserts may not have been worth the calories. Arctic slice was a modern take on the 80s classic frozen dessert. A sandwich made with two slices of a rather dry chocolate cake, “buttered” with orange marmalade, with vanilla ice cream as the filling. There’s a scattering of mandarin orange and a chocolate sauce. A waffle was served drenched in a warm red berry and cherry compote and topped with ice cream. It’s the better of the two – I’m going to nick that one to try at home with those bags of frozen red fruits from the supermarket. I think even I can pull that one off.

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I can eat these every day!!

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