Montreal and Quebec City Trip Report Day 1

Day 1 Montreal: Road trip! Clear skies and good driving let us make Montreal in good time. We checked into Maison Francois Denis, a funky apartment just a short walk away from Au Pied de Cochon. Once you make it up the craaaaazy spiral stairs, the apartment itself is very clean and very quiet even though it’s on a main street.


The next stop in the city was at La Chouette cafe for a much needed coffee. We didn’t know it at the time, but they’re very popular for their cookie decorating sessions where they bake the cookies in house and let you personalize them yourself. No decorating for us, but the lattes were delicious.

Dinner! Au Pied de Cochon: Yep, this is the temple of foie gras and gastronomic excess. Excellent food. The only just okay dish was their signature duck in a can. They make the cans in house as a vessel to cook the duck in. This isn’t a real conserve, so it’s not something you can buy and have in your cupboard. What’s inside is cooked to rare but the flavours were muddied and it tasted mostly of cabbage. Fun gimmick, but far outshone by the other dishes. I wouldn’t order it again.
Menu:


Duck temaki:

Foie gras nigiri:

Foie gras and poached pear:

Duck in a can:

Standout of the night was the guinea fowl and morels. If you like morels, they’re stuffed into the guinea fowl, sauteed and also pureed into the sauce:

Dessert was an over-the-top rich pouding chomeur - cake cooked in a butter maple syrup sauce. Move over, butter tarts:

Definitely worth the trip. We waddled back to the apartment.

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Sounds like a wonderful meal. We had a rez at APDC many years ago, when it was THE place to go in Montreal. Despite feeling under the weather, I didn’t want to give up our meal. Bad idea.

Those stairs are reminiscent of Amsterdam / Dutch dwellings! Careful getting up & down :slight_smile:

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When I read the menu, that is what I would have ordered. Glad to hear it was great!

And those stairs!!!

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Between this and @Phoenikia’s chicken & morel vol au vent recently, I am having a serious morel / APDC craving :star_struck:

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I didn’t realize how delicious morels could be, until I ordered that Vol au Vent.

This made me think of you, @jammy

Good article. I’m going to have to try some of those at home, though I wish bon appetit would have published it before the trip.:slight_smile:

One thing we’ve been doing for years because of Au Pied de Cochon is pouring a bit of maple syrup on fried eggs while they’re still cooking in the pan. It caramelizes a bit and tastes really good, especially when you make a breakfast sandwich with eggs, a sausage round (with maple syrup in it, bien sûr) and a bit of cheese (taleggio is really good). When ramps are in season, the sandwiches also get a topping of ramps fried in butter and cream.

Now I want a breakfast sandwich for lunch.

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I was just frying up some bacon and eggs for me and my DC. I have added maple to brie and camembert on toast, and to grilled cheese sandwiches , but have not added maple to my fried egg yet.

I will try that today

for reference. seems most Martin Picard egg recipes are on the Toronto Star or WSJ sites, I’m avoiding articles with paywalls.

https://food52.com/story/28416-maple-fried-egg-breakfast-sandwich
https://food52.com/recipes/90049-maple-fried-egg-and-sausage-biscuit

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Day 2:

Breakfast at Bar George. Historic and beautiful place where the eggs are done right, the bacon is crisp and the home fries are cooked in duck fat.
Dining rooms:

We went for a bit of a wander and saw:


If there’s anyone who deserves a giant mural, it’s Leonard.

Next stop was Avanaa Chocolate, a bean to bar shop that I’ve ordered from online before. This is the best kind of souvenir.

We picked up a pizza slice from a local shop and headed off to Quebec City. The driving was getting pretty dodgy by the time we arrived, with snow coming down hard enough to coat the roads. We made a pit stop at a Quebec Costco that made the local ones look mingy and sad as far as the food went - so many local cheeses and charcuterie (actually the same goes for the Metro grocery stores there. Seriously, Metro had a whole cooler of charcuterie). They were more like specialty shops here than grocery stores.

We finally checked in at The Frontenac and made our way to the attraction of the trip: the German Christmas market. Very nicely done! It was most decidedly Quebecois German, though, with local artisans and food, and it was busy, busy, busy. We had curry wurst and beer, of course.

A bit of a snack at the Dorsay pub, then off to sleep.

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Day 3:
Woke to a chilly morning and had breakfast at


Still a good place after 15 years. Poached egg on avocado toast satisfied at least a little of the veggie cravings.

A breakfast sandwich for big J:

After strolling around for a few hours, we discovered Le Clan restaurant. This place is an absolute gem, offering lunch and, lucky for us, weekend brunch. Hands down the BEST brunch we have ever had, anywhere. Everything was made in-house. Flavour, texture, quantity and presentation were perfect. There is no a la carte menu, you get the full deal and there was not an inch of the table that didn’t have a plate of deliciously prepared food on it. Great service, as well.


A small sample of what was on offer:
Beet hummus with cumin crisps:

Cheese fondue pockets:

Whelk cromesquis:

Caribou sausages:


Cranberry and chocolate bread pudding with custard:

Mini banoffee pies:


The brunch was so good, I’d love to try their evening menu, though a reservation is needed.
We waddled back to the hotel, again, and decided that the only thing we needed for dinner was a snack of apples and cheese.

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That looks and sounds completely fabulous!!

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you are doing it right!

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Interesting to see cromesquis made from something other than foie gras, the only ones I’ve had, at APDC. They were really incredible. I have the recipe (in a book called “Foie Gras”), and failed miserably. A chef there told me their mod to the recipe; I haven’t tried it yet.

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Day 4:
An egg and cheese bagel for breakfast and a a few crackers with cheese and apples for lunch because, I still cannot believe it, someone’s cancellation and some ultimate timing of checking the restaurant’s reservation calendar last minute got us a spot at Tanière 3. There are only two Michelin 2 star restaurants in Canada: Pearl Morissette and Tanière 3, and Tanière is booking into February.

It was a lovely surprise to round out a wonderful weekend. There is no overt signage of Tanière’s name on the outside of the building, only two plaques indicating Michelin stars and Relais & Chateaux. You are sent an entry code to the front door by text, which you punch in and enter into:


which leads you to the first room for drinks and appetizers.

Tanière only uses Canadian ingredients. If it doesn’t grow here, it isn’t used. Keep that in mind.
We started with a mocktail of pineapple weed, elderflower and wild mint. It tasted like a tropical cocktail. I would not have guessed this combination of ingredients was in it. Served along with it was sashimi quality salmon with a buttermilk foam:

followed by a wild parsnip tart with cranberry and brined cheese:

poached oysters with delicata squash:

duck heart with viburnum berry beside duck gizzard in phyllo:

and venison in bannock bread:

Now, it was time to move to the next room, another beautiful space, for the larger plates:

Striped bass with prickly ash:

Caviar, scallop and an ultra local Raphaelle potato:

Lobster with matsutake, lemongrass and cabbage:

Spicy lobster in phyllo rolls:

Trout, Labrador tea and fermented spruce. First presented in the clay it was cooked in. The hot clay activated the oils in the evergreen branches it was on. The beautiful, piney aroma led into the fermented spruce on the trout.


Quail with anise hyssop and foie gras:

Sourdough to dip into foie gras bits and goose fat:

Venison with kalette, jerusalem artichoke and hazelnut:


There is no picture of the next dish because the chef pulled one over on us and it was consumed before we thought to photograph. The pre-dessert was a creme anglaise flavoured with sweet grass and sweet clover, with fake caviar (caramel bits), and scallop slices (panna cotta slices). It looked exactly like the scallop, caviar and potato dish and the server told us: “The chef saw how much you enjoyed the scallop dish, so he asked me to bring you this.” Sneaky use of words. Well, we really did enjoy the scallops and were extremely happy to have more, so we dug in with gusto, then shocked surprise and pleasure as we realized this was something completely different and the only picture of the pre-dessert is:

Very clever, chef!
Dessert saw us in the final dining area. It was nice to stretch the legs a little, and this room was such a beautiful, light space:

First dessert featured corn. The corn from the cob is actually ice cream, but I don’t recall what the other dessert pieces were, exactly, though all had the flavour of sweet corn. There was also a lovely cornbread.


The last desserts were presented in such a cute way:

The butterfly featured apricot and beebalm:

The spongecake had honey, chamomile and plum:

And this one threw me:

The nest with the egg was flavoured with coriander, turmeric, and if I recall correctly, lemon verbena. It tasted like a perfect lemon meringue tart, not a citrus fruit in sight. In fact, because there were no ingredients that were not from Canada, it got me thinking a little more “outside the box” when it comes to adding flavour to what I cook at home. I’ll never be a chef of any kind, but I can sure use some of the ideas in a more “at home” way.

All in all, this was a brilliant meal, and I can see why Tanière 3 has Michelin stars. The team at this restaurant has really put together something special.
As before, we waddled back to our suite. Good thing the Frontenac was only a short walk away. What an amazing finish to a wonderful weekend.

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That does look and sound amazing!!