Visited Molise, commonly known in other Italian areas as “the region that does not exist,” a slogan printed on t-shirts for sale in Termoli but instead of “does not,” they proclaim, “Molise, WOW!!” Yes, I bought one!
We lodged in two locales in the region: First, two nights on the coast in Termoli; had planned 5 nights but cut them short to visit the Gargano in Puglia (see report on Gargano, Vieste). As it happened, it was a good call, as weather turned from sunny and hot to hard rain and chilly the day after we arrived. Stayed at Residenza Sveva in the historic town of Molise, overlooking the Adriatic. This albergo diffuso, vaguely translated as “scattered hotel,” is comprised of several restored buildings converted into fairly upscale hotel rooms. It is an easy walk to “new” Termoli but parking–just forget it. You are on your own to find a spot, either at the Municipio or at the Port and good luck schlepping your luggage! But truly, the staff member on call probably felt pity on me and he came along as I drove the rental car to look for parking, after unloading the suitcases about 300 mt from the actual hotel…
BRODETTO AT DA NICOLINO
https://www.ristorantenicolino.it/
I’d long heard of Brodetto, probably first from Lidia Bastianich who was raised far further north along the Adriatic Coast in what is now Croatia. Each region, each city, has its own version of this fish stew. I cannot speak to the others, but in Termoli, brodetto consists of 10 fishes/shellfishes, served in a tomato sauce with broken spaghetti as a first course.
DA NICOLETTO is an old-line restaurant in this port city, robustly patronized by a local crowd. Reservations are in order and, in fact, I booked for the same night as I walked back from the parking lot after arrival.
Jam-Packed restaurant. There is a specific and unalterable procession of courses for this dish.
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Diner is presented with a plate of what looks like broken spaghetti.
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Bread basket brought to table
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Warning that brodetto takes 30 minutes
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Brodetto arrives in spanking hot terra cotta oval dish, steeped in tomato sauce.
B read is whisked away.
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New diners instructed to spoon sauce ONLY, not fish, over spaghetti. This is so delicious I could stop short of the actual fish, which are mostly pezze azzuro (forgive mixture of Spanish, which I speak, and Italian, which I speak almost nil)
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Diner spoons tomato sauce and declares it might be best ever tomato sauce…no fishy taste at all. Even fish-hater at table partakes.
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Bread brought back to table, as bruschetta, having been “burned.”
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Actual brodetto is finally close to non-searing heat and ready to be tasted.
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Lots of bones. This diner picks out the sungilli, clams and mussels first and then attempts a poor dive into the actual fish…eats a few, tried to banish fears of choking on bones which are many. Gives up and returns to broken spaghetti with the fantastic tomato sauce.
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Waiter, only Afircan waiter we saw on this trip, was concerned that we did not like the brodetto…no problem, I was filled up and hapapy I had a chance to taste this iconic dish.
Would I order it again…no. I am probably the wrong person to listen to, but the small fish are served whole. I often cook whole fish at home but these were small and difficult to dislodge the bones and I found myself thinking about where the nearest hospital was in case I choked, because I got so many bones in my mouth.
(Gave myself away there, eh?)
In any case, high recommendation for this restaurant. I would certainly return, but would order other seafood next time…it’s a very, very good address:
Kitchen with cazuelas of brodetto in prep:
Da Nicoletto interior front dining room:
