My choice of words “most creative” was intentional— there’s not a lot of experimentation with Chinese flavors nowadays, drunk hacks or not. Meanwhile, even neighborhood restaurants are playing with Korean or Japanese flavors (kimchi reuben at Dark Horse Inn). The interesting newer Chinese stuff is inspired by dishes overseas (yes, there are more interesting traditional dishes than anyone can possibly eat, but it’s nice to have something with a local identity). Some newer dishes at Benu and State Bird Provisions and the underwhelming clamshell bao fad. No restaurants specializing in creative Chinese except the divisive MC, which is inconsistent and has dishes that are often not as good as the source material.
Right, Tropp’s goal seems to have been to challenge American conceptions about Chinese food. I don’t get a sense from her writing that she was trying to bridge the cuisines in a bi-directional manner, which Jiu is in a position to do (I’m curious what he’ll serve (and charge) when he rents out the banquet hall above the restaurant).
I agree— I have no problem with glutamate, just its overuse, the same way I don’t like too much salt or sugar. I like it in salt and pepper squid, and would find Jiu’s dish bland if the soy dip weren’t there (fennel was good on its own).
