Michelin France Guide 2023

It comes out on Monday, and a number of French restaurants have lost stars, including Guy Savoy.

Two of the World’s Top Chefs in France Are Losing Michelin Stars


Is there any information about why Michelin has taken this decision? Would there be a consensus amongst diners that it’s justified. I’m aware that it is usually very reluctant to downgrade 3* places.

In similar vein, I’m interested in the announcement of the UK listings next month. Although the “Cult of Michelin” is waning here, it remains important - just not as relevent as it used to be.


They generally do not disclose why. I still use Michelin as a research tool, but it is juat one of many things I consult when planning.

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I appreciate that but was interested to know if there was gossip.

Does anyone know which Paris restaurants got new stars? Couldn’t find it easily when googling.

Did find this, but not crystal clear.

Or maybe it is (bold and line breaks inserted by me):

Anona (Paris 17th arrondissement), run by Thibaut Spiwack;
Villa9Trois (Montreuil), overseen by the Breton Camille Saint-M’Leux;
and the eponymous restaurant of Malory Gabsi (Paris 17th arrondissement).
Omar Dhiab (Paris 1st arrondissement)
and Terumitsu Saito, of the restaurant Ōrtensia (Paris 16th arrondissement), add a touch of exoticism - respectively Egyptian and Japanese - to the gastronomic landscape of Paris.
In the 8th arrondissement, Martino Ruggeri demonstrates noteworthy cookery at his Maison Ruggieri
while Pascal Barbot receives his first MICHELIN Star directly upon the reopening of his restaurant Astrance in the 16th arrondissement.

I think you’ve got it, Andy.

I’ve eaten several times at Ôrtensia (always lunch) and love it.

I’ve eaten once at Omar Dhiab and as I’ve previously indicated, I need to see more of what they can do before I rate it personally, but I’m not surprised at all that it received a star.

I’ve not been to any of the others.

As for the new Astrance, as I’ve also indicated previously, reviews are very mixed and the prices are very high.

I think especially well deserved for Omar Dhiab and, above all, Mallory Gabsi. But bittersweet. Mallory Gabsi, near my office and a great value for the quality until now, will probably jack its prices up by 50%. Boohoo.

For the complete list of stars in each region, this page helps.

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Those days are gone. Since a few years, the team headed by Gwendal Poullennec has downgraded a few places include the mythical restaurant of Paul Bocuse (they waited after his death though) and that of Marc Veyrat.

Interesting comments by another top French chef, Thierry Marx (sorry it’s in French): It’s the game, we know the rules…

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Actually Marx is bluffing. Nobody knows the rules, and that’s not news. All we can be aware of is that they have been shifting constantly, and what is most apparent is that they’re decided on a case-by-case basis. For instance it makes no sense to make Savoy go down by one star, no sense at all — until you start thinking that the decision may be aimed more to La Liste than to Savoy itself, and then a light bulb appears. Michelin is about group politics above all, and whatever seems to make sense year after year — for there’s some of that, too — insures that the remaining opacity goes on unquestioned. That’s how it’s been going on for years, and he knows that. If he had lost (deservedly IMO) a star or both, he would have had an entirely different discourse.

(The “critique d’une violence absolue” he refers to is very probably Durand-Souffland’s recent article in Le Figaro. Well, as a matter of fact, that article was rather kind, not of an absolute violence. I would have been less kind, but the last time I was at Sur Mesure was a long time ago and all I wanted to do was forget about it. Durand-Souffland’s piece seems to indicate that the place hasn’t changed much.)