Will it matter?
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Interesting. I do browse Michelin Bib Gourmand recommendations when visiting destinations in Europe, so I have a hypothesis that visitors to Boston could find those useful if Bib Gourmand will be part of the coverage here.
I have mixed feelings. I’ve never really figured out how to interpret the Michelin ratings. We had a more delicious and memorable meal at a 1-star in Lucca than at a 3-star in Florence. The service wasn’t as polished, but the 3-star seemed performative. A multi-page water menu gave us an early indication.
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I have a theory on the higher end, having eaten at a fair number of 2 and 3 star places in the US and Europe. I have found almost without exception that the 2 star places were better and more interesting than the 3 star places. I think it comes down to effort/rest: The 2 star places are trying hard to get that third star. They’re pulling out all the stops and making absolutely certain that everything is perfect. The 3 star places are resting, having already gotten there. They’re just phoning it in at that point. 1 star, probably much of the same, but I do think there’s an appreciable gap between at least newly-awarded 1 star and 2 star places I’ve personally visited. I think by and large Michelin knows what it’s doing and its ratings are a bit more trustworthy and consistent than other systems, e.g. Worlds 50 Best.
As for Boston, I can’t think of many places that in my mind might qualify for even a single star; and certainly not two. The city has just never cultivated that kind of food scene, for better or for worse.
I haven’t been to that many, but I wouldn’t say that Azurmendi, Lameloise, or Le Bernadin are phoning it in. Enoteca Pinchiorri isn’t phoning it in, but the effort is so over the top it seems like a caricature.
I agree there probably aren’t any three star candidates in Boston, not that I truly understand what distinguishes a three star. I can think of quite a few that I think might earn one star. But again, my understanding is …fuzzy.
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In the Boston Globe article about this (sadly, there are no gift links), Tracy Chang of Pagu states “In Asia and Europe, I’ve seen one-star spots in basements and food stalls— accessible and humble. That model hasn’t appeared in the US yet. Will Boston’s local flavor, from mom-and-pops to Fenway franks, be evaluated with the same cultural nuance?”
I would giggle so hard if they gave a Bib Gourmand or star to Fenway’s Sausage Guy.
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Maybe “phoning it in” was the wrong general term. And I certainly didn’t mean to imply that all or even most 3-star places are less than stellar. I’ve visited one of those on your list, and had a really excellent meal there. I don’t have nearly enough sample size to come to any real conclusion, but what I was trying to say is that I’ve managed to have far deeper disappointments at some 3 star places than I have at any 2 star places. This is probably luck of the draw and of course I also went into the 3 star experiences with much greater expectations. (And spent way more money, which adds to the disappointment when half of the tasting menu misses the mark, or whatever.)
