An SF Chronicle article put a dish called rellena negro/ chilmole on my radar and I kept meaning to try it. I got my chance tonight when I noticed a new Yucatan place on Mission between 24th and 25th, Mi Yucatan. The menu is broader and cheaper than the slightly less new Aktun in Bernal Heights.
The rellena negro is black from charred chilies, and it is potent! Once I got beyond both a coughing and sneezing fit, I enjoyed the complex flavor. There are lots of chicken pieces and thick slices of a forcemeat containing meat and hard boiled eggs. It’s a meaty broth and it reminded me of Spanish soups that have random meats and sausages in them. It comes with thick handmade corn tortillas — they’re flavorful enough that I would guess they use fresh masa.
I also got some paunchos. The 5" discs are filled with black beans and loaded with toppings-- I wouldn’t recommend this for a take-out order, but the pieces tasted good.