Mexico City Trip Report December 2022

Just spent 4 glorious days in CDMX. Our first time. Not sure what took us so long, but I’m already looking forward to returning. I wont be able to come close to one of the greatest reports I’ve ever see really, by Mr Happy, but here goes something…

Part 1

Contramar - Fantastic start. Loved everything about this place. The room, the ambiance, the drinks, the service and especially the food. A happy place for the culinary tourist (not sure how many locals go here). As good as the famous tuna tostadas were, the Galician octopus app was equally as outstanding. But the signature red/green fish was the real star. Playful, flavor packed goodness. The fig tart was nice too, although much of the flavor came from the base, not so much the fig. If you don’t see tables available online just send them an email.


Tacos “El Betin” - First stop on a taco crawl in San Rafael. Great pastor, and even better Lengua. Just about the most tender Lengua I ever had. Popular with locals, and running into a food tour that specializes in local eats sort of confirms. I think.

Tacos El Güero (aka “Paisan”?) in San Rafael. Second stop on the food crawl was even better. Superb Suadero taco which is their speciality. Fatty, crispy, tender, and one of the best tacos we sampled during the 4 days. Great salsa as well. We were seemingly the only tourists there.

Suadero to me was like the beef version of carnitas. A brisket-like beef slow cooked and then braised in fat. Its one of a few items we encountered that’s native to CDMX.

Porcino - Last stop for a sit down gourmet taco tasting. Good. Could have been great with less salt content. Though I would come back for the “Barrigon” alone - grilled pork belly strips with tomatillos and onions. Ok craft beer.

Angelopolitano - For the picturesque Chile en Nogada. Our first ever. I was expecting it to come room temp but it still threw me off. I wasn’t expecting the fruits action. A few more and it’s a crazy fruit salad. But it grew on us and we enjoyed it. As opposed to the Champandongo, the Mexican lasagna, smothered with mole. Exciting initially, but became tiring and heavy. The mixed Chalupas were fine. Drinks were just ok. Main issue was lack of atmosphere since it was fairly empty on a Friday night. It was literally one couple per room, and we were done in under an hour. Overall a little disappointing.

El Turix - Outstanding Pibil tacos and Panuchos (fried tortillas stuffed with beans, topped with shredded chicken). Odd hole in the wall in the middle of glamorous Polanco. Construction workers dine here, ladies who lunch dine next door and across the street at Maque. We dined with both as we needed a rest by then as in typical hole in the wall fashion, no sits, tables or tablecloths at El Turix.

Maque - Very good concha, but can’t really compare to anything else in CDMX. We had it twice at both Condesa and Polanco locations. Both seem popular.

More to come…

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Beautiful photos and great reports! I still need to wrap up my trip report, still have one day left :joy:

That fish from Contramar looks amazing. I was thinking about getting that as my neighbors at the bar were raving about it but was flying solo. I did have a similar dish at chef Cámara’s Cala in SF with a group a few years ago that was quite good.

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Part 2

Los Cocuyos - Netflix, Uber drivers, random strangers said this is it, the taco Mecca. Who are we to argue. The verdict: Meh! Dry, uneventful Suadero, and a slightly better Compechano (Suadero mixed with chorizo I believe). Not sure what happened here.

Churrería El Moro (Centro) - Fresh tasting, just crispy enough, just sweet enough, perfect really for me. But my Churro obsessed wife didn’t like it as much for some reason. You need to purchase the chocolate or hot chocolate separately.

La Cocina de mi Mamá - Coyoacán Market. One of my favorite finds of the trip and one of my favorites dishes… “Veracruzanos” - tortillas filled with eggs, bathed in bean sauce, chorizo, onions, cheese and peppers. Absolutely loved it. It’s somewhat hidden in the back of the market. By the time we were done the place was packed with locals. They give you a bowl of fruits for free. Good stop before Frida’s house

Tostadas Coyoacán - Coyoacán market. A little confusing as to which is the real place and who’s the fake after the many warnings out there. If it’s the one with the yellow sign that says “original”, there was a cluster of about 5 of them. They desperately try to lure you in which is off-putting and just adds to the confusion. I had other lunch plans so just tried one Tinga tostada. Good size and tasty enough.

Amatista Tostadas - Coyoacan. Fancier tostadas. Another great find. Nice tuna and octopus tostadas. Not in the same league as Contramar but tasty nonetheless (and much cheaper). Enjoyed the Aztec soup. But the highlight was the Lengua tostada covered with a dark 7 chili sauce. A fiesta in your mouth. By the time we left, the place was packed including a group tour. Try to go when it opens

Taquería Orinoco ( Roma Norte ) - Longish line. Quite touristy, but one of the only notables open Sunday night. The tacos were fine. The chicharron was good but very messy. Enjoyed the pastor more.

La Casa de Toño - Another one of a few that’s open Sunday night. Enjoyed the hearty pozole (their specialty). Enfrijoladas a little bland. Best thing was “grandmas flan”. Good food in an American type chain setting. It’s popular. You’ll get a number and wait to be called or displayed on the screen.

Picnic Helado - Coyoacán. Really excellent gelato. Tried the Banana and chocololate.

Quintonil - Just a splendid experience from start to finish. Ordered the dining room tasting menu with wine matching. As I mentioned before, you can reserve the tasting menu when you reserve and pre-pay a hefty price, but not sure why anyone would do that since you can just prepay a fraction for the a la carte and change to the tasting menu.
Anyway, as for the dishes, not one dud, and nothing really above all. Just a beautiful harmonic flow of colors, textures, and umami. The “taco course” was particularly playful and flavor packed, and the superb desserts (three of them, including an extra birthday one) really completed the experience. Plenty of science, contemporary of course, but very Mexican still.




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Lastly, we took a half day markets and street food tour with Eat Like a Local.

We’ve been taking food tours all over the world (well, mainly Europe), and I used to run some myself in NYC prior to the pandemic. Simply put, this is an outstanding tour. It’s a little more expensive than other tours in CDMX but you do get what you pay for and then some. Mainly you get the benefit of a limit of 6 guests, which is the lowest I’ve seen outside of private tours. It’s a female only, CDMX born group that concentrates on responsible tourism including paying the vendors well

The focus is on Merced and Jamaica markets with some snacking in Condesa at the beginning and end. Just a brilliant array of street food including bugs, tacos, fruits, sweets, Huitlacoche, incredible corn in a cup, and a life altering green Chorizo taco that did not need any salsa or anything. About 20 tastings but never felt too full. Very good pace, and plenty of much needed rest. With a small group (us and another couple) it was like a local showing us around. Highly Recommend.

Thats it for me. Back to your regularly scheduled programming (Mr Happy)





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Green chorizo is neat; Whole Foods stores had an ersatz version a couple of years ago.

The stuff comes from Toluca, a nearby city in the state of Mexico.

Turns out the same green chorizo vendor in Merced market was featured on Eva Longoria’s Searching for Mexico on CNN

I guess I should finish writing up this report :joy:

For dinner I went to Botánico in Condesa, a restaurant from chef Alejandra Navarro, a Quintonil alum. It’s in a converted mansion with a large courtyard. I didn’t have a reservation but snagged a seat at the upstairs bar.

Started with a very good martini.

For food, I had the

Fish “tiradito” (80 gr.), and black garlic ponzu
Which was thin slices of raw fish (forgot to write down which fish), dressed with a savory and slightly acidic black garlic sauce.

Tuna tostada (2 pieces), avocado pure, salsa macha and yuzukosho
Quite good, a bit of a Japanese / Mexican fusion tostada perhaps with the yuzu kosho. Not quite as good as the tuna tostadas at Contramar.

Agnolotti, taleggio cheese and morels
Which was a nice and rich pasta dish with cheese stuffed agnolotti and morel mushrooms.

Botánico’s courtyard:

I thought this dinner was good but not quite great.

I was flying out the next day. It was an evening flight though so I had time for a couple more lunches in Condesa.

First, after striking out at trying to get a chilaquiles torta at popular torta stand La Esquina Del Chilaquil (they ran out early!), I had lunch #1 at Molino “El Pujol” where I got a squash tamale.

Super pretty presentation.

Less pretty when cut open :joy:

A very good tamale, very good masa which is made in-house.

And then another repeat visit for lunch #2, to Tacos Hola El Güero. Since I had already had the tamale from Molino El Pujol, I just had one taco, filled with chorizo con papa - pork sausage with potatoes in kind of a hash. The taquero offered cheese and guacamole, and I added both. Another very good taco from Tacos Hola. Much busier at lunchtime.

And that’s finally(!) a wrap on this trip! I feel like I barely scratched the surface of CDMX food after a week and a half.

Some lists in no particular order:

Most enjoyable “fine dining” restaurants for me this trip:

  • Contramar
  • Quintonil
  • Em
  • Pujol

And some of the most notable street food, taquerias, etc. for me this trip:

  • Birria Estilo Jalisco for the birria plate
  • Tacos Richard for the surtida taco
  • Taqueria La Hortaliza for the lengua taca
  • Jenni’s Quesadillas for their freshly griddled squash blossom quesadilla
  • Various tacos from Los Cocuyos in Centro
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