Mexico City Trip Report December 2022

I visited Mexico City for a little over a week in December for vacation. It was my first time in CDMX and also my first time in Mexico. I stayed in Roma Norte at the beginning of my trip and moved to nearby Condesa at the end of my trip.

I got in late on a Saturday due to some flight delays and a long immigration line. I checked into my hotel a little after midnight on Sunday and went looking for a place nearby open late for dinner. I ended up at Taqueria Orinoco, a chain from Monterrey, located on Avenida Álvaro Obregón which is a street in Roma Norte with many restaurants and bars. There was a small line outside on Saturday night/Sunday morning. You order at the counter and get a number.

I had 3 of the plain tacos, trompo, which is al pastor, res/beef, and chicharron/fried pork skin, which is apparently one of their specialities. You can get them on corn or flour tortillas or on a tostada. I got them on corn which might have been a mistake as probably flour would have been more appropriate for Northern style tacos? They were still very good though. My favorite was the chicharron, which had a good amount of meat attached to the fatty skin. It came with some avocado and peppers.

Salsa spread

Griddle with flour and corn tortillas

Al pastor trompo

Tacos - al pastor, res, chicharron. They came with some grilled onions, pineapple off the trompo, and also a few of their fried potatoes.

Agua fresca - jamaica/hibiscus with guava

More pics:


In my experience, some places do have flour tortillas and they’ll ask which you prefer. I notice Mexicans only go for corn by default. Unless you are in Oaxaca… no choice, only corn.


For a late lunch on a Sunday, I walked to Contramar in Roma Norte. Contramar is chef Gabriela Cámara’s flagship restaurant in CDMX that specializes in seafood. I live in San Francisco and had been to her SF restaurant - Cala - several times before it closed during the pandemic.

Contramar was packed on a Sunday afternoon. I eventually got a seat at the small bar after about half an hour without a reservation. I started with a Mezcal Jamaica cocktail, which was very nice, kind of like a mezcal spiked version of a Jamaica agua fresca. Jamaica / hibiscus tastes a bit like cranberry juice, and the mezcal gave it a bit of smokiness, as did the black salt rim.

Tomatillo and avocado salsa, limes, and marinated onions and chilis:

Tostadas de atún
Marinated tuna loin, crispy leeks, avocado & chipotle mayonnaise.
One of their signature dishes. Cala in SF had a similar dish but made with trout rather than tuna. These were great! Great combo of textures and flavors. Meaty tuna on top of a creamy flavored mayo on top of a crunchy tostada shell. Topped with some crispy oniony leek strips and some slices of avocado. Normally comes in a portion of 4, this is a half order.

Ceviche de erizo
Sea urchin ceviche. Fresh uni in a sauce that while citrusy didn’t overpower the urchin, with onion and green chili pepper.

Camarones al ajillo
My neighbors at the bar had this and it looked good, so I got a half order of this as well. Three large nicely cooked prawns with heads to suck the brains out of. I’m not sure what was in the sauce outside of garlic but it was garlicky and flavorful and had maybe some shrimp stock in it? It tasted shrimpy. It also had some garlic chips. It was served with some plain white rice which was good mixed in with some of the sauce. Delicious.

Tacos de esmedregal al pastor
Esmedregal fish “al pastor” rubbed in axiote adobo with pineapple onion & cilantro
An al pastor style fish taco. Very good. I looked up esmedregal - it’s also known as cobia. Very meaty fish. Marinated in al pastor style marinade and complete with the grilled pineapple chunks. Probably not carved off a trompo!

Mezcalita Naranja
Another mezcal cocktail, this one with orange juice and a chili rim.

Fig tart
Finally for dessert I had another signature dish, their fig tart. This was great. The tart filling was a bit like a creamy cheesecake, and it was topped with these beautiful fresh meaty fig slices. Just the right amount of sweetness.

All in it was about $85 USD before tip. Great meal! Very friendly service as well.

More pics:


After this late and large lunch I had a light dinner :pig: at a hamburger stand near my hotel - Hamburguesas a la Parrilla near the Jardín Pushkin. You order at the stand and get a number, and once it is called you are asked what toppings you want. I got a single cheeseburger with pineapple, with all of the toppings which included shredded lettuce, tomato, mustard, ketchup, onions, and some spicy chopped chilis. A very good burger. The patty had a nice crust and some smokiness from the grill - I believe they use charcoal. The pineapple was a nice addition and added some sweetness and juiciness.


Everything looks so delicious - thanks for posting!

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A couple of very well made cocktails at the Roma location of Licorería Limantour on Avenida Álvaro Obregón.

Pura Caña
Flor de Caña 12 años rum, amaro, amotillado sherry, Cocchi di Torino, Angostura bitter.

Mango Piña
Creyente Espadin Mezcal with coconut, rum, Lillet blanc, banana liqueur, fruit juice, fake lemon


I had some street food for lunch the next day.

First, a quesadilla from Jenni’s Quesadillas in Roma Norte. Her stand is at the intersection of Colima and Merida. The menu consisted of quesadillas, pambazos, which are a bit like tortas, and tlayocos, which are masa ovals stuffed with beans and topped with various toppings. I just had one quesadilla with squash blossoms / flor de calabaza. The tortilla is made from fresh blue corn masa and had a very good flavor and texture. Lots of squash blossoms and some Oaxaca string cheese. I added some of the green and red salsas from the stand. A delicious quesadilla, and quite juicy.

Then I had a shrimp tostada from the Mariscos Orizaba stand in the Juárez neighborhood which is just north of Roma Norte, on my way to see the Angel of Independence. Very good, a crispy tostada spread with (optional) mayonnaise, topped with some nicely cooked shrimp, cilantro, onions, avocado slices, and some sort of sauce or relish that was maybe vinegar based.


That first cocktail sounds so interesting! I would try that in a heartbeat.

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Beautiful photos!

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For dinner, I went to Maximo Bistrot in Roma Norte, a French/Mexican restaurant from chef Eduardo García.

Entrance, kind of hidden, on Avenida Álvaro Obregón:

I didn’t have a reservation but was able to get a seat at the lounge, where one can also order food. Interesting experience sitting on a couch and having dinner on a coffee table!

I had their tasting menu, which was $3400 MXN - about $170 in USD, a splurge. And also their beverage pairing for another $1650 MXN / $85 USD. YOLO. The beverage pairing was a mix of wines, beer, and mezcal.


Mezcal Negroni
Licor de betabel quemado, mezcal, Gin, Vermouth, Campari
A negroni but with mezcal instead of gin, and also apparently some beet liqueur.

Oyster, ham and caviar
First course(s):
Kind of a tart on a crispy shell and topped with salmon or trout roe. I forget what was inside the creamy filling but it was delicious.

And an oyster with a savory foam that was good.

Pacific scallops “tostada” and black truffle
This was great! Probably the dish of the night for me. This was a crispy tostada shell with head cheese, raw (I think) scallops, and topped with shavings of black truffle. With an avocado sauce on the side. Who knew head cheese and scallops would go together so well. And the truffle didn’t hurt. Yum.

Chicken wing stuffed with morels
One perfectly cooked and deboned chicken wing, stuffed with a filling that had morels in it. The green paste behind the wing was I believe yuzu kosho, bit of a Japanese twist. This came with some hoppy fizzy beer which was a nice pairing.

Ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese and white truffle
Didn’t write down notes on this but it was good.

Wood grilled Wagyu beef Rib Eye
A main course of meat and potatoes. With mushrooms marinated in cognac. Very buttery mashed potatoes, and the Wagyu beef was quite rich with a very nice reduced veal and onion sauce. Delicious, if perhaps not as interesting as some of the other courses.

Artisanal cheese assortment
Next, a cheese course before dessert. I didn’t write down what all of the cheeses were, one was a comté. The paste that accompanied them was made of guava I believe. This was accompanied by a French dessert wine that was a bit like Port.

Also a brioche like pastry that I neglected to take notes on.

Tangerine Sorbet
Great, really light and refreshing, not too sweet, lots of tangerine flavor.

Apple and fennel berliner
Another light dessert with a cake and some light whipped cream and an apple flavored sauce.

A very enjoyable meal.

More pics:



dining room:


You may only live once but you live exceedingly well! Thank you for documenting it for us so nicely, love reading your reports.


After dinner I tried some pulque for the first time at Pulque Los Insurgentes, a large multi level bar in Roma Norte on Avenida de los Insurgentes. It’s apparently very busy on weekends with several dance floors and DJ’s, but was very chill on a late weeknight. Pulque is a alcoholic fermented agave drink that has origins in pre-Columbian Mexico.

I had a pineapple flavored pulque first. I liked it. A little thick mouthfeel with pineapple flavor and a little chili mix on the rim. Didn’t really taste the alcohol. I got a small sized one (320ml), they also have a liter sized portion as well.

Next, I tried the plain pulque, which I didn’t really care for! It was like drinking a thickened slightly agave flavored water. I think next time I will stick to the flavored pulques.

top floor bar:



I had a light snack for lunch the next day at Panadería Rosetta in Roma Norte. This is the sister bakery to Italian-Mexican restaurant Rosetta (which is down the street) from chef Elena Reygadas. I had a guava roll, which was very good. Very flaky layered buttery crust that was a bit croissant-like, and a filling of guava paste and I think some cream cheese.

And a nice flat white with oat milk.

Very nice space, there’s a small bar area inside and a sunny patio/parklet outside.

English baked goods menu:

More pics:


For dinner I had a couple of al pastor tacos with cheese from a place near my hotel - Taquitos Frontera, which actually has two spots in Roma Norte that are within a few blocks of one another. I went to the one on Avenida Álvaro Obregón and Frontera. They hit the spot, quite juicy and cheesy.

Salsas, limes, and una cerveza:

Tacos - Pastor con Queso:




For lunch the next day, I went to Quintonil (the name is Spanish for a type of amaranth plant endemic to Mexico), a restaurant from chef Jorge Vallejo, an alum of the fine-dining restaurant Pujol. Reservations are made on Tock, and at $4,500 MXN / ~$233 USD (without drinks, including tax but before tip) was one of the priciest meals of my trip. I had the Kitchen Bar tasting menu. There was also the regular tasting menu available, as well as a la carte options.

Quintonil is in the upscale Polanco neighborhood aka the Beverly Hills of CDMX. I had a seat at the bar and it was fun to watch the action in the open kitchen.

I started with a cocktail, the
agua de quintonil
Mezcal espadín, quintonil, mandarina y limón
Which was a nice mezcalita like cocktail with I guess some herbaceous-ness from the quintonil.

I had another mezcalita like cocktail as well, the
solamente una vez
Mezcal espadín destilado en barro, licor de chile ancho, toronja, limón y orégano

The food:

Butternut squash and tomatoes salad, rice “horchata” and pumpkin seeds
A refreshing starter, with thin slices of a sweet butternut squash dressed with a champagne vinaigrette. The rice “horchata” foam was savory and sweet.

Spider crab in “pipián verde” with lime kaffir, Thai basil, blue corn tostadas
Next, a crab dish in a sauce with some Southeast Asian influence. The “tostadas” were more like tortilla chips. Delicious.

Red lobster from Baja California, butternut squash, charred geranium and “hoja santa” mojo
Very good. A bit of zing from the aguachile-like sauce that also had some squash in it to round it out. Perfectly cooked lobster.

Entomophagy festival
Next, some insects! Several small plates featuring insects, and a stack of warm tortillas with which to make tacos or eat alongside.

Charred avocado with “escamoles”
A tartare-like presentation of avocado chunks and escamoles, which are a type of ant larvae. The escamoles were kind of meaty and nutty and were a good mix with the fatty avocado. This was great.

grilled lacto fermented oyster mushrooms
Not sure if there were any bugs in this.

chicatana ants chorizo with santanero beans from Oaxaca
More escamoles embedded in a chorizo sausage, on top of a bean puree. Delicious.

“salsa de chile poblano” sauce with “jumiles”
Apparently this salsa had jumiles / stink bugs in it

grasshopper “chintextle" “tlayuda” with spring lettuce from Tepotzotlán
A tlayuda is like an Oaxacan pizza, this dish was more like a tostada. It had some grasshopper on top but it may have just been crushed into a powder.

This “Entomophagy festival” was the most memorable dish of the meal. I liked the avocado with escamoles the most.

Corn chawanmushi, “uchepos” foam, ikura and vanilla oil
A bit of Japanese/Mexican fusion? Chawanmushi is a Japanese steamed egg dish. This one was made with a dashi and corn which gave it some sweetness, as well as a foam that was reminiscent of tamales. There was also some ikura / salmon egg in there, and drops of fragrant vanilla oil were applied on top tableside. Delicious!

Striped bass in “adobo de chapulín”, cauliflower, grilled kale, celeriac dressing
The fish was smoked briefly and was perfectly cooked, meaty and a little smoky. The sauce covering the fish was a salsa verde with some crushed up grasshoppers. With a cauliflower puree and a salad. Very good.

Raw milk and shishito pepper “mole verde”, rib eye and spicy leaves
The last savory course before dessert. The sauce had a lot of pepper flavor, and the beef was not super tender but quite beefy. Good.

Cactus paddle sorbet
A nice palate cleanser.

Crème fraîche, passion fruit, caviar
A very luxurious first dessert with a generous amount of caviar. I believe there was some loquat in there as well. Delicious, sweet, salty and tangy.

Jerusalem artichoke, apple and buttermilk ice cream
Second dessert, of which I neglected to take notes on. I remember that it was good though.

Great meal. Lots of interesting flavors and fine dining takes on Mexican dishes with a little Asian flavor thrown in as well. And bugs!


I aspire to have a palate and attitude as adventurous and game as yours! Thanks as always for taking us along for the ride!


For dinner, after walking around and doing some sightseeing in Centro Histórico / historic center a bit, I had a few tacos at Taqueria Los Cocuyos, a taqueria open very late in Centro. I had a taco with suadero, a taco with longanisa, and a taco campechano which was a mix of beef and longanisa. All were very good. The longanisa one was a lot like chorizo. My favorite was probably the campechano with its mix of meats.

tacos - campechano, longanisa, suadero

salsas and limes

menu (the best $1 tacos I have ever had)


Then I walked over to Bósforo, a mezcal bar also in Centro. I had a few shots of mezcal from their large selection. The mezcals were served with slices of orange sprinkled with a chili powder. I also had an order of their mushroom gorditas which were fine.

mezcal (only one picture b/c they all look the same :slight_smile: )

free chili spiced peanuts

gorditas de setas adobadas, quelites y salsa macha con cebollas encurtidas

mezcal menu


not food

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Barrio Chino


I was in Coyoacán, a neighborhood south of Centro Histórico in CDMX, to visit the Frida Kahlo Museum (very cool place, definitely recommend a visit) and had some tostadas from Tostadas Coyoacán in the Mercado Coyoacán which is near the museum.

Aguachile Tostada
This was ok. There were a lot of shrimp and a bright and spicy green aguachile sauce, with red onion, cucumber, and some slices of avocado. The sauce was quite nice and zingy but I thought the shrimp were a little on the tough side.

Chicken Mole Tostada
I liked this tostada more, it was very good. It had some beans spread on the crispy tostada, then some room temperature shredded chicken in a red mole, and then some crema and some queso fresco or Cotija cheese.

Tostadas Coyoacán

Mercado Coyoacán

Frida’s house

After the museum, I walked around Coyoacán a bit and had a few al pastor tacos from the El Tizoncito branch there. El Tizoncito has claimed to have invented al pastor - the marinated pork roasted on a spinning spit/trompo, but this claim is much disputed. Anyway these were some good tacos but not too distinguishable from the others I had.

tacos al pastor

comes with some limes, tortilla chips, and beans



I was at Contramar a couple of years ago; thought it was darn good, too!
Since I rarely saw eggplant on the menu in Mexico – ok, rarely at standard issue taquerias – I chose the eggplant tostada. Excellent stuff, as was the octopus.
Had no idea about the fig tart, so next time. And you’re right, it was good service, although I’ve found service levels in Mexico to be quite good overall.

For ceviche, I’d also recommend Agua y Sal, in Polanco.

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Thanks for taking us along — fun read and delicious food!