I was surprised not to find more info on Marseille on the boards as it has become a very popular destination within France and somewhat of a foodie mecca. We visited in June.
The first night I just got some take out Couscous royale. There is a vibrant north african frit/veg/meat market about 10mins walk from the old port. I tried 3 different kinds of pita/naan like bread - with and without yeast. All were excellent. Cous cous came from Le Saf Saf - a tunisian restaurant. Simple place, small, large portions, authentic dishes. Cous cous itself was good and sauce flavorful. merguez were nice and spicy, chicken perhaps a tad tough but overall a good experience. The market is definitely worth a walk through.
Next night we had booked at REGAIN - on a street that seems it still has upward potential, shall we say. Restaurant has nice but simple interior courtyard. The menu is ‘surpise du chef’ but accommodated my veg/pescatarian partner. Interesting salad with tomatoes, pickled radish, to start., followed by grilled octopus, swordfish, nice fruit dessert. Some of the flavors and combination were a little ‘out there’ but overall the experience was fun and very reasonably priced.
COQUILLE near the Vieux Port - classic seafood restaurant. Excellent oysters, mussels, swordfish with very nice aubergine and diced tomatto/zucchini. Agreable house rosé. Definitely need to book at weekends. We tried to go for lunch on Sun without a booking and it was no go.
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