[Marple, Greater Manchester] Fisherman's Table

Even though it’s only on the other side of the borough, we may not have come across the restaurant without a casual mention on a travel forum. I’d been chatting with this guy about the restaurants in the Spanish resort and, as we were both from Greater Manchester, we started swapping the names of places we like at home. And what a “find” Fisherman’s Table has proved to be. Nice building (over 270 years old, the website says), lovely server and a nice short menu which changes every couple of months. It’s one of those places which is exactly how your neighbourhood restaurant should be – and it was worth the schlep battling through Stockport’s rush hour traffic on a very wet Wednesday evening.

The small Queenie scallops were one starter, in the French style as Coquilles St Jacques. Served on the half shell, in a creamy sauce and topped with mashed potato flavoured with a little cheese. Across the table, three big chunks of monkfish had been given a really crisp panko breadcrumb coating before being fried. They sat in a delicious shellfish bisque enhanced with a few shreds of pickled red cabbage. It all works really well.

A tuna steak came medium rare – I’m not a fan of overcooked tuna nor am I a fan of the fashionable “just seared” version. This was pretty much perfect for me. It’s how Spanish chefs cook it in the good seafood restaurants in the resort I mentioned earlier. And a Spanish theme is on the plate, in the form of a thick chorizo, tomato and chickpea “stew” – they could “big this up” and serve it as one of their non-seafood starters or mains. It’s too good to be just an accompaniment. It’s utterly delicious. Across the table, “catch of the day” was a whole sea bream which had been grilled, I think and was served with a caper butter sauce. Certainly another dish that was an absolutely bang-on bit of fish cooking. It came with a few green beans and asparagus spears. Most dishes come with a carb but these were the two that didn’t, so we ordered some chips to scoff alongside.

As often the case, desserts were OK but were not as good as the savoury courses. Housemade bread and butter pudding is a favourite of my companion in life and was declared “decent”. It comes with ice cream or custard. That’ll be custard then - obviously. The other pud was a small, very crisp tart, filled with a lemon cream and, also on the plate, blueberry compote and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

We finished with good espresso.

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We’ve been back - I think it’s going to be a firm favourite for the future

This really is exactly what a neighbourhood restaurant is all about – good food, with a changing menu, in nice surroundings and very pleasant staff. It’s not our neighbourhood though and we have a drive from the other side of the borough, so it’s a few months since we were last here. As suggested by the name, this is firmly a seafood restaurant,

So, it was scallops to start for one of us. King scallops from Shetland, perfectly cooked and seasoned with chilli and garlic and accompanied by steamed leeks. That was followed by pan fried hake. That always seems to be the most Spanish of fish and here it’s served with Romesco sauce, untraditionally having a twang from capers. Sugar snap peas contribute to the five a day.

I was in two minds over a starter. The mackerel with beetroot salad felt very North European but I opted a small tuna steak, cooked to medium rare (which is how I most enjoy it). That came with a fennel “slaw” and a spoonful or two of an indeterminate sauce. Fish pie as a main course. Lightly smoked white fish, king prawns and peas, in a creamy sauce, topped with potato. What’s not to like? Some greens beans and tenderstem broccoli provided colour and freshness. We shared a portion of fries.

We didn’t fancy dessert but coffee was fine. Nice evening.

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Sounds good, especially the scallops and leeks followed by hake.