Thanks to so many posters on this forum, I have a great idea of dining options for a 2 night stay in Lecce and 2 nights in Matera for an upcoming visit in early March (from Matera we have one overnight in Montecassino en route back to Rome). I wish we had multiples of that time to spend in the region, we are limited by school holiday schedules!
We will be transiting via a rental car between Lecce and Matera on a Monday. Unfortunately the much loved Cibo (which was my first choice) is closed then. I have a few recs from other posts/forums jotted down ( L’Antica Locanda in Noci; Antiche Mura in Polignano a Mare; Il Cortiletto in Spiezele) but wanted to ask --any that you remember as outstanding and/or in a place that you loved?
Appreciate any advice, thank you, and look forward to reporting back!
In Matera i really enjoyed Cucina per l’ Anima, the ravioli was good and both the grilled fresh vegetables and the tagliata were very good, though the latter was closer to medium rather than the requested medium rare. That last may be mostly my fault, though.
Also the made dishes at Uacciardidd Butchers Since 1946 were outstanding. Not fancy, just tasty and a bargain.
On edit, i may have misunderstood the question. My apologies if you were looking for places inbetween the two cities!
I’ve eaten at Il Cortiletto a few times and would not recommend very highly. However, my last visit was maybe ten years ago…
Do you like seafood? Sea urchin? You could stop at 2Mari in Savelletri, but you have to check opening days. Monday is pretty constricting in Italy as far as restaurants but there WILL be someplace good that is open.
If you are taking the route that passes near Bernalda, you might check out this place (ignore the furnishings and the fancy decor, and the “food court” description); they are open Monday lunch:
Here are some ideas for Matera, buried within: LA LOPA and TRATTORIA STANO stood out and I would happily return to either. STANO is just outside the sassi area and some say it is the oldest restaurant in Matera.
A lot of people like LATTERIA RIZZI in Matera. It now gets lots of tourists but its a good bet for lunch and they sell (or used to sell) excellent local products hard to find anywhere else.
(I don’t know why part of the responses show up in the post; I can’t edit them out); just click on the blue type to read my comments.
Would you even consider going into Taranto???
I’m following along as I’m thinking of a return to Puglia in October…
These are all great tips Yes, the post was aimed at finding places between the cities but always happy to receive other tips!
Erica1- thanks for the advice. We eat pretty much everything (some, but not all of us eat sea urchin).
We are very open on which route to take – its our first visit to the area & everything will be new to us. Including Taranto appears to be similar timing wise as most other options, so open to visiting there.
For other resto plans we have:
Blu Notte in Lecce (thanks to Ziggys blog/rec)
Sunday pm is still TBD, thinking about Il Vico del Gusto
Matera -
have narrowed it down to La Lopa, Stano and Soul Kitchen and will have to select 2 for dinner.
Will certainly report back & appreciate the insights!
I will be so eager to read your comments after you return!!!
CORE in Taranto has a good review by an Italian food/wine critic and appears to be open Monday lunch; it right near the castle and the bridge so you would not have to drive through the historic center. BUT I have not been there; Taranto (famous for its black mussels) is given short shrift by most foreign travelers… I’m just throwing out an option that I personally would investigate…
I would skip Soul Kitchen and instead prioritize Stano and La Lopa, in that order. That said, Erica has been to those places more recently than I have, so her feedback is fresher. (I do think maybe there’s only 6 months between our visits?)
Yes, and after I read what you wrote, I cancelled SOUL KITCHEN and went to LA LOPA and I was so happy that I made that choice; that restaurant is wonderful! There is a LOT of great eating in Matera, and also some places that are not very good.
I cant compare to La Lopa, but we were very happy with our meal at Soul Kitchen. The Podolica Ribeye in particular was one of the best pieces of meat I’ve had in Italy.
Just checked La Lopa, looks like the cinema place. I considered it. Dont remember why I skipped it. Maybe I thought at the time it was gimmicky.
I had your rec for SOUL KITCHEN but just before the date, changed to LA LOPA. The cinema is downstairs and you would not know it was there while dining… The trouble is, too many great places in that city but most people stay a maximum of about three days. I’d like to spend a week there…so many day trips nearby (Tursi, etc). but I think what dissuades people from spending more time is that using Matera as a base for day trips means driving in and out, which can be time consuming if you stay in the sassi. But as I write this, it’s coming to me: A week in Matera (??). Daytrips to Tursi, Craco, Pisticci, Senise, Altamura… Our hotel in the sassy had a free shuttle to the sheltered parking lot in the upper town and from there it was a snap to drive in and out…
I liked–but didn’t love–Soul Kitchen. I don’t eat a ton of red meat, so didn’t order the rib eye. I admit that I was a little put off by the pressure to tip at the end of the meal, i.e., “Here, madam, is where you can add the tip,” pointing to someplace on the bill.
Very true. Most people visit Matera as part of their first visit to Puglia, so wouldnt even consider it as a base. But there’s enough to do and see for at least a week.
Thanks all for the feedback and thoughts. List is being finalized as we speak (and limited at times by closures of restaurants - SOUL KITCHEN in Materia is open Mondays whereas other options are not!)
