This is the Midland Hotel’s casual restaurant. It’s been closed for refurbishment for a while and only reopened a few days back. That’s not why we decided to try it. Sole reason was its proximity to the Bridgewater Hall where we were going later.
It’s a relatively short menu – four starters and eight mains – all firmly in Modern British territory. Ham terrine is almost ubiquitous and often not very good. Much better here – not least from it not being fridge cold. Good flavour and texture, with a cider and parsley sauce and a couple of slices of sourdough. Across the table, a thick slice of swede had been baked with a drizzle of maple syrup. Very light, very soft, very nice. It sat on a celeriac puree and had a scattering of pistachio crumbs for contrast
For one main course, there was a generous portion of long cooked beef daube. No real need for a knife here, this fell apart just under the touch of a fork. And it was delicious, as was the mash that came with it. Grelot onions and tenderstem broccoli gave texture as well as helping your “five a day”, 36 day aged sirloin steak came cooked as requested and was really tasty. And a peppercorn sauce brought a retro tang to the plate. And, speaking of the plate, the steak comes unadorned with anything other than the sauce. So, at £32 plus any sides (that was a salad) they see you coming somewhat.
Coffee was good and hot. Service had been lovely – engaging and efficient.
