[Manchester, city centre] Hawksmoor

Hawksmoor is one of a comparatively rare breed of restaurants which just exudes professionalism. You just know everything is going to be as it should be – the food will taste great, there’ll be no untimely delays in orders being taken or food arriving and, wonder of wonders, the server has made notes so knows who is having which plate, without having to ask.

Starters are generally substantial but one of the lighter options is a beetroot and hazelnut salad, which incorporates a bit of leaf. Nice horseradish crème fraiche dressing. Definitely not light, are the two Fred Flintstone split bones, stuffed with bone marrow and caramelised onions. Full on unctuous and just right for dolloping on the thick slices of toast that come with it.

Whilst they have other things on the menu, you’ve really come here for the steak. That’ll be one fillet, served with dripping fries and a tomato salad. And one 55 day aged rump, with triple cooked proper chips and roasted mushrooms. Everything just tastes as you hoped it would – and there’s really nothing more to be said than that.

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You’ve been busy here, Sir Hartley! I will return this afternoon to review more of your comments. I happen to be in London currently and scheduled to dine tonight at Benares and have enjoyed a meal at La Trompette in Chiswick as well as other favorite places. I really liked Hawksmoor on a previous visit (Spitalfields) but Omnino for steak is now a personal favorite and I’ll be lunching there.

Thanks for all the reviews!

I’ve been meaning to eat at Trompette for some years. My trips to the London area are usually to visit the National Archives and I stay in Brentford which is the suburb adjacent to Chiswick. No doubt I’ll get there one of these trips. - also on the Chiswick list is Hedone.

“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold