Malaysia, Penang: Walking tour of Chowrasta Market with @klyeoh

Peter (@klyeoh) walked my wife and I through the Chowrasta Market the day after CNY. A beautiful sunny day to be out exploring, all the more special with one of the most knowledgeable food and culture historians of the local scene.

The harmonious blend of so many diverse cultures and food is nothing short of amazing. It was a privilege to try treats from many differenet countries, with local flair added.

Apom King was banging out fresh Apom. I was such a newb that I crushed the first one I tried to pick up, crushing the delicate sides. They showed me the proper method, pinch and pick up from the middle, voila!!

Light and crispy, these strongly brought back memories of the egg rolls my mom bought freshly made from street venders in Hong Kong.

In Singapore, most hawker stalls are enscounced in government hawker centers. Hawker stalls here are in individual buildings, or grouped under common ownership with a major owner.

We strolled, gawked and GRAZED from street to street, stall to stall. Peter giving us insights from his multi-decades ancestral foundation on the Malay Peninsula.

My wife is sweets-adversed, but really developed a taste for Chendul. Jelly noodles made from rice flour with pandan, shaved ice, palm sugar and coconut milk.

Within the same building, 4 or 5 stalls were dishing out all kinds of goodies. Grab a table and stools where you can and grub!

Char Kway Teow, with LARGE shrimp. Wok Hei up the Ying!!!

Hit up some more places, it was 10am and seating was getting scarce. We just walked through a few more famous joints, with Peter telling us the very interesting back stories of each.

We scored seats in Penang Road Famous Laksa. Joint was hopping!!! A few years ago, business was not so good. The son who inherited the restaurant was in financial difficulties. Miraculously, they were given Michellin recognition. The rest, as they say, is history!!!

We moved onto Tua Pui Curry Mee, a single stall with its own building.

Peter told us about their Nutmeg drink, a beverage not so common in the West. Seems that Nutmeg as a spice was a precious commodity, the flesh, not so much.

The ever industrious and frugal Asians concocted a beverage from juicing the nutmeg flesh. Quite refreshing and makes a good story.

We had the Curry Mee, of course. Curry, Pork Blood, Fried Pork Skin, Mint, Basil and more. Oh, and TWO types of noodles for texture, that’s how they roll.

Speaking of rolling…I was starting to roll from place to place. We walked around some more, and ooh and ahh’d at the temples and the secret tunnels and mysteries that abound from history.

I am fascinated by the Shophouses. Shops facing the street, with the owners living behind and above. Many of these shophouses are now full-on shops, with 4 or 5 rooms extending linearly waaaay back off the street. Most with open courtyards and skylights that let in the sunlight, many delightful nooks and crannies around every corner.

By then, it was high noon and in the 90°f and time to retreat to our hotel. We passed a gentleman selling Samosas and more, difficult to pass up. Woulda made a nice snack back in our room with a chilled Tiger Beer. Next time!!!

Thanks again for a most informative and delicious walk, Peter!! Hope you will excuse my inaccuracies, so much to see and experience!! Best walking tour, ever!

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I want to jump through my screen and eat the Char Kway Teow with shrimp!! I can almost taste the wok hei :yum:

The curry mee looks fantastic, too.

And what a treat to get to eat with such a knowledgable guide as @klyeoh!

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Wow! All looks wonderful!

@klyeoh Is that a reference to four cross-roads?

And now I am too! Lovely pics.

The color is the vibrant pink hue of fresh mace.

Samosas like you might never encounter in India! Fish! Egg! It reminds me of Sri Lankan versions of Indian Tamilian dishes with egg and seafood.

The many vadai in front look delicious too – I recognnize medu vada and dal vada, but now I’m curious if those also had non-vegetarian twists.

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Lucky you!

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Yes, it does! :grin:

Chowrasta Market was a very Indian market in the 19th-century, before the Chinese immigrants slowly took over the neighbourhood in the late-19th century, and the Indians moved closer to the busy port area, today known as Penang’s Little India.

But, even today, Chowrasta Market is known to the Chinese by its original name in Hokkien dialect: “Kelinga Bansan”, i.e. “The Indian Market”. “Kelinga” is the local term which the majority Hokkien-Chinese populace use to refer to Indians, most of whom are Tamils - the term was adapted from “Kalinga”.

Indians constitute about 20% of George Town’s population, and Tamils are probably 90% of that. Other Indians are mainly Punjabis, Bengalis, Gujeratis, Malayalees and Telugus.

An indication of the earlier Indian presence in the Chowrasta Market environs can be seen on the road names in that area: Tamil Lane, Kampung Malabar (where emigrants from the Malabar Coast settled), Sri Bahari Road (where the Biharis lived), etc.

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All this history is so so fascinating!!!

When I was hoovering up Shogun, Taipan (then all of Clavell) in my jr high years. I NEVER DREAMED that someday, I would be walking the same latitude and longitude as these fabled chararcters.

On a business trip in the 1990’s, I snuck onto the shipping dock area in Naha port, Okinawa. Sitting against a mooring post (sucking an Orion Beer-u), reading a tattered copy of Jack London short stories just as he was chronicling sailing into Tokyo Harbour in 1893. My heart almost EXPLODED with excitement!!

Never, Never dare dreamed I would share this adventure.

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One of the things I muse about is to trace and follow the diaspora. It’s vast and it’s fascinating.

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I found the book: Lords of the Rim a very good read. This was before the PRC ascended to world power status.

The Chinese diaspora at that time was worth more en total than the GDP of the mainland. Many changes in the world since.

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You’ll have to come back again soon, and cover other parts of George Town, e.g. like Pulau Tikus Market area, the epicentre of Penang’s Peranakan (Baba-Nyonya) culture, akin to Katong district in Singapore. The earliest settlers in Penang landed in Pulau Tikus back in 1786: the Malaccan Baba-Nyonya, the Siamese, the Burmese and the Portuguese-Eurasians from Phuket. They shape much of Penang’s character, and many of our dishes originate from Pulau Tikus, including the Penang asam laksa, with its shared heritage with Thai 𝘬𝘩𝘢𝘯𝘰𝘮 𝘤𝘩𝘪𝘯 𝘯𝘢𝘮 𝘺𝘢𝘢 and Burmese 𝘮𝘰𝘩𝘪𝘯𝘨𝘢 - all three dishes consist of rice noodles in a sour-spicy fish-based soup, accented by lemongrass, galangal and tamarind, festooned with a bouquet of fresh herbs. Penang’s fermented shrimp paste (“hae koh”), essential to the “asam laksa” dish, is the counterpart of Thai “kapi” and Burmese “nga pi”.

You also must visit Ayer Itam Market area, a huge Chinese township nestled in the foothills of Penang Hill. It’s got an atmospheric morning market which is a gold mine of good eats.

Nasi lemak (left) and nasi ulam (right)

The Kek Lok Si, Southeast Asia’s largest Buddhist temple, is an Ayer Itam landmark.

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I have the feeling the more I experience and learn about Malaysia, I more I need to KNOW!!

We will most definitely come back to beautiful Malaysia.

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Now pondering Malaysia before or after my Hong Kong trip this summer :thinking:

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Do you like durians? Penang is inundated by “durian tourists” from all over Malaysia and Singapore during its peak durian season mid-June to end-July. If you do come then, as all the different breeds of durians will be available.

If you don’t, come in mid- to end-July onwards, when most of the durian tourist hordes have left, and George Town seems “quieter”.

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I have to be in HK towards the end of July. But no to durian!

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Try and come during the George Town World Heritage Day celebrations on July 7, if you can. There will be cultural performances, etc.

The recently concluded Hindu Thaipusam festivities was one of Penang’s biggest annual festivals - 2 million visitors then.








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That plate of char koay teow was from Jin Kor, which is included in the MICHELIN Guide to Kuala Lumpur and Penang’s Bib Gourmand list for 2024 and now, 2025.

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Beautiful story of perseverance, Peter!! Just love hearing and seeing the success stories of these hard working folk.

I love your story that the owner has luxury autos that he never drives during the day, only in the anonymity of night. Don’t wanna be recognized and sully that hard earned REAL working man’s pedigree!!!

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Scottish chef-restaurateur and TV personality, Will Meyrick, was in Penang last month with his camera crew to film the next segment of his Street Food Nomad’s series - this time, it’s on Penang.
SBS Australia recently broadcasted his Street Food Nomad’s Kolkata series.

We did a walkabout of Penang’s bustling, historic Chowrasta Market and its environs. Started off with the legendary spring roll wrapper-maker.

We then proceeded to the youtiao (Chinese crullers) maker.

Michelin Bib Gourmand-listed Jin Kor Char Koay Teow was next, where Will got a taste of the famous Penang-style fried rice noodles, and the legendary shaved ice dessert from Penang Road Famous Teochew Cendol right next to it.
Char koay teow from Jin Kor.

Will Meyrick with Jin Kor.

The famous cendol stall right next to Jin Kor’s char koay teow stall.

Cendol - shaved ice dessert with pandan-scented rice noodles, stewed azuki beans, coconut milk and palm sugar.

Michelin Bib Gourmand-listed Penang Road Famous Asam Laksa was next.

Will was mobbed by Indonesian tourists as they recognized him - he was a judge in several seasons of Top Chef Indonesia.

Wantan noodles at Michelin-listed Tok Tok Mee.

HK-style wantan noodles - paler than the Malaysian version as it’s only dressed with oyster sauce, and comes with wantan shrimp dumplings.

Stewed mushrooms and chicken’s feet

For comparison’s sake, this is the Penang-style wantan noodles from Soon Yuen, also at Chowrasta Market area. Malaysian and Singaporean versions of wantan noodles come with dark- and light- soy sauce dressing, and includes “char siew” (Cantonese BBQ pork) and “choy sum” greens.

We were absolutely stuffed by the end of the walkabout & filming.

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Penang Road Famous Laksa is spotlighted in this week’s Michelin Guide online magazine:

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Great read Peter. Thanks!

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