We had planned on Kaleja in early November but they have decided to take a holiday. Any ideas for places in Malaga or nearby? Have looked at Jose Maria Garcia, Sollo and a few others.
We were in Malaga in 2015. One of the places we most enjoyed has closed. But they used to give you a free glass of Caldillo de Pintarroja, a soup made with a shark that is only found in the region. It used to be said that bars gave the soup to their patrons for free in order to get them to order more beer. Be that as it may, if you are in Malaga, be sure to try it.
We also thoroughly enjoyed Tapeo de Cervantes. Excellent food.
A place to avoid is Los Mellizos. It was close to our hotel, and I think the hotel recommended it. While we were ordering, a couple at the next table was paying, and arguing with the server about the bill. There were apparently items on the bill that they hadn’t ordered. When our bill came, the same thing happened. We had to fight with them to have the bill corrected.
We enjoyed the small Picasso museum. But the Cathedral was boring.
Sorry about Kaleja, but you have a nice alternative in Dani Carnero’s new informal restaurant, LA COSMO, although we love La Cosmo’s “big sister”, LA COSMOPOLITA, as do the professional critics. (1 Repsol sun). Carnero trained with Adrià and Berasategui and is widely considered the city’s top chef.
One of the newcomers open during the pandemic is CÁVALA, but I haven’t been. (1 Repsol sun and José Carlos Capel recommended). It won the “best restaurant opening of the year” award last year from Gurmé Málaga.
La Cosmo is on Calle Císter, and another fine, informal and well priced tapas bar nearby is UVEDOBLE TABERNA.
We’ve also had fine seafood dishes at EL REFECTORIUM CATEDRAL, which is hugely popular among the locals, who line up before 8:30 to grab a seat at the large bar. There are also low tables surrounding the bar but one needs to reserve in advance. There is a sister REFECTORIUM MALAGUETA, near the bullring and handy for those staying at the Gran Hotel Miramar.
As to nearby, yes, SOLLO in Benalmádena but also LOS MARINOS JOSE in Fuengirola, considered a “templo Del Mar”.
(1 Michelin star & 2 Repsol suns for the former and 2 Repsol suns for the latter). When my 2 favorite and dependable gastro critics, Maribona and Capel, plus Michelin, Repsol and Opinionated About Dining all recommend these 2, I pay attention!
For what it’s worth, Maribona has these favorites in Málaga capital:
La Cosmopolita
Kaleja
El Refectorium
José Carlos García
His favorites nearby:
Los Marinos José
Sollo
I will never return to El Tapeo de Cervantes, as I consider it a strictly tourist-centered restaurant. My experience:
No Spanish speakers or locals in sight, a heavy push to order their “vinazos” at a high price (we have some at home and can enjoy them there) then visible displeasure from the waiter with us when we declined, making a comment to the owner, then asking us what price we would consider paying for our wine, the owner eager for us to order too many dishes (but to his credit he did comp the last one that we were just too full to tackle) and finally…
the bill with a note written at the bottom in ENGLISH: “service is not included”
Our dishes were acceptable but not outstanding, but the room is uncomfortably cramped with only bar stool seating, and we felt that it now caters exclusively to the tourist crowd. Many TA reviews note the same.
For a very well chosen and mostly Andalusian wine list at moderate prices, I head to ARABOKA (formerly EBOKA).
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That was not our experience at all. But, of course, we were there 7 years ago. The owner had just turned another couple away because the place was full. There were two seats next to the kitchen door which he offered us, so we took them. We were not pressured to order anything.
Forgot to follow up but thanks to everyone for offering suggestions. We are trying Cavala as you order fish dishes a la carte. Will report back.
Nice choice
