A 4-day trip to Madrid demonstrated to me that this city is currently teeming with an exciting, dynamic restaurant scene. There are some great new options (Pabu, VelascoAbella, Emi) setting the tone alongside standbys that have been at it for anywhere from a few years to the better part of a decade (Eter, Taberna Verdejo, Gaytan). My limited amount of time barely enabled me to scratch the surface of a long running list that I hope to revisit soon. The cross section of spots I frequented were uniformly bound by outstanding sourcing, and exceptionally genuine, warm, engaging, and hospitable teams, something that was also matched throughout my daily interactions with fellow diners, merchants, and random people with whom I struck up conversations. Madrid may very well be the friendliest, chattiest city, and I’m sorry I can’t spend more time there! Here’s a quick recap:
VelascoAbella - Market-driven menu items are enmeshed with long-standing favorites from the former chef of Santceloni. His wife heads up a great front of house team. Standouts include octopus carpaccio with spring onions, grapefruit, ajo blanco, a terrific Iberian pork loin with red onion, mint, cilantro in a decadent reduction, and very delicious desserts. Everything here is quite solid, and the minimalist interior provides a comfortable backdrop. Definitely worth a visit.
Eter - In the increasingly popular southern part of the city is young, ambitious team (in and out of the kitchen), anchoring a sprawling series of around 12 plates for 90 euro that completely changes seasonally. While steeped in classic Spanish flavors and ingredients, they’re striving for something more cutting edge here. Some courses, such as a cold smoked tomato soup with tomato jelly and papadum, or the grilled bonito belly and bonito aguachile, work better than others, like the imbalanced melon, fregula, fish emulsion and cavier. It’s hard to quibble when more dishes than not work, and when a team is taking a swing at reinventing things every few months.
Gaytan - An exceptional meal from start to finish, my dining partner and I opted for their longest card, which comprises tastes of nearly everything from their a la carte menu. While the chef is indebted to the classics, his takes are quite modern and revisionist. Early, outstanding bites of a summer truffle brioche and carpaccio of Galician aged beef, along with a wild mackerel gilda with green tomato sorbet and “sphagetti,” set the tone for later stunners such as the snail and tripe capelletti, perfectly cooked pieces of low temperature hake and red mullet, and an incredible piece of suckling pig with a garlic sauce, its own reduction, and zucchini taglietelle. This restaurant has one Michelin star, but is cooking at a level that meets that of some 2 and 3 stars that I have dined in. Definitely a highlight of my trip, and worthy of a splurge meal.
Taberna Verdejo - Like VelascoAbella, this lovely market-driven restaurant has set aside a portion of its menu for classics, however, it is quite long on the seasonal section of ever-changing offerings. On my visit that included terrific Galician clams steamed with parsley, butter, garlic, and chili, a trio of local mushrooms with fried egg, and an exceptional grilled wild partridge in grape sauce. This is approachable, unfussy, homestyle Spanish cooking at its finest, and makes for a great visit if you’re looking for an inviting team in a comfortable, homey environment.
Emi - An excellent newcomer from a Madrid chef who has returned home after stints in kitchens that include Azurmendi, Noma and Atomix, Emi is set up in an intimate, tasting counter style with seating for around 12 guests, with a relaxed and very interactive team. While the seafood-forward sourcing is deeply rooted in Spain, the compositions reflect the chef’s range of experiences in working in New Nordic and modern Korean establishments. The procession of plates (around 12) is largely comprised of light bites that are ever-changing. I won’t spoil any surprises here, and would just say that if your dining tendencies lean towards a more modern approach that works with a range of global influences, give it a try before it becomes increasingly difficult to get in.
Pabu - A stunning meal of great consistency and excellence, Pabu is deeply indebted to vegetables of the moment, with a set menu that is ever-evolving around whatever is available that day. Consistently light, precise, and elegant, the chef’s experience working in the kitchen of L’arpege is evident in dishes such as an outstanding composition of tomatoes in different textures and temperatures, equally exceptional smoked eggplant with parsnip puree and buckwheat, corn and chanterelles with tarragon, the beurre blanc finish on a perfectly prepared poularde, and a vanilla souffle with salted caramel sauce to finish the meal. This is a truly terrific restaurant, and in addition to the aforementioned courses, has a wonderful cheese cart to boot. It will not disappoint.
While Gaytan and Pabu stood out as my favorites of the group, I could really recommend any of these restaurants to intrepid diners seeking some soulful cooking and unique dining experiences in Madrid. I would encourage readers to go with whatever among the lot looks to be the most interesting and suitable for your personal taste.
