TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE
This is an odd way to begin a restaurant commentary, but before I begin, I want to say that although this place is a personal favorite, I would not recommend it to most foreign visitors to Madrid. This is a small restaurant closely overseen by by Owner Chef Juan Lopez Bedmar who, after 25 years alone at the stove, now shares kitchen duties with another top chef, Nacho Trujillo.
Nothing escapes his eye, but that does not mean that he takes a lot of time explaining various menu options with all diners. There is an English-seaking staff who will do their best to explain, but this is more of restaurant to visit for diners who are pretty well versed in the seasonal foods of Spain.
I just read one review on TA that made me laugh:
<<<My wife and I were looking forward to an exciting 10-course tasting menu at the Guide Michelin restaurant La Tasquita de Enfrente, conveniently located near Gran Via in Madrid. The following dishes were served; 1 Tomatoes. 2 Potatoes. 3 Prawns. 4 prawns in soup. 5 Mushrooms. 6 Octopus. 7 Fried eggs. 8 Tuna. 9 Meatballs. 10 Panna cotta. This was the worst menu we have ever experienced. Not recommended!>>>
This guy was probably not wrong; many plates DO consist of, as an example from my last dinner, 2 red prawns. Nothing else, except flake salt. Now, if you are dining there and know nothing about prawns, you might feel just as this poor fellow did: “Two prawns at 17euro APIECE??? I can get two dozen prawns for that price at home!!!”
But if you know that these are very special prawns, from Garrucha, near Almeria, considered some of the finest in Europe, you might have a better appreciation for those two prawns on your plate. (by the way, one online vendor I just looked at charges 72 euro a kilo, plus shipping)
Here’s some opinionated commentary on those prawns:
https://euroweeklynews.com/2017/10/2…from-garrucha/
The same sentiment goes, for example, for the peas. If you do not know anything about the peas from Catalunya’s Maresme coast, north of Barcelona, whose season lasts but a couple of weeks beginning in late March, you might exclaim: “44 euro for a plate of peas!!!” And I could certainly understand this. But taste just one of those tear-shaped beauties, known as “green caviar,” or “the green pearl” and you might close your eyes and wonder if you’ve ever tasted such a wondrous vegetable. The Maresme coast even has a pea festival, in early April!
So you get the idea: TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE focuses on fine product that you will not see in many restaurants more than a few miles from their local orchards or seas. Not all of their dishes have so singular a focus; the menu changes daily and the night I was there, you could have chosen meatballs, or a terrine of pig ear, or hake cheeks (like the ones I photographed, raw, in the market earlier that day). Where the product is the star, the kitchen does very little manipulation is the way of sauces or anything else that would interfere with the purity of flavor. (The peas are cooked with a bit of jamon Iberico, but not much)
The dining room is small; there might be 12 tables and I was seated in a very nice one, in the rear corner of the space. The dining room is windowless, with almost every inch of the white walls being covered with art: Interesting art!! Art that you might want to hang on your own walls, with the majority being drawings. I’d liked to have had the room to myself just to look at them all!!
The proprietor, Sr. Bedmar was much warmer on this, my second visit, and he did explain the origin of the prawns and the peas, and helped me create dinner from the a la carte menu (they also offer a fairly reasonably priced tasting menu; when I say “reasonable,” I mean that it costs 100 euro, rather than the almost 200e charged for tasting menus by most of the top restaurants in the city. And he suggested that I order only a half portion for most of my dishes, so that I could sample more tastes.
Happily, Maribel has altered me that Sr. Bedmar has a hand now in a restaurant on Lanzarote that we hope to visit this month.
Although some of my comments may sound off-putting, I like this restaurant very much and hope to dine there again on my next Madrid visit. (I first read about this restaurant in the NYTimes article written by Mark Bittman probably twenty years ago. I always kept it in mind but many reviews were so off-putting (most of these written by foreigners perhaps unfamiliar with Spanish delicacies)…I took the plunge last year (2023) and it was the first place I booked on this more recent, 2024 visit. And it will probably be the first place I book if I am fortunate enough to return to Madrid within the next year.