We’ll unexpectedly be in Lyon for a 3 nights starting tomorrow (long story), staying in the 1st arrondissement of (Terreaux quarter). A young teen who eats (most) things will be with me. I’d greatly appreciate any recommendations for places we can likely get tables with little advance booking, as I am unfamiliar with Lyon. I’m not looking for Michelin stars on this visit, but solid local food with good atmosphere.
Our Airbnb host suggested Brasserie Georges for Sunday evening as something that would be open and enjoyable. Who doesn’t love a brasserie? However, is this a solid recommendation, or can we do better?
What about for additional dinner recommendations for tomorrow and Monday?
Contact Lucy vanel who runs a cooking school. Too bad I didn’t see this sooner. Lucy is a transplanted American - https://www.plumlyon.com
Lucy knows everywhere.
Her neighbourhood, Croix-Rousse, is a lovely Bohemian area to explore. Stay away from the traditional boiled fish dinner but the quenelles are a must-try (once!) it’s a pretty town
@uni - sorry for seeing this so late and I have to second @calam1ty suggestion of Plum Lyon, he have been twice and Lucy is just awesome!
Here are some quick thoughts off the top of my head:
–Prairial - 1 Michelin star and has a seafood bent the last time I checked
–Cafe Comptoir Abel - great Bouchon
–Cafe Des Federations - another VERY traditional Bouchon - good luck in consuming everything they feed you!
–La Bouteillerie - this is a wine shop that also serves food, the owner is a so fun and has great recommendations on new or emerging restaurants in Lyon, so try to make this a first night stop
–Daniel et Denise St. Jean - a little bit more refined bouchon
–Carré Royal - found this when looking for a place open on Sunday, one chef in the kitchen and one in the front of the house, great food and decent wine list
–Le Bœuf d’Argent - just wonderful, still thinking about the Foie Gras in a rasberry foam and I am not a foam guy.
The one Lyon bouchon we chose was the Daniel et Denise in the Croix-Rousse (we really enjoyed this neighborhood). A huge amount of very traditional food, but very memorable and charming atmosphere.
Hi @calam1ty - Actually no, and I did not know Lucy did a midnight class! We have always done the market class and made our lunch with her. Speaking of coincidence, when we did our Cheese tour with Jennifer from Paris by Mouth, we mentioned the Lyon cooking class and Jennfer lit up and said, “yes, Lucy is the best!” Such a small world…
Ironically, we did end up at Cafe Des Federations on Saturday evening prior to reading your post. It was just a few blocks from our apartment and suggested by our host. We had a very satisfying meal, and appreciated the cozy space where the staff made us feel right at home. The service was genuinely attentive, and the food satisfying. Everything we tried was flavorful and balanced. We started with a poached egg in red wine sauce, which was as a highlight. The pork cheek stew was incredibly tender, and cooked to perfection. Portions were more than generous, and the prices felt fair for the quality and quantity. We couldn’t resist the cheese platter, another highlight. Each dish had a distinct, traditional touch that made the whole experience feel genuinely Lyonnaise. What a great intro to this wonderful city.
Yesterday, we made our way up the hill to Equilibres Cafe for a light brunch, again at the suggestion of our host. The teen was requesting crepes and I just wanted an excellent cup of coffee. We were accommodated on both fronts. This place was very busy and popular, but we were seated after about a 30 minute wait. I guess we were low key enough, as we witnessed the host accommodate locals after a short wait, while telling obvious tourists the wait was 3 hours and suggesting alternate spots. I always find that obnoxious and distasteful but did enjoy the food and vibe.
For dinner last night we visited Brasserie Georges and really enjoyed the atmosphere. The food was all more than adequate, but what we really loved was the lively family atmosphere. It was perfect for a Sunday evening dinner. We enjoyed the beef tartare prepared table side as well the generous portion of mussels. We also had a charming neighbor at the next table (pictured). My teen laughed at how diners in the US would “crash out” as they put it, if this were to happen. Happily (for us), it is a normal state in France and Italy.
Thanks for your additional recommendations. We will take a look at what might be available his evening.
Thank you for this connection. I wish we had seen it sooner! However, I will save it for future reference. This visit was somewhat by accident and necessity, but we are absolutely blown away with Lyon. What a beautiful city with such a vibrant and thriving populace. Seeing families and groups in the streets and queuing for restaurants and cafes warms my heart. I miss energy like this. It makes me realize how far the US dining scene has strayed.
Lucky you! It’s been years since I got to visit Lyon, but I’d hazard a guess that Bernachon is worth a visit for exceptional, though admittedly splurgy, chocolates. Mentioning in case chocolate is your thing.
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BarneyGrubble
(Fan of Beethoven and Latina singers)
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I spent a weekend in Lyon a few decades ago, and went to Bernachon, which was good, but found better chocolate at a less fancy place down the street. It was a long time ago, so I don’t remember the name of the place.
but the quenelles are a must-try (once!) it’s a pretty town
