It’s street food theater that overwhelms the senses and follows few, if any, norms. All those who come hunting for piñatas tend to get swept up in the show — in the birria from Jalisco, pupusas from El Salvador, nieve from Oaxaca, guasanas from Michoacan.
He starts with a cement drill and uses it to mix a huge pot of dough. Then he grabs his churro gun, a 3-foot long metal contraption that comes from Guadalajara and looks just like a bazooka, and he shoots long, curly strands of churros straight into a fryer. They’re cooked within two minutes.