[London] French bistro fare at Leroy, Shoreditch

4-month-old Leroy is actually a reincarnation of one-time Michelin-starred and recently-defunct Ellory, owned by the same folks & helmed by the same head chef, Sam Kamienko. Apparently, the decision to move to Shoreditch (from Hackney) was for the low rent there.

“Leroy”, apparently, was the staff’s nickname for Ellory all the while. I blame my years in Oakland, California - but when my friends suggested Leroy for dinner last Monday, I thought we were having soul food: fried chicken with waffles, collard greens, ham hock with black-eyed peas, the works. I sure didn’t expect Leroy to be serving boudin noir to me - but they did and, boy, was it good!

What we had:
#1 ‘Christian Parra’ boudin noir, peas & little gem It also came with a fried egg with a molten centre which went superbly with the boudin noir. Rich, earthy flavours juxtaposed against the vinegarish tang of the salad dressing. Stuff of dreams.

#2 Pork and pigeon terrine One of the best terrines I’d had in recent times. Definitely on my must-order dish whenever I come back here again.


#3 Sardines a la plancha Perfectly-cooked here, well-seasoned and pan-fried fish.

#4 Octopus, potato and black olive Another dish done very well - the octopus was soft to the bite, complemented nicely by the perfectly-timed boiled potatoes.

#5 Vesuvio tomatoes, olive oil and marjoram Not a big fan of this dish - I’d had better renditions elsewhere.

#6 Quail on a skewer Best dish of the evening. Perfectly-timed grilling of the quail-meat, simple flavours from the light marinade.

I wonder how long before Leroy gets the Michelin-star which it had in its previous incarnation.

18 Phipp Street
London EC2, UK
Tel: +44207-739 4443
Opening hours:
Mon 6pm-12 midnight
Tue-Sat 12noon-2.30pm, 6pm-12 midnight
Closed on Sunday