Life Beyond Tacos? The Tortas, Delicious Soups, Outstanding Flautas and Breakfast Burritos at Angry Egret Dinette [Thoughts + Pics]

Nice @attran99 . :slight_smile: We enjoyed the new Mini Burritos as well. :slight_smile:

How spicy was the Chile Colorado Mini? I was going to order it but then the cashier mentioned that “it has a kick to it,” so I held off since it was so hot (near 100 degrees already). :sweat_smile:

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Update 5:

Congrats to Chef Wes Avila and team at Angry Egret Dinette for making it as a Finalist for the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant. Some recent visits, including the return of Chef Avila’s legendary Omakase (Chef’s Choice) Meals! :open_mouth:

Wild Caught Fish Tacos (Battered & Fried Local Rock Fish, Cabbage, Habanero Aioli, Pico de Gallo, Salsa Macha):

These newer Fish Tacos at Angry Egret Dinette are standout and certainly some of the best in the city. Chef Wes will rotate and get in whatever fresh seafood is looking good that week, and then proceeds to break down whole Fish to make these Fish Tacos each week. This week’s offering was a fresh, bright Rock Fish, nicely battered, still moist and flaky inside, nice balance of Housemade Salsas. :blush:

(Special) Steak Flauta (Flour Tortilla, Oaxacan Cheese, Fried Egg, Salsa Macha, Avocado Salsa, Cilantro, Onion):

Listed as a “Steak Flauta,” these turned out to be more like “Steak Quesadilla / Semi-Flautas” :sweat_smile: as they were seared on a flattop instead of being like deep-fried Flautas you might see at other local places around town. So there was no crunchiness, but the thinly sliced Steak, Salsa Macha, Oaxacan Cheese and Fried Egg all combined to make a decent dish.

Pork Belly Torta (Salsa Negra, Pico de Gallo, Avocado Tomatillo Salsa, and Cabbage):

This sounded amazing. Unfortunately, it was a bit of a miss. :frowning: The Pork Belly itself was really fatty (sometimes Pork Belly can be a nicer balance of fat & lean), and it was pan-seared, so the Pork Belly was more chewy and meaty. At that point, we would’ve rather seen it be a Pork Chop or Pork Loin Torta if they were merely searing it, as the Pork Belly Fat was tough and rubbery. Avoid.

Another Visit:

Wild Caught Fish Tacos (Battered & Fried Grouper Fish, Cabbage, Habanero Aioli, Pico de Gallo, Salsa Macha):

On this visit, Chef Wes just got in a few huge Grouper Fish, and they were fantastic in the Fish Tacos. A little more meaty, but still tender, than the previous visit’s Local Rock Fish, and so fresh and moist.

Breakfast Tacos (Papas with Housemade Chorizo, American Cheese, Arbol Salsa, Avocado Salsa, Pickled Red Onion on Flour Tortillas):

Breakfast Burritos seem to be the preferred choice in L.A., so it’s a nice change of pace when you see the rarer Breakfast Taco appear on a menu. Chef Avila’s Breakfast Taco is tasty. The Housemade Chorizo is nicely spiced and zesty. The one minor distraction is a personal preference, as they chose to use Flour Tortillas, which were pliant and thin, but it feels like they’d be better with Corn Tortillas.

The Atwater (Breakfast Burrito with Squash, Red Peppers, Home Fries, Scrambled Eggs, Swiss Cheese, Salsa China):

Consistently great! :blush: A beautiful combination with the Squash, Red Peppers giving a real vegetal note, the earthiness from the Home Fries, moist, juicy Scrambled Eggs (see above), then bound by some melty Swiss Cheese and Housemade Salsa China.

Pozole (Hominy, Marinsun Farms Heritage Pork Shoulder, Cabbage, Cilantro, Radish, Lime, and Oregano):

Chef Wes is making some outstanding Pozole right now (as tasty as our previous visits): A fantastic, deep, long-cooked Pork base, it’s rich, feisty, so flavorful, well-spiced and herbed, but not flaming hot (despite the crimson red color). Delicious!

(Special) Oxtail Burrito:

If you ever see Oxtail Burritos on the menu, order immediately. Just look at how luscious the Stewed Oxtails are (above)! :heart: It’s perfectly seasoned, savory, tender, mouthwateringly delicious! :heart: (@ipsedixit @BradFord @chienrouge @Sgee and all)

Another Visit:

(Special) Wild Caught Shrimp Tacos (Two Battered and Fried Shrimp Tacos, Cabbage, Habanero Aioli, Pico de Gallo, Salsa Macha on Flour Tortillas):

Every once in a while, Chef Avila will rotate in Wild Caught Shrimp Tacos instead of Fish. They are better than his Shrimp Tacos at Guerrilla Tacos back in the day. Nicely battered with a light crunchy exterior, the Shrimp are plump, meaty and tender. :slight_smile:

Oxtail Frites (Braised Oxtail, French Fries, Demi-Glace, Chives, Salsa Negra Aioli):

Currently, the most common offering for Oxtails at Angry Egret are Oxtail Frites, which sound great on paper, but in execution, the tender, beautiful Stewed Oxtails need a better vehicle to enjoy the stewed meat. French Fries are not the way. They are inherently oily, and when salted, they end up being a starchy, too salty background for the Oxtails (which are already seasoned and salted). :frowning:

It’s frustrating because the Stewed Oxtails themselves are fantastic. We ended up ordering a Side of Tortillas with Pico de Gallo:

(Hack) Oxtail Tacos:

The hacked Stewed Oxtail on their Flour Tortillas with some Pico de Gallo was instantly far more enjoyable and saved the Oxtails. :blush:

Tip: If you see Oxtail Frites on the menu, ask and see if they can serve it as a Burrito, or over Rice (or get a side of Tortillas); they are all superior to the default option.

Dinner Service - Another Visit:

For those that may not know, Dinner at Angry Egret Dinette is a completely different animal compared to Lunch. The menu is completely changed out, and it’s more of a relaxed, sit-down experience with servers taking your order at your table.

Campechana Tostada (Local Whelks Guisado, Seared Big Eye Tuna, Ponzu Vinaigrette, and Salsa Macha):

A gentle ocean breeze, fresh Big Eye Tuna slices, a nice combination of Japanese and Mexican cuisine influences.

Crab Tostada (Hamachi Tartare with Crab Salad, Avocado Salsa, Salsa China, and Salsa Negra):

Chef Wes is really tapping into fresh-caught Seafood these days, the Hamachi and Dungeness Crab Salad mix was excellent, sweet and bright, the triple Housemade Salsa combination created this amazing flavor confluence.

Surf Clam Aguachile (Serrano Aguachile with Passion Fruit):

Refreshing, cooling, plump bites of Surf Clam with a nice zing and heat and pleasing tropical notes from the Passion Fruit).

Lamb Birria (Lamb Shank with Onion, Cilantro, Arbol Salsa, and Tortillas):

Wonderful, tender Lamb Shank cooked down in a Birria-style Broth. You end up making fantastic Lamb Birria Tacos with the Tortillas provided. :blush:

Cauliflower Al Pastor and Grits (Roasted Cauliflower and Pencil Cob Grits and Salsa China):

This was a nice idea, but surprisingly it turned out to be more like a Side Dish (in terms of size). The Roasted Cauliflower’s marinade sort of evoked Al Pastor, but it was more tangy and zesty and there wasn’t as much roasting & caramelization that I was hoping for.

Sea Bass (Roasted Sea Bass with White Wine Butter Sauce, Roasted Potatoes, and Sauteed Pea Tendrils):

This was a well-executed Roasted Sea Bass in a more traditional Western style. The Sea Bass was moist and flavorful, but this didn’t really have much of the collaboration of cuisines we’re used to seeing from Chef Avila.

Another Dinner Visit:

Farmers Market Salad (Mixed Greens, Cara Cara Oranges, Sunflower Seeds, Key Lime, and Agave Vinaigrette):

A refreshing Salad to start the meal. Chef Wes has always shown an appreciation and mastery of drawing out flavors from Vegetables.

Wagyu Beef Tongue Tacos (Arbol Salsa, Handmade Corn Tortillas, Cilantro, Onions, and Lime):

A great combination of fatty, lean and meaty bites of American Wagyu Beef Tongue in Taco form. Excellent! :slight_smile:

Grilled Prawns (New Caledonia Prawns, Diabla Sauce, Pea Tendrils, Lime, and Flour Tortillas):

Massive flavor bomb! The Diabla Sauce has some nice heat, but it’s got a depth of smoky, earthy, fragrant Chilies and zest. The Shrimp were fresh and plump. Very good.

Mayan Octopus Tiradito (Blue Agave Vinaigrette, Salsa Negra and Salsa Seca):

One of the highlights of the meal! Tender, meaty bites of Octopus, the Blue Agave Vinaigrette and Salsa Seca and Salsa Negra blend really elevated each bite. :blush:

(Off-Menu) Oxtail & Carolina Gold Rice (Braised Oxtails over Carolina Gold Rice):

As mentioned before, sadly, the kitchen seems to be content serving their excellent Braised Oxtail with Fries these days (very strange - easy to prep perhaps). For Dinner, ask to see if they can serve it over the fantastic Carolina Gold Rice instead (they used to serve it over Rice originally when it debuted).

The result is the best way to enjoy Chef Avila’s outstanding Braised Oxtails. Another highlight of the evening! :heart:

Carne Asada Steak (16 oz Steak with Arbol Salsa, Handmade Tortillas and Grilled Scallion):

Perfectly cooked, medium rare Grilled Steak is served with Housemade Salsas and Housemade Tortillas, so you can make your own Carne Asada Tacos. This is a much higher quality version of Carne Asada Tacos that you normally get at various Taco stands / trucks around town. There were a few pieces that had gristle running through it, but otherwise the majority of the Grilled Steak was quite good and a fun way to build some real, lux Grilled Steak Tacos.

PEI Mussels Veracruzana (Carolina Gold Rice, Tomato Salsa, Tortillas):

Just cooked through Prince Edward Island Mussels cooked in a Veracruzana style. A nice pairing with the quality Carolina Gold Rice to ladle over the Mussel Broth. :slight_smile:

Cheesecake (New York-style Cheesecake with Passion Fruit Coulis):

Desserts have never been a strong suit at Chef Avila’s previous restaurants, but it’s no matter since you’re usually so stuffed from the excellent savory courses. :wink: This NY-style Cheesecake was… stodgy, clumpy, but it had good flavor. Not something we’d order again.

Another Dinner Visit:

Angry Egret has finally gotten their Beer & Wine license, so on this visit they debuted a menu of a few bottles of French White and Red Wines, and a variety of Craft Beers.

Stuffed Squash Blossoms (Ricotta Cheese Spread, Salsa China, and Heirloom Tomato Salsa):

A different execution than what we usually see locally (where the Squash Blossoms are stuffed with Cheese), here they are unstuffed, battered, fried and served atop a delicious Heirloom Tomato Salsa that was super bright, naturally sweet-tart and fresh.

Fried Artichokes (Whole Castroville’s Artichoke, Almond Salsa, Salsa Negra):

Nicely done. These were crunchy chunks of fresh Artichoke Hearts, and the Housemade Almond Salsa mixed with Salsa Negra made a nice nutty, gently smoky, creamy dip. :slight_smile:

(Off-Menu) Oxtail & Frioles (Braised Oxtail with Heirloom, Farmers Market Beans):

On this visit, they ran out of Carolina Gold Rice for Dinner, but they were happy to serve their fantastic Oxtail paired with a new batch of Frijoles they just made, from an Heirloom Bean they picked up at the local Farmers Market. These Heirloom Beans were incredible! :open_mouth: Creamy (no dairy), but toothsome, it almost had a texture similar to Lentils, but different. In addition, it might sound strange, but the Braised Oxtail and Heirloom Stewed Beans matched wonderfully. :heart:

Pan de Elote (Butter Baratte, Blueberries, Honey and Powdered Sugar):

There was one Dessert that Chef Wes has made from the early days that is an eye-opener: The Pan de Elote, which arrives in a cast-iron skillet, piping hot out of the oven. It’s like the most glorious Cornbread you’ve ever eaten, fragrant, smelling like Roasted Corn, and not overly sweet either. In fact, it’s got a great salty-sweet angle, the Blueberry, Honey notes complement each bite, and it should be their mainstay Dessert. Wonderful. :blush:

Omakase Dinner:

But the biggest cause for celebration might very well be the return of Chef Wes Avila’s Omakase Dinner. This was a wonderful dining option back in the Guerrilla Tacos days, where, by reserving ahead of time, you could arrange to have Chef Avila cook up a full Omakase (Chef’s Choice) Dinner, where he’d source great ingredients and cook up dishes that he felt were standout and of the moment. It was a great value and a lot of fun (always a surprise and delicious). But since he’s left and opened up Angry Egret Dinette that option has been gone, until now.

Monterey Bay Abalone, Fish Broth:

The opening bite featured Monterey Bay Abalone, nicely cooked, with a nice snappy, meaty, but pliant texture, fresh, and nicely infused with a Housemade Fish Broth that Chef Wes and team had been cooking since the morning. The bits of Stewed Potato gave this an almost Chowder-like feeling, but elevated and much lighter.

Tuna Aguachile, Ossetra Caviar, Salsa China:

This was pretty amazing. The Tuna Aguachile itself was so vibrant and fresh, but the use of Ossetra Caviar and the Housemade Salsa China somehow combined to make this inventive and interesting beyond expectations.

Savory Clams (Guajillo, Tomato Broth, Lemon):

The dishes seemed to get better and better as the night went on. Here we have what Chef Wes called the Savory Clams dish, which featured plump Clams in a Guajillo Tomato Broth that was bursting with layered flavors, brightened by Lemon. The slice of Toasted Bread was perfect to sop up all the Clam Broth. :heart:

Asparagus Stew (Line Caught Smoked Salmon, Coddled Egg) with Raw Asparagus Slivers (Pepita Salsa):

One of the most inventive dishes we’ve tried in years, initially you might be drawn to the bowl of pale green Asparagus Stew and think that you’re meant to drink that directly. You would be wrong. :sweat_smile:

Instead, our server directed us to take a sliver of the Raw Asparagus (seasoned with a Housemade Pepita Salsa) and dip the Raw Asparagus into the Asparagus Stew concoction, and enjoy it that way. On its own, the Asparagus Stew was super salty(!). But with the Raw Asparagus slivers, seasoned with Pepita Salsa, combined, it was perfectly salted / seasoned, and you got this delicious bite: Crunchy snap of the Raw Asparagus, reinforced by Asparagus Stew with bits of Line Caught Smoked Salmon. Interesting and delicious! :heart: (@BradFord @A5KOBE @ipsedixit and all)

Sweet Potato Taquito (Queso Fresco, Almond Chile, Chives):

This was a treat: Chef Wes decided to do a homage to his OG Guerrilla Tacos creation (and one of his signature items from the early days): The Sweet Potato Taco! :slight_smile: Except here, he’s reimagined it in Fried Taquito form, but it still has all the signature flavors from the early days that made it a hit: The Roasted Sweet Potatoes, Almond Chile, swapping in Queso Fresco this time, and Chives all via a crunchy Fried Taco shell. :slight_smile: A fun, nostalgic dish and still tasty.

Pescado Zarandeado (Red Snapper, Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice, Heirloom Beans, Handmade Tortillas):

This was the highlight of the dinner, bar none! :heart: Chef Wes cooked up a gorgeous, fresh Red Snapper in a Pescado Zarandeado-style, but with his own secret seasoning recipe. The Grilled Red Snapper meat was stunningly seasoned! I don’t know what marinade and spices were used, but it was outstanding. Nothing like a traditional Zarandeado from Sergio (Mariscos Chente) or Coni Seafood, but probably even better. There were layers of Chilies (not overly spicy, but full-flavored), it was perfectly grilled, savory, aromatic. Our entire group couldn’t stop eating this dish and within minutes it was all gone (as in, completely gone except for fish bones). :heart:

Enjoying it with the Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice, which is a beautiful American Rice staple, and the outstanding Heirloom Beans for the Frijoles side (or the Handmade Tortillas) and you had one of the best bites of 2022 so far! :heart: :blush: :heart: (@ipsedixit @BradFord @paranoidgarliclover @Mr_Happy and all.)

Pan de Elote, Tres Leches Style (Strawberry):

The final course was a Dessert, but they created a Pan de Elote (or a Mexican Cornbread) in a Tres Leches style, with Condensed Milk, Evaporated Milk, and Heavy Cream, infused with fresh local Farmers Market Strawberries.

The Strawberry flavors were stunning, so fragrant, and with the Tres Leches preparation, it bordered on an elevated Fruity Pebbles taste. :smiley: However, the core Pan de Elote was too dense (our server explained it was made slightly denser to prevent it from being dissolved by the Tres Leches & Strawberry infusion, but, in the end, it was too firm). And the portion was overly generous (it could feed 3 people, per serving!).

Overall, Angry Egret Dinette is still making a solid Breakfast and Lunch menu, with their Breakfast Burritos and Fish Tacos (using fresh, local Pacific Fish brought in weekly). Look for various Specials appearing throughout the week, such as their amazing Pozole, and always be on the lookout for Oxtail dishes, and ask for a swap to Rice, Beans or Tortillas, or Burrito form, if you only see Oxtail Frites.

Dinner has been a relaxed, enjoyable evening with quite a few standouts, but the best is getting Chef Wes Avila’s Omakase, where he creates the entire Dinner menu based on what’s fresh and most standout in the moment (note: You need to reserve that at least a week in advance). I’m still dreaming of that Pescado Zarandeado using a whole Grilled Red Snapper with Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice and Heirloom Beans.

Angry Egret Dinette
(in Mandarin Plaza)
970 N. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Tel: (213) 278-0987

https://www.aedinette.com/

Instagram for New Menu Updates:
https://www.instagram.com/angryegretdinette/

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Great report and happy for Wes that he has a full restaurant and hope he is enjoying his success. The oxtail burrito looks great. Nothing looks better than his tuna or hamachi tostadas from his truck days tho to this eater. Those were perfection. Always thought the whole fish from coni et al was overrated maybe it’s that I can’t stand Mayo and it is slathered in that for grilling. But I gotta tip my hat he’s really elevated his game to match new digs and budget and I’d love to try it. He’s always been one of the best chefs in town for me even when he had a truck. I admire what he does and want to go!

Happy Father’s Day to the dads out there enjoy something special with your family!

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Hi @chienrouge ,

Thanks! :slight_smile: Oh, Chef Wes does have the Hamachi or Tuna Tostada at Angry Egret every once in a while. We just kept missing it (certain visits, they were rotated off), but he still serves it every few weeks I think. :slight_smile:

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Plenty of good consolation prizes he’s got a delicious enhanced repertoire looking forward to checking it out.

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I got carpal tunnel syndrome in my index finger flicking to reach the end of the op. Pretty nice pictures though.

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Thanks for the article @ElsieDee ! That’s nice for our local mom & pop eateries to get mention from publications like the NY Times. :slight_smile:

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Thanks @ElsieDee and @Chowseeker1999

I really like chef Wes. Back from his days running his truck which came to our neighborhood, he was supremely proud of the food he served and tended to all the details - my first time seeing someone use tweezers and micro greens and on a taco. He would watch us carefully as we ate and being always delicious we would compliment snd thank him and feel fortunate he was in a taco truck nearby slinging tuna and hamachi tostadas and his other classics. It made me feel good as an eater to have someone that cared so much about my experience trying his food. It was always obvious he had bigger success ahead of him and this article is well deserved and seems rare in the world of pay to play reviews. I hope to check out his new restaurant angry egret soon.

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Wait there’s life beyond tacos ???
I didn’t get that memo ! :disappointed_relieved:

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There’s definitely life beyond beyond tacos but it keeps the vegetarian in my family happy.

For example this isn’t a bad context for it actually

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