Last Stop [Lisbon] Trip Report

[ninkat]

I’ve been here now about 24 hours, and I’m taking a break. Wow!

I arrived by bus (the helpful new friend in Lagos suggested this instead of the train that requires changing trains). Also, I had my first experience of Lisbon crossing the iconic Vasco De Gama Bridge. I did not realize that the bridge actually starts miles before the cable-stayed part that was recognizable to me. In fact, when I looked it up, the bridge spans over 17 km! I feel lucky that this was my entrance to the city. It is a memorable one, and thrilling. I recommend this bit of travel.

Also, I am extremely happy with my hotel. Well situated, and I have a top-floor room (elevator only goes to the 4th floor, but I am on the 5th, so I have a little balcony with a stunning river view, a skylight in the bathroom, and all of those sloped walls under the eaves.

It’s around the corner from what seems a legendary spot: Taberna da Rua das Flores where I went for dinner after my arrival last night. I went about 6:45, put my name on the list, and was told to come back about 7:30. It was perfect for me because I went back to my hotel and finished my unpacking, setting up of wifi, etc. The chef André Magalhães has apparently moved on from the restaurant, though the kitchen staff is still as he left it. Maybe not-so-much the waitstaff. Though nice enough, they were clearly somewhat out of their depths with the service, and there were small misses that I otherwise would not have expected. Still my meal was heaven.

I had scallops, served in their shells (delicious, as expected, but very normal). Then I had “cabbage satay.” This was my favorite dish of the night. The spicy/peanutty sauce was delicious and laced with crunchy bits of onion. I also ate the black pig secretos. The delicious, tender grilled meat was served on a bed of sauced, crunchy bits, maybe corn bread that had been toasted. Honestly, I mostly don’t know what I am eating here, but it is all delicious. I had a crème brulée for dessert that was also delicious. I did not see the wine list, just asked for a glass of white. They have a pretty big range of “by the glass” wines, as it turns out, so when he brought me an Albariño to try, I wanted something a bit more fuller bodied, fruit forward, not sweet, he brought me something else that I thought fantastic (also pictured).

This is a cash only restaurant, on the expensive side, but the food is well worth it! I hope to get back there again while I am here, though there are so many places I want to go to.

[linguafood (Natascha)]

You’re staying in the Bairro! We were in that nabe two years ago. Great locash & in walking distance to basically everything

Looking forward to more!

[Maribel]

I appears you’re staying the Chiado since your place is around the corner from the Taberna da Rua das Flores (not the Bairro Alto?)
Have you had pastéis de nata on the square at Mantegaria? Yum! There’s another pastéis place that I also love, Castro, at Rua Garret 38. The store window always makes me smile.

Sorry to hear that the chef of Taberna da Rua das Flores has moved on…I didn’t realize that…we had wonderful service but that was when he was in charge. I loved this place.

[linguafood (Natascha)]

@Maribel

I appears you’re staying the Chiado

Close 'nuff

[ninkat]

After an early run, a bit of coffee and excellent white melon for breakfast, I set off for a high point. Explored the Castelo de Sao George and surrounding area. (Strategy for seeing Lisbon: Take transportation up, and explore with walking down…I took the tram up to the Portas do Sol and stayed on foot from there through lunch and getting back to my hotel. It is a beautiful day, not too hot, and I have enjoyed it mightily so far.

I got hungry around 1:30 and decided to try one of the places @Ziggy had said required a reservation months in advance, and was unmissable: O Velho Eurico. When I got there, there was still a list for lunch, and though when I put my name on it I was told it could be over an hour, I think I waited less than half an hour. It was a chalkboard menu, and I had trouble choosing!

I started with the piglet empanada. It was in a rich gravy for dipping–I did not realize they had bread until I was leaving, as nobody at the tables near me had it, but next time…Still I was probably able to try more things because I wasn’t filling up on bread.

Next I had the piri piri shrimps. These were also very tasty, but not spicy at all…I thought “piri piri” would be spicy, so perhaps someone can tell me about this? The sauce was made, as far as I can tell, with the shells’ stock, tomatoes, olive oil, etc. Again, served with coriander/cilantro, which to me has been a basic revelation of this cooking.

With the shrimp I had the fantastic tomato watermelon salad. The watermelon had an unusual flavor/scent to it, and I don’t know what the cheese or the crumbly bits were, but the whole dish was very delicious.

I ate their take on an ice cream sandwich for dessert…Sooo good. Chocolate pieces as the “bread part” with crunchy bits on the outside of the vanilla ice cream. I thought maybe these were nuts, but I don’t think so. Too crunchy. The whole thing was dippable in the accompanying olive oil. Who came up with that? And with some flaked salt on top…It was really good.

Oh yeah, and a guy came around squirting his “water” gun in everyone’s mouth…It wasn’t “water” maybe more like “eau” de vie? So fun. It was like eating in a cave. They sat me so I could see outside the door into the sunny day. I definitely would like to go back. Not sure if dinner is different from lunch. Could I go and get a table without a reservation?

[ninkat]

I am staying at Casa do Barao. Fantastic. The young woman who checked me in told me the story: It was her grandfather’s house and when he died, her uncle inherited it and made it into a B&B. There are so many personal touches. My room, for example, has cute non-matching little bedside tables, obviously collected at the flea market or something like that. Big photographs of the renovation in the foyer when you enter.

[Maribel]

Your hotel has a great location in Chiado. I´ve read great reviews about it. You chose well.

[ninkat]

Yes, you were my guide to where to stay! Obrigada!

[PedroPero (PETER)]

Beauty hotel and a great location!. That Premium Suite with River View Terrace is stunning.

[ninkat]

Well, I’m in the smallest room with the smallest balcony, but it’s on the top floor, and I could not be happier!!!

[linguafood (Natascha)]

My pleasure, and so happy you’re happy

[linguafood (Natascha)]

Ooh! I would’ve been curious what the “pork secrets” are, TBH.

And yea, peri peri (or piri piri) should at the very least have a hint of heat. Weird.

[PedroPero (PETER)]

All the rooms look fantastic, I was just saying.

[ninkat]

“Secretos” is the cut of pork, like “pluma.” @Maribel just gave a great explanation of all of this someplace else on H.O. (Somewhere in Spain, I think!.) I will ask about the lack of heat in the piri piri, if I get back there. I have a bunch of places I still want to eat. Naturally.

[Maribel]

@linguafood,
This was my answer to erica1 about the different cuts of pork here in Spain.

"Presa” and “secreto” are common cuts here on restaurant menus that we have often. They’re both very tender cuts. They don’t really have a proper English translation, at least on menus. They’re just 2 gourmet cuts of pork.

“Presa ibérica” comes from the front part of the spine near the head, below the shoulder blade and is the juiciest. It has a combo of streaky and juicy fat. It’s sometimes translated as “shoulder steak”. It’s supposed to be more versatile.

“Secreto” is known as the “secret”, or the “hidden” part, because it was the best kept “secret” of the butcher, who would keep it for personal consumption.

It’s extracted from the skirt of the shoulder, the front part of the animal and is the cut with the greatest intramuscular fat. It’s the one we see most often on menus.
We had a creamy rice dish with “secreto” and mushrooms the other day.

Another cut of Iberian pork that you may see is the “Lagarto” (lizard).
No, not a reptile but instead an equally delicious cut of the pig that takes its name from its elongated, lizard-like shape.
It’s located along the spine, and is exclusively muscular.

To confuse matters more,
there’s also “Pluma” (feather), another cut that has less infiltrated fat than those above and comes from the back of the spine.
It’s has an intense red color and an elongated, triangular shape, which explains its name, “feather”.

And there’s “abanico”, which is the layer of meat that covers the ribs on the outside and has a thin trapezoid-shaped piece - so that when you hold it in your hand it can look like a fan - with a lot of fat streaks."

[linguafood (Natascha)]

We really enjoyed Ramiro and Prado (a @PedroPero rec). Seven (or Eleven) brunch is also great, and looks to be near you.

[Ziggy]

Very glad you made it to O Velho Eurico. Probably our top meal in Lisbon. Its a young crew with an easy going playful chef. He was a guest chef somewhere in Brooklyn not long after our visit.

Too bad about Tapisco. Hopefully its the only disappointment.

I was also about to mention Manteigaria by you. Found the Fábrica da Nata chain to be more consistent.

[erica1]

All I can say is that I have to take another trip to Lisbon soon…thank you! I ate at Rue das Flores and did NOT have the spectacular dishes that you had…a different chef and different menu, I suppose. Or poor ordering on my part! (I stayed at the Hotel Bairro Alto, which I understand has been renovated since I was there, quite a few years ago by now…)

[Monchique (Jean Ferran)]

There were probably gambas pil pil, not piri piri :o) A Spanish way to cook them in olive oil and garlic, with only a hint of chili, closer to the “al ajillo”. One of many recipes here: https://benlippett.substack.com/p/gambas-pil-pil

[ninkat]

Okay, so now I understand to look more carefully at the menu (though the shrimp dish did say “piri piri,” so maybe not my error in that case!

Tapisco may have been on me. I ordered their duck rice as my main, as I have this memory of how much I loved the dish when I had it in New York (when I wandered into Aldea when it had just opened knowing nothing of it, its chef, or Portuguese cooking). It wasn’t good. It wasn’t even really duck rice, had mostly pork as far as I could tell and shaved ham (also pork) on top. It was trying to be a little paella maybe, and was just burnt on the bottom. I’m not sure, but I think this was my problem with this restaurant in general: It didn’t know whether it wanted to be a Spanish or a Portuguese restaurant.

My first course was fine, but not really interesting: tuna tartar with avocado and a hint of wasabi. Fish was fresh, and avocado ripe and delicious. I had hopes for the rice dish (tonight I go to try it at O Frade so I am really hoping…).

I did not have dessert, but did have coffee, and coffee came with the smallest cookie I have ever seen. Even this cookie was bad, had no taste, dust. (I came back to my hotel and ate a couple of cookies from the jars they leave out, and this was completely delicious and satisfying.) Also, just looked at my pictures: I had some tomato bread also, and this also left a lot to be desired. Bread not crispy enough and way too much tomato on it, maybe no olive oil and garlic and salt either, hard to tell.