This was our eleventh visit to Northcote over the years and the first time we’ve come away thinking that not everything had been great. Now, to be fair, these were minor issues. But, when you’ve been visiting for nearly ten years and not previously had even minor issues, it sort of sticks in your mind a bit. Minor issues like waiting much longer than previously for menus to be proffered and the orders to be taken. Or the sommelier asking who was having which glass of wine – in fact, both were being drunk by my partner who had asked for one to be served with the starter and the second with the main course. Minor issues, indeed, but this wasn’t the Northcote that we love. The restaurant has condensed its menu offerings, so the dishes on the six course tasting menu or the four course “gourmet” menu are all taken from the main carte whereas, previously, those two set menus had their own distinct dishes. It made it much easier to just order from the carte and get to eat exactly what you want to eat.
Bread was quickly served. A Lancashire cheese roll and a slice of really good sourdough. This was another change from previous visits as there was no second (or even third) offerings of bread.
For one of us, there was quail to start. A cylinder of breast wrapped round a little long cooked meat. Mild in flavour, it was a light start to the meal, particularly so matched with very finely diced apple and a prune puree. That was followed by Cumbrian mutton which was, frankly, a miserly portion. Three bites and it was gone – leaving aside the accompaniments, that was over ten quid a bite. And, to be equally frank, it didn’t have the full flavour that you’d expect from mutton. Disappointing when the accompaniments are the best things you’re eating. These were carrot batons and a carrot puree. It must be a new development for Northcote (and unusual in “fine dining” places) but a bowl of wilted cabbage was served separately, rather than a finished plate being served.
On the other side of the table, there was small fillet of perfectly cooked seabass to start. That came in a “bouillabaisse” sauce that did seem to be the very essence of a good bouillabaisse. For texture contrast, a scattering of croutons of probably the sourdough mentioned earlier. That was followed by beef fillet, accurately cooked as requested. The menu describes this as “steak and chips” – their use of the inverted commas presumably to indicate you’re not actually going to get chips. Also on the plate, onions, a slice of fried eryngii (?) mushroom, a mushroom ketchup and a decent sauce. It all worked well. Also served was a bowl of crisp roast (or deep fried) spuds that were, presumably the inverted commas chips. Nice. And there were enough for both of us to share.
They use the inverted the commas on several of the menu descriptions. So a layered chocolate “cake”, actually wasn’t cake but layers of chocolate and cream shaped like cake. It was lovely and came enclosed in a sugar dome which was good fun to smash open. The other dessert was Flavours of Eccles Cake and, whilst it didn’t really taste of Eccles cake, it was nice enough in itself – pastry, grapes, etc.
We finished with coffee and really good petit fours back in the lounge. I think it might be fair to say that it had been pastry chef who had shone through in this meal.
