excerpts:
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But Asian American chefs in California today are challenging long-standing ideas about how the foods they grew up eating should look and taste — and how they should be valued.
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…there has also been a proliferation of regional expressions of Chinese food in recent years. Peppercorn- and chili-heavy Sichuan flavors dominate, but other regions are shining.
Dolan’s Uyghur Cuisine serves the underappreciated food of Xinjiang province in far western China: hearty manti dumplings and da pan ji , with ropy noodles and fat, roughly cut chunks of chicken. At Xiang Cuisine, a restaurant that opened a little more than a year ago in Monterey Park, the layered, rustic flavors of Hunan province are presented with braised meats, fiery dry pots, and fermented beans and radishes.
