LA Times: Fancy Chinese Food is here to stay...


But Asian American chefs in California today are challenging long-standing ideas about how the foods they grew up eating should look and taste — and how they should be valued.

…there has also been a proliferation of regional expressions of Chinese food in recent years. Peppercorn- and chili-heavy Sichuan flavors dominate, but other regions are shining.

Dolan’s Uyghur Cuisine serves the underappreciated food of Xinjiang province in far western China: hearty manti dumplings and da pan ji , with ropy noodles and fat, roughly cut chunks of chicken. At Xiang Cuisine, a restaurant that opened a little more than a year ago in Monterey Park, the layered, rustic flavors of Hunan province are presented with braised meats, fiery dry pots, and fermented beans and radishes.


Fancy Chinese food is in China everywhere. Where there are people with expense accounts, there is fancy Chinese food.

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Cool article. I can’t get over that 310 per person at benu. Has anyone been?