published today, June 20, 2019. in the New York Times -
https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/20/dining/banh-cuon-vietnamese-noodles.html
excerpt:
Though the restaurants in Little Saigon, run by an older generation of Vietnamese immigrants, don’t tend to veer from traditional fillings, the Phams, when they’re feeling more experimental, color the batter a pale yellow with a pinch of turmeric, or make vegetarian versions with a jackfruit filling, seasoned with soy instead of fish sauce. They’ve also tried gently steaming an egg in the noodle as it cooks, and serving it soft and runny.
Banh cuon, the delicate rice noodle steamed over cloth, is a specialty at Banh Cuon Luu Luyen, in the area of Orange County, Calif., known as Little Saigon. Credit: Coral Von Zumwalt for The New York Times
