One-month-old Frangipaani at the Republik in Plaza Damansara, looked like it came straight out of the film-set of a movie set during the British Raj period. It actually got me worried quite bit when we arrived at the restaurant for our Sunday lunch last weekend - over-emphasis on the interior decor to detract diners from the actual food on the plates? It was a neighbourhood eatery after all - albeit in the posh Damansara Heights suburb.
Turned out, I need not have been concerned: Frangipaani delivered where it counts - good, solid renditions of dishes spanning all corners of India. We started off with some lassi. The rose-cardamom and mango lassis were both creamy-rich, fragrant, and not cloyingly-sweet like those served in many Indian spots in KL. A good start.
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For starters, we ordered the Batata Vada Pav, described in the menu as the “Punjabi version of London’s Chip Butty, sprinkled with red “hill billy” Ghati Masala to taste”. I recognised this as a common but very tasty street food which I really enjoyed during my visits to Mumbai. Basically small, soft buns sandwiching delicious golden-fried potato dumplings, and slathered with sourish green chutney and sweet tamarind sauce. Mumbaikars grab a few of these on their way to or from work to munch as convenient, light snacks. Over here, Frangipaani’s batata vada pav preserved all the flavours and textures I remembered from my Mumbai sojourns.
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The Roasted Beetroot Raita, a glossy-pink concoction, was absolutely delicious, though I had expected chopped bits of beetroot in the raita, rather than just a beetroot-flavoured, smooth-textured yoghurt.
The mains:
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Goan Chicken Cafreal - the perfectly-cooked, green-hued chicken cafreal was absolutely delicious: moist baked chicken, gingery, full of aromatic spices.
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Keralan Mutton Stew - I loved this dish as much as the previous one. This was tender mutton chunks with long beans and carrot batons, in a coconut milk-enriched, well-spiced stew, intoxicatingly fragrant.
Accompaniments:
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Jeera Saffron Rice - cumin- and saffron-scented basmati rice.
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Choor Choor Paratha - these were flaky, layered, flatbreads, perfect for moping up the gravy from our plates.
Altogether , a most enjoyable lunch. Raring to come back and try the other dishes on its menu. Prices are pretty reasonable here, eventhough it’s in Damansara.
Address
Frangipaani
Mezzanine Floor, Republik @ Plaza Damansara
Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara
Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: +603-20110030
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 11am-3pm, 6.30pm-11pm, Mon 6.30pm-11pm