We dropped in on the 115-year-old Cantonese biscuit shop, ๐๐๐ป๐ด ๐ช๐ผ๐ป๐ด, for some local sweet pastries and hot beverages last Thursday. One of KL Chinatownโs oldest bakeries, ๐๐๐ป๐ด ๐ช๐ผ๐ป๐ด was founded in 1909 by Chan Weng, an immigrant from Guangdong. Today, the shop is run by his great-grandson, Melvin Chan.
I remembered my first time stepping into ๐๐๐ป๐ด ๐ช๐ผ๐ป๐ด was back in 1988. At that time, one could still come to KL Chinatown and have dim sum breakfast at ๐๐ฎ๐บ ๐๐๐ป ๐ง๐ฎ๐ถ, and lunch on Cantonese food at ๐ฌ๐ผ๐ผ๐ธ ๐ช๐ผ๐ผ ๐๐ถ๐ป. Sadly, both have gone the way of the dodo, as Chinatownโs old denizens have largely moved out of the neighbourhood or emigrated.
Very pleasant place where one can take a break from exploring the grungy streets of KLโs Chinatown, and rest oneโs legs in cool air-conditioned comfort. Also helps that the old Cantonese barista brews some of the best local coffee around.
The place exudes an authentic HK-style Cantonese atmosphere, down to the gaggle of Cantonese spoken by everyone in there, and the rude, indifferent old waitress (not the friendly server in the earlier pics).
Address
Fung Wong Biscuit
85, Jalan Sultan, Chinatown, 50000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Tel: +603-2072 8888
Opening hours: 8.30am to 10pm daily
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Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot, cooking and eating in northwest England)
2
Similar happened to Hoโs Bakery in Manchesterโs Chinatown. Closed, without notice, in 2021 after some 40 years. Their char sui buns were to die for. But their honey buns were to kill for. If I was in town during the day, Iโd always be coming home with both.
The last time I was here, my two KL-Cantonese friends told me about Fung Wong offering freshly-steamed dim sum, which they said was โpretty respectableโ for a Cantonese bakery, better-known for its baked goods.
So, I decided to give those a try when I was back in KL last week.
Steamed pork-prawn dumplings (โsiew maiโ). Freshly-prepared and served a la minute. Very good, but nothing which sets them above those offered at any other dim sum outlets in KL. Nowadays, most places seem to substitute prawn roe or crab roe for flying fish roe (โtobikoโ) as a topping for โsiew maiโ.
I think what makes this place special is its cool environment - bright and cheery. A perfect spot for a food-stop and rest whilst exploring KLโs rather grungy, dingy Chinatown.
Lots of traditional Cantonese-style pastries on sale, but the standards were nowhere as good as when I first had them back in the 1980s. The old bakers are all gone, bringing with them the old methods and the old flavors. The new bakers here are all young ones.
I rather enjoy sitting here and listen to the gaggle of Cantonese spoken all around me. It reminds me that Iโm not in Penang, or back home in Singapore anymore. Food-hunting does have its rewards in Kuala Lumpur.
9 Likes
Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot, cooking and eating in northwest England)
4
Probably my three favourite dim sum there, Peter. And Iโm envious of the baked goods - we used to have a really nice place in the local Chinatown but it closed about 18 months or so back.
