Nothing beats a traditional Cantonese breakfast at Loong Sifu Bamboo Noodle House on Jalan Lazat (“Jalan Lazat” is Malay for “Delicious Road”, and it’s actually a gazetted road name) in the suburb of Happy Gardens.
The street-side eatery is about 7 years old now, but it’s run by a very experienced wantan noodle owner-chef, Jeffrey Tan aka Loong Sifu (which is Cantonese for “Dragon-Master”) who’s been making bamboo wantan noodles since he was 18. And he’d just turned 56 last Wed, July 15.
Our breakfast spread this morning:
Wantan noodles - in Malaysia and Singapore, wantan noodles are usually served dressed in a soysauce-oyster sauce-pork lard dressing, topped with sliced “char siu” (Cantonese-style caramelised BBQ pork), and served with a bowl of clear soup containing wantan dumplings on the side. Totally a different food culture from Hong Kong, where wantan noodles are most often served in a subtly-flavoured, complex broth, prepared with much finesse.
And, unlike in Hong Kong where the wantan dumplings are filled with whole shrimps, marinated in chicken stock, and chopped leeks, the wantan dumplings here at Loong Sifu are filled with minced pork only. Totally delicious. I’m still of the opinion that KL-style wantan noodles trump all other types of wantan noodles anywhere in the world, and way better than other Malaysian regional equivalents: the Pontian-Johore and Singapore versions with chili paste dressing and floury (almost Hakka-like) noodles, the Malacca version which comes with spicy chili sauce as an add-on, the Penang version with chewy, toothsome noodles, etc.
Noodles topped with har-chi/shrimp roe (Chinese: 蝦子麵) - I love this to a fault, and the one prepared by Loong Sifu hits all the right spots.
Braised chicken feet and shitake mushrooms - these are traditional side-dishes which one can find in wantan noodle joints in Kuala Lumpur, and also pretty tasty here.
Overall, a very impressive set of offerings indeed from this very spartan-looking tin-roofed shack-like eatery.
Loong Sifu Bamboo Noodle House
4, Jalan Lazat, Taman Bukit Indah
58200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Opening hours: 7am to 2pm daily (closed every alternate Thursday)