[Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia] Chef Gugs' Thai supper club at Homm House No. 8

Met some of my KL foodie friends for a fab Thai dinner at the home of Piyanat Yowabut aka Chef Gugs, one of the founding chefs at David Thompsonโ€™s ๐—Ÿ๐—ผ๐—ป๐—ด ๐—–๐—ต๐—ถ๐—บ at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore.

Chef Gugsโ€™ reservations-only private supper club in Section 17 PJ is called ๐—›๐—ผ๐—บ๐—บ ๐—›๐—ผ๐˜‚๐˜€๐—ฒ ๐—ก๐—ผ. ๐Ÿด. Here, the Wizard of Isaan conjured up a magical spread of regional Thai dishes with 100% authenticity, unlike the โ€œMalaysian-isedโ€ fare one usually gets in most Thai restaurants in the Klang Valley.

Our dinner spread:

  1. We started with a trio of amuse bouche, all artisanal, using the freshest ingredients available from the markets on that very day, and mind-blowingly big on flavours: raw mango with ๐˜ฏ๐˜ข๐˜ฎ ๐˜ฑ๐˜ณ๐˜ช๐˜ฌ ๐˜ฑ๐˜ญ๐˜ข ๐˜ธ๐˜ข๐˜ข๐˜ฏ (spicy dip with palm sugar, shrimp paste, fish sauce, chopped chilies, shallots, dried shrimp, and dried chili flakes), ๐˜ฎ๐˜ช๐˜ฆ๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜จ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฉ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฐ๐˜ต (mangosteen with miang sauce), ๐˜ฎ๐˜ถ๐˜ฆ ๐˜บ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ฏ๐˜ข๐˜ฎ๐˜ญ๐˜ช๐˜ช๐˜ข๐˜ฑ (grilled pork belly with black olive paste).

  1. ๐˜’๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ฐ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ข๐˜บ๐˜ข๐˜ฎ ๐˜ฃ๐˜ฑ๐˜ถ๐˜ถ (seasoned rice with lump crabmeat, crispy egg-threads and cured quailโ€™s egg), served with pickled cucumbers.
    This deceptively plain-looking dish practically explodes in oneโ€™s mouth: the spicy-hot prik kee noo (Thai habaneros) gave a sharp stab of heat which cuts through the sweetness of the fresh crab meat.
    The crisp, golden fried egg-threads provided the textural crunch, whilst the slivers of pickled cucumbers provided little sweet-sour bursts of flavour within the rice salad.

  1. ๐˜—๐˜ญ๐˜ข ๐˜จ๐˜ถ๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ฃ๐˜ข๐˜ช ๐˜ญ๐˜ช๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜จ - salad of raw prawns, cured in the juice of calamansi limes, tossed with Melinjo leaves charred in prawn oil.
    The raw prawns were โ€œcookedโ€ by the calamansi lime juice, much like Hawaiian poke fish. But the addition of chilis and aromatic herbs elevated this dish to another level of sensory experience altogether. It had the typical Thai interplay of flavours: sweet, spicy, sour, all perfectly balanced.

  2. ๐˜—๐˜ญ๐˜ข ๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ฆ๐˜ฏ๐˜จ - deep-fried smoked fish.

  3. ๐˜’๐˜ฉ๐˜ถ๐˜ข ๐˜ฌ๐˜ญ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜จ๐˜ข๐˜ช - Southern Thai dry curry with minced chicken. This dish was devilishly spicy. As the dishes were all served communal-style: there were 6 of us in our party, divided into two tables and Chef Gugs served each group of three diners large sharing platters, I left most of the dry curry to my fellow diners.

  4. ๐˜“๐˜ฐ๐˜ฏ ๐˜ฏ๐˜ข๐˜ฆ๐˜ฎ - Thai cured pork sausage, simmered in coconut cream, with galangal and shallots. This was my favourite dish for the evening - the creamy gravy, redolent of galangal, sweet onions and coconut milk, was ambrosial: I simply could not stop eating.

  5. ๐˜”๐˜ถ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ฉ๐˜ฐ๐˜ถ๐˜ฏ๐˜จ - glossy, sweet, sticky Hokkien-style braised pork belly from Phuket, served with boiled eggs with molten centre. This dish was a favourite amongst my fellow diners - itโ€™s a Southern Thai dish, and a close cousin to Penangโ€™s โ€œtau yu bakโ€ dish. Since Penangโ€™s Hokkien merchants dominated the trade in Phuket back in the 19th-century onwards, I think itโ€™s actually tau yu bak, given a Thai label, and made sweeter to suit the Thai palate.

8) ๐˜’๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฎ ๐˜ฎ๐˜ฐ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ข๐˜ฆ๐˜ฏ๐˜จ - steamed sweet taro pudding, covered with a caramelized sugar coating, and topped with golden-fried shallots.

  1. ๐˜’๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฎ ๐˜ฃ๐˜ถ๐˜ฆ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜จ - Thai crisp-edged mini-crepes, topped with ๐˜ด๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜จ๐˜ฌ๐˜ข๐˜บ๐˜ข (Thai egg jam) and longan slices.

  2. Mangosteen ice-cream.

Weโ€™re requested to pair the mangosteen ice-cream with the crisp ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฎ ๐˜ฃ๐˜ถ๐˜ฆ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜จ mini-crepes - they worked beautifully together.

That was one good meal, and a total contrast to the much-localised Thai dinner I had the previous evening at Kompassion, that terrifically popular Thai restaurant which serves Thai food that looked Thai but actually tasted Chinese (90% of its clientele are KL Chinese-Malaysians).

Chef Gugsโ€™ one-man-show proves that 100% authentic Thai food does appeal to KLโ€™s more discerning diners.

Homm House No. 8
8, Jalan 17/4, 46400 Petaling Jaya, Malaysia
Mobile/WhatsApp: +60 16-789 5602
Operating times: By appointment only