[Kuala Lumpur] Dinner at Enfin by James Won

Enfin by James Won is one of the KL’s current most talked-about fine dining spots, and whose cuisine in based on French techniques, but using local Malaysian ingredients where possible.

  1. Amuse bouche - Japanese caviar, sea grapes, potato espuma and grilled leek.

  2. Ikura, ice plant, puffed quinoa, yolk in prawn oil, shrimp powder and chili. Best dish that evening, IMO.

  3. Scallop, caviar, cauliflower, curry tofu, black garlic emulsion.

  4. Handmade egg pasta, “see-hum” (marinated mud cockles), wasabi leaf, arugula and leon pesto, charred leek powder.

  5. Gold leaf, chicken liver, curry leaf and ginger-torch caramel, cumin, black and white chocolate.

  6. Giant garoupa poached in seaweed butter, scarlet prawns, purple brassica, tomato, pickled Bentong ginger, torch ginger, lobster bisque.

  7. Cheese platter, which included a Malaysian Brie from North Borneo (in the foreground)

  1. Beetroot, parmesan cheese mousse, raspberry, chocolate, charcoal and coconut, pandanus sponge.

  2. Break the bubble shell and mix the sugar shards with the parmesan cheese mousse.

Enfin by James Won is located in the heart of KL’s Golden Triangle financial district.

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Very colourful joyous cooking!

Interesting dish, a lot of dessert element with chicken liver. From the look, I will have thought it was a dessert! How do you like this dish?

How do you think of the cheese from Malaysia?

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The Malaysian brie - not really up to par yet, IMHO. But kudos to the fact that they even attempted. Kinarut Beach cheese is by an Aussie lady, Shelley Blew, made from the milk of local Friesian cows.

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Looks stunning, Peter. Simply stunning.

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Curious, does Malaysian cuisine includes a lot of fermented ingredients?

How was the dessert?? Looks wild!

Naf - no, not as much as Thai or Cambodian cuisines, or even Korean ones. The main flavouring components come from chillis, and pungent herbs like galangal, lemongrass, kaffir limes leaves, etc.

Belacan - fermented shrimp paste is one exception - it’s used in most spicy “rempah” mixes, sautéed in hot oil and used as a basis for curries.

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Salsailsa - the dessert was really prettier to look at than bowl-me-over tasty. I have a personal preference for desserts with some alcohol content - but that doesn’t seem to figure much in Malaysia where the local palate goes for very sweet and very rich (as in coconut-crème-rich) flavours.

Yeah, I’m not a huge dessert person. I’m intrigued by the Parmesan mousse/ beet combination which had potential, toe quite nice. Not sure about the additional aspects (raspberry, chocolate, coconut). I really don’t like the sickeningly sweet desserts as you describe.

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naf - I’m pretty fond of chicken liver, but did not quite enjoy this particular chicken liver dish which they’d playfully tried to present as a “crème caramel”-like dish. I’d expected the chocolate leaves to be unsweetened, but the chef was probably catering to the local Malaysians’ sweet tooth.