Jiangnan China 2026: Yangzhou

Jiangnan is the Land South of the Yangtze River. Shanghai may be the best known city here, but this area is way more than only Shanghai. Much, much more.

Touched down Nanjing International yesterday late afternoon, our DIDI rideshare whisked us to our Yangzhou hotel 2 hours later.

We were quite fatigued after our 24 hour journey ex SFO, and uncharacteristically stayed in for our 1st night in China.

In the morning, we had coffee and just some light nibbles from the hotel buffet, then set out to walk our new neighborhood.

Gentleman roasting fresh corn on the corner.

Very tempted by the Shao Bing (unleavened flatbread) freshly out of the drum oven.

The wife was steering us to a pin on her map.

Yangzhou chefs are renowned for their exquisite knife work. WENSI (Peony) TOFU is a test of a chef’s mastery. Tofu perfectly cut to the width of a human hair, blossoming into a beautiful flower when presented in a special soup.

We only ordered a single serving size, thus were not treated to the full effect. The craftsmanship was awesome nevertheless.

TOFU SKIN SLIVER NOODLE in Special House Sauce. Another example of the kitchen’s knife work.

YANGZHOU FRIED RICE better known as Yangchow Fried Rice on American menus.

LION’S HEAD MEATBALL Yangzhou Style.
Melt in your mouth soft tenderness, fresh hand chopped meats. Excellent.

SHRIMP ROE NOODLES
Shrimp Roe goodness infused the House Sauce, complemented the noodle’s chew for a perfect pairing.

CRYSTAL PORK TROTTER Pork Terrine with Vinegar
A regional classic.

FIVE DICED INGREDIENTS STEAMED BAO
So big, came in its own bamboo basket. Very tasty.

Looking forward to learning and eating more of Yangzhou and the Jiangnan region. Stay tuned.

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Another G_G trip for all of us to savor!! Can’t wait for more!

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Oh yes, Yi Yuan on Siwangting Road. A Michelin Select entrant and one of 13 Yangzhou restaurants listed in the Michelin Guide to Jiangsu 2025:

https://guide.michelin.com/en/jiang-su/yangzhou_1032329/restaurant/yi-yuan-siwangting-road

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@Google_Gourmet Are you planning to visit the 200-year-old Quyuan Teahouse (Changchun Road)?
Per Michelin Guide to Jiangsu 2025:


"Quyuan Teahouse (Changchun Road)
Inside Yangzhou State Guesthouse, 1 Changchun Road, Hanjiang, Yangzhou, China Mainland.

Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong visited the private residence of a salt trader in the 18C, naming it Quyuan , meaning “intriguing garden”. Nestled in lush greenery by Lake Shouxi, it is now a teahouse that is famous for its Huaiyang fare, especially the dim sum breakfast. Try the Yangzhou wonder duo – millefeuille lard cake and emerald shaomai – and the five-gem buns. Arrive early to beat the crowds, or be ready to queue."

https://guide.michelin.com/en/jiang-su/yangzhou_1032329/restaurant/quyuan-teahouse-changchun-road

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Family favorite! Curious how it might be different in its place of origin.

Lion’s head meatball looks light and delicious.

Thanks for bringing this teahouse to our attention. We may well walk the 21 minutes from our hotel tomorrow to Yum Cha at this institution Dim Sum breakfast is always a good idea when we are in China.

We had walked by another Quyuan this morning on our walkabout. Sister restaurant, perhaps?

Our friend is driving up from Nanjing to hang with us on Saturday, and we were thinking of making a reservation here.

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Yangzhou Fried Rice is most definitely a hometown homebred favorite.

We strolled and noshed through a two mile long eating street this evening, and many eateries were prominently offering this namesake speciality. 20¥, less than 3 bucks!

I enjoyed the rice this morning and thought it was very good. That said, I’ve rarely ordered Yangchow fried rice, so I don’t have much of a baseline for comparison.

The Lions head Meatball was indeed Light and Delicious!

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Beautiful crisp evening to Roam and Graze.

THE GRAND CANAL stretches from Beijing to Hangzhou. 1,100 miles of interlocking canals and rivers, The Canal is the world’s largest constructed waterway.

We had ferried the Suzhou portion last year, and were impressed by the transformation of the canal’s edge into a pleasant recreational area. Exercise contraptions abound, bike paths, clean plentiful facilities and serene beautiful scenery. Folks fishing, playing Mahjong, singing karaoke or just walking. Very nice.

After a half hour of healthy walking, time to scratch up some food!

A Walking and Eating Street stretching over two miles. Loaded with shops and eateries, ending mere steps from our hotel’s front door.

All sorts of interesting spots to investigate.

First time seeing live WOOD EAR FUNGUS. Very interesting.

A mysterious alleyway leading to a…..B&B!

We weren’t quite hungry enough for a full sit down dinner. The items on the picture board was enticing and the price was right.

I wanted some Tofu Fa, the wife ordered a couple of other bites at the counter.

XIAN BING
A beef stuffed pie, perfect size for a couple bites each.

TOFU FA with OSMANTHUS and HONEY GINGER SYRUP
Warm and satisfying on a brisk night.

PORK KIDNEY with PEPPERS
A must order, always. Very tender and flavorful.

PEPPERY LAMB SOUP
She knew I wanted the lamb. Very Lamb-y flavor, in the very best possible way.

Thus fortified, we continued our stroll back to our warm soft bed.

But first……

Can’t pass up the DRUNKEN SEAFOOD concession for some Siu Yeh (late night snack)

Back in our room.

Wife claims the crustaceans didn’t have much liquor flavor. Didn’t stop her from scarfing it all.

Looking forward to see what goodness our second day will bring.

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Are crabs the same as hairy crabs(大閘蟹)? All the food looks so delicious.

Fairly certain these were not, they were quite clean shaven. :slight_smile:

We’ll be eating good for the next 3 weeks. Will endeavor to gorge on the local specialties of the various areas we hit.

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I remembered having China-style lion’s head dumpling for the first time in Beijing back in 2000. It was unbelievably melt-in-the mouth tender, and so very juicy compared to the ones we had in Singapore at the time. Later, a HK friend who’s a chef told me that, whilst the meatballs in Singapore and Hong Kong consist of 80% lean meat and 20% fat, it was the reverse in China! :scream:

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image

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@honkman :joy:

I remember reading how Paul Bocuse mentioned that the recipe for his legendary mashed potatoes called for 1:1 ratio of butter to potatoes. But chefs who’d worked under him insisted that they used more butter than potatoes to achieve that rich, creamy taste & texture.

Ditto the famous mashed potatoes served at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon outlets worldwide. They, too, claim a 1:1 ratio of butter to potatoes. But a friend who worked as a chef in L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Hong Kong also said she used up to 70% butter to 30% potatoes!!

I guess fat equals flavor!

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Oh yes, and that’s why we love pork belly as one of the best cuts anywhere

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Not to forget there is also whole milk.

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I have a recipe that is also very tender, besides the fat, a maximum of stock is to add slowly to the meat during the mixing process by hand.

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QU YUAN CHA SHE (Tea House)

Thank you Peter (@klyeoh) for bringing this Teahouse to the top of our Dim Sum List.

A unique dining experience. Individual tea houses (>10), each in a dedicated lush green setting. Streaming water, pavilions and towering trees. A serene landscape for a breakfast worthy of royalty.

EMERALD SIU MAI
A Hangzhou Specialty. Green Vegetable filling in a hand rolled wrapper. Sweet and Savory at the same time.

CRAB ROE XIU LUNG BAU
Bursting with crab juice and essence. Our first XLB’s of this trip. Surely won’t be the last.

SESAME SEED PASTRY
Very delicate fragile morsel. I couldn’t pick up with chopsticks without shattering the delicious crust.

WON-TON SHRIMP ROE BROTH

STUFFED YUAN
Mochi stuffed with Shepard’s Purse and Pine Nuts

Most of the Dim Sum items may be ordered in smaller individual servings. Allows us to sample more of the menu comfortably.

The House MUST HAVE’s:

  • MILLE FEUILLE LARD CAKE aka THOUSAND LAYER OIL CAKE
  • FIVE GEM BAO
  • HANGZHOU SIU MAI

The service was observant and gracious, yet unobtrusive. The food and atmosphere was very conducive to a relaxing dining experience.

The famous two hour queue was starting to form when we left our personal tea house at 8am.

Strolled the grounds to burn off some calories in preparation for lunch. Admired the chef army working their magic in the vast kitchen building.

The grounds and gardens were quite Japan-esque. A wonderful morning’s respite in Hangzhou.

https://guide.michelin.com/en/jiang-su/yangzhou_1032329/restaurant/quyuan-teahouse-changchun-road

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Wow, these looked delicious. In fact, everything in there looked absolutely spectacular!

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Looks absolutely amazing. What sort of cost for the dim sum? In the UK that would set you back by a fair amount!

¥137 (yuan) for the dim sum breakfast at the Michelin teahouse #2. ¥170 for Michelin #1 above.

Reference: 1 USD = 6.9¥

1 GPB = 9.12 ¥