Japan (Spring 2025): KYOTO

IZAKAYA are casual drinking establishments, pubs with drinks and good eats. Often with loud boisterous fellow diners.

The staff (ENTIRE STAFF) always enthusiastically BELT out IRASSHAIMASE the moment you push past the curtain. Izakaya are an immersive experience. Smoke from the Yakitori grill, constant shouting from servers to the bar, the happy din from the crowd as the night progresses and the Sake, Beer and Hi-balls kick in.

We staked out our choice counter spots at 6:30 pm, mere steps ahead of the thirsty blue suit and briefcased regulars.

We were presented with the Specials Board and a comprehensive Izakaya menu, all in Japanese.

1 of 7 pages.

We immediately ordered beer and sake. (Always helps to break the ice)

First plate of Hamachi and Scallops was pristine and beautifully, simply presented. Real WASABI!!!

I’d been jonsing for Karaage, Fried Chicken Bites. We hit the Fried Dishes page rather hard.

NANKOTSU (Chicken “soft bone”)

Crunchy cartilage from the sternum or knee joint.

BONJIRI (Chicken Tail)

Wife’s FAVORITE part of the bird.

OCTOPUS KARAAGE

We’re in an Izakaya. More Sake, Kudasai!!

HOUSE SPECIAL SALAD

Prosciutto, Shirasu (tiny fish), Yaimaimo (sticky yam), Kombu, Lettuce, Tomato, Cucumber with a creamy Sesame-y dressing. Excellent!!!

DEEP FRIED GYOZA

First Gyoza of the trip. Wanted the pan fried Chicken Wing Gyoza, which were 86’d. These were ok.

Shoulda stopped at this juncture. No….we HAD to have:

ONIGIRI

Nori wrapped Rice Balls. One Salmon, the second Saba.

SHISHITO PEPPER

YAKI UDON

Stir fried Udon Noodles. The straw that broke the camel’s back. We were bad Gaijin, could not finish the plate. Bad form.

The initially reticent server and the rest warmed up to us as the evening progressed. She walked us to the door to wave us farewell. I always appreciate that friendly gesture.

We WILL be back!

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I didn’t know that izakayas serve sushi. This kitchen seems well-versed in many types of cookery!

I think many Izakaya will have at least basic sashimi. Don’t recall seeing much sushi (rice base), eg, nigiri, maki, chirashi … in any izakaya.

Last night’s was a small joint with only 7 counter seats and 6 tatami tables. For a small place, it did offer a good range of cookery. A few tables were having Shabu Shabu!! (Hot pot)

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Izakayas focus on sashimi, with many specializing in one type or another, season by season and competing on freshness. Sashimi requires less training and most kitchens are well versed in how to cut fish properly. Sushi requires years of training and so most restaurants do not attempt it, leaving it to the specialisty shops.

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Another great post! Google translate is a life saver for Izakaya. Back when we first started going to Japan, it was difficult because they are often busy and can’t or don’t have time to explain the menu in detail (understandable). Sometimes we would just give amount and ask them to pick the dishes but not all wanted to do that either. Now it’s much easier to operate without slowing down their service.

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Lovely Kyoto day in the mid-70’s°. Wife wanted to do the river rafting down the Oi River, would have been a cool way to enjoy the water and some scenery.

I somehow convinced her to just revisit the Kodaji Bamboon Forest area adjacent and enjoy the scenery from the riverbank.

The Bamboo Forest was lush and awesome as usual, though the mobs of us tourists detracted quite a bit from the tranquil serenity we had enjoyed before.

Lunch, I wanted Tempura and she wanted tofu. Matsugae Tofu Restaurant fit the bill. Amazingly, no wait at noon, we were escorted to a perfect shaded courtyard table.

We both ordered and shared sets.

3 KINDS of OBANZAI (Kyoto Style Dishes)

MONAKA: a take on a traditional confection, with Mochi sandwiched between crisp rice flour wafers.

YUBA with YUZU PEANUT dip

ASSORTED TEMPURA

  • the Yuba Roll with Prawns and Vegetables was especially tasty.

TEOKE TOFU (Regular & Green Tea Tofu)

TOFU SKIN with STARCHY SAUCE on RICE

BEAN SOMEN NOODLES with POACHED BREAM

An enjoyable lunch in a relaxed comfortable setting. Loved the presentation and variety, especially the local specialties.

A Roasted Tea Cone, then back to the hotel to rest up for dinner. Ramen or Tempura tonight.

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This is basically the restaurant of my dreams.

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Saving this place for a future lunch in Kyoto. A similar tofu focused excellent lunch spot in nearby Nara is Kondou (kondou-touhu.co.jp). A beautiful setting in an old house . They serving amazing lunch courses with 12-14 bites.

How’s the green tofu?

Has anyone tried Seigen-in at Ryoan-ji or Okutan? Both tofu/ veggie focused restaurants we wanted to go but didn’t.

The green tofu was just ok to me, I prefer my tofu cooked. Or as Doufa, with a syrup or topping.

We had been to Toyouke Chaya, an old time Kyoto tofu vegetarian restaurant in 2016. Glad to have tried and appreciated the experience, no rush to repeat.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/K3g8zzszzBKEx2Yi7?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

Look at those menu prices!!!

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