I love French restaurants. We have not had a really good one in Westchester since Buffet de la Gare closed. By old fashioned I mean duck on the bone, coq au vin, etc. Last night we had dinner at one such place, but in Queens. Duck a l’orange – ½ duck on the bone, fat perfectly rendered out, sauce not too sweet. It was perfect. I single that dish out because, well, it’s a favorite of mine and you can’t get it at French places up here anymore. The duck is usually the breast and maybe a confit leg. The owners were welcoming. The Chef/owner was talking to everyone like family. The place has been there for 38 years.
I get modern, but there is something to be said for the old world charms of a classic. I know we have La Cremalliere and La Panetiere but try to get coq au vin or ½ roast duck a l’orange on the bone there. If anyone knows a classic in Westchester or CT – please tell me!!
Thanks for the step in the right direction. Coq au Vin on the menu - alas no duck on the bone!! But that’s good too!
Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot, cooking and eating in northwest England)
4
We visit France every year or so. It’s a long while since I’ve seen any of the “classic” dishes on a menu - by classic, I mean the sort of dishes that foreigners instinctively think of as “French”, like coq au vin, boeuf en daube, etc.
Well then I would definitely be a tourist but that’s ok by me.Growing up in NYC in the late 60’s and 70’s there were wonderful French restaurants everywhere. Some more upscale and some mom and pop places. I loved those mom and pop places. Of course I love the new stuff too but there is a place in my heart and memory and taste buds for the stuff we used to get and no longer can.
Yes, those ‘so called’ old-fashioned French classics are hard to find these days. Coq au Vin is served on a regular basis at Le Provencal in Mamaroneck. La Panetiere and La Cremalliere serve duck in various ways throughout the year as a special. But if you are looking for roast duck you might have to venture from French to Portuguese at Aquario in West Harrison. It has been on the menu there for many years…
Those dishes are considered winter dishes. You can still find them in more classic bistrot in France, dishes like daube or boeuf bourguignon, you can do it at home. As for coq au vin, I don’t think I see them on menu very often. I saw them sold in glass jar in shops. True that these dishes are a bit out of fashion nowadays.
Pot au feu, for example, you can find them easily in winter.
@winecountrygirl I have had Alain’s in Nyack on my to-go list for a couple years. They do have coq au vin on the menu. This thread made me realize I don’t seek out French restaurants often in the area. And like the others said, I have not seen these dishes on menus in France recently, but I imagine if you broaden your search to Manhattan you might get lucky.
Edited to add- Cafe d’Alsace in Manhattan has duck a l’orange and a coq au vin special on Sundays.
I frequently pass by D’Gabby and it’s empty every time. The way they plastered pictures of their dishes all over the windows makes it look like a city corner bodega.
Have you tried St. George in Hastings? They took over the Buffet de la Gare location. I have eaten there twice and both times, it was exceptional. They have Coq au Vin on the menu regularly, but I had the specials both times. When I was there last, I had duck breast, sorry no bones, but it was medium rare and wonderfully cooked. I also had Poulet a la Moutarde which I still dream about.
I have and I don’t care for it. Food was ok, but way too crowded for comfort. Four of us were squeezed into a tiny table and the serving pieces were huge. No matter how good the food may be, I don’t deal,well with that.
