A brief write-up of my recent two weeks in Ireland. I did something horrible to my knee right before leaving so limped heavily throughout the trip and was forced to minimize walking due to the pain, which certainly impacted food choices.
Was in Dublin first for about 10 days, mostly working East Coast US hours, which meant most often a full Irish breakfast late morning and then a snack in my cute and comfortable studio apartment when I wrapped up work. Murphy’s Irish Bistro, a short walk away, filled the breakfast need admirably. Lovely staff!
Full Irish Breakfast
Evening snack – best gravlax I’ve ever had, on seeded bread
Favorite dinner – so good we went back twice – was at The Winding Stair, practically next door to where we stayed. The first night I had a Piggy Scotch egg and the best lamb I have ever had; my sister had the veggie Scotch egg and a fish dish she adored. Second night we skipped starters, I had the steak and chips with greens, I can’t remember what she had, but we both loved our dinners, she had some forgotten dessert she loved. The staff were all wise-cracking Dubliners and we liked it so much it was under consideration for a third dinner. Do make reservations – you can do it online.
Piggy Scotch Egg
Lamb rump with veggies
Steak and chips with greens
Spectacular Irish Sunday roast lunch at Hawksmoor Dublin (again, book online) – I had heard this was the best-priced Sunday lunch deal in Dublin and had wanted to go there anyway on account of the beautiful room. At 24€ each it was in fact the bargain of the trip and absolutely delicious. Of course we got extras (oysters for my sister, a glass of wine for me, dessert for her). Lovely service again.
Sunday Roast lunch
My sister really wanted to go to Gallagher’s Boxty House, directly over the Ha’Penny Bridge from us. It was fine, extremely touristy (Americans one side of us, Canadians on the other). I wouldn’t go again but she might. Her Irish lamb stew with barley was considerably better than my dry shepherd’s pie. The boxty fries with aioli we shared to start were excellent but easily enough for six people to share. Much frenetic activity out front on a Saturday evening leading up to a Taylor Swift concert, reminding me that I don’t really like cities much anymore.
We stopped various other places for a quick salad, quiche, coffee, tea, sausage roll, etc. Service was remarkably nice everywhere.
Monday morning we took a train right across the country, almost to Sligo on the West Coast, for the reason we had come to Ireland: a three-day family wedding at Markree Castle in Collooney. I had not known what to expect but it was truly spectacular, from the comfort and charm of the castle itself, to the wonderful food three times a day, to the incredible staff, to the astounding schedule of activities my cousin and his now-husband had put together, including three nights of dancing I was not able to participate in due to my busted knee. My cousins’ thoughtfulness and generosity, backed up by the wonderful service provided by the staff, made it three days none of us will ever forget.
Castle with falconer in front, about to start hawk demonstration
Back of castle with lunch on the terrace
Breakfast one morning
Whisky tasting from local distillery – and there were two more we tasted as well
Truthfully, Ireland had never particularly been on my list and I would go back in a heartbeat.
ETA photos
