Iceland trip report 2024

We’re baaack!

(This is actually Greenland.)
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First proper meal of our first day, fish and chips at the recently opened brick-and-mortar location of the former food stand Fish and Chips Vagninn. Tasty but needed salt (I appreciate salting to taste). Lashings of malt vinegar. I love dragging my chips through mushy peas. And Spring Onion, who had already wolfed down his first pylsur (hot dog) even tried some fish and he was surprised to find that he liked it. Yay—a food victory! He followed up with a cone of mango ice cream from next door, Valdis.

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We didn’t take the budget airline, Play, this time. Not taking a red-eye was nice for a change—we feel pretty good today. Tomorrow, we leave Reykjavik and head to the south coast, which we haven’t done in some time.

As Spring Onion said, Iceland feels like a second home to him. He’s so happy to be back.

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Wow, so cool! I was excited to see the ice floes way down below us on our flight to EWR.

How long are you staying, and what’s happening on the south coast? Is it as expensive as its reputation (Reykjavik, at least)?

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Looking forward to your trip posts. Enjoy!

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Nice start. Reminiscing on Fish and Chips at Fancy Sheep (looks like they moved)

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This is our 10th trip to Iceland and the first I’ve heard of Fancy Sheep. Looks like they moved from Seyðisfjörður, a town we know well, to Jökulsárlón glacier, which we visited many moons ago which Spring Onion wants to revisit because he doesn’t remember the first 2 times. If Fancy Sheep is there, we will hit them up for lunch if the timing works out. Thanks for the rec @Ziggy!

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Love these posts - thanks for taking us along! :grinning:

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Can’t wait to follow along!!! How old is your son? We want to go probably next year. My daughter will be 8 by then.

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Spring Onion will be 10 in December. And crazily, this is his 10th trip to Iceland. :laughing:

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Not much to report but dutifully, I do. Tuesday, we shopped at the Vietnamese grocers and then stopped by the student pub at U of Iceland, which we’ve been meaning to do. Fun space but it was packed in there, with kids watching the ESP v FRA football match. Very respectful, positively quiet crowd, hanging on every play—it was awesome. We got 1 round of drinks and delightfully spiced nuts and headed home.

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Yesterday, we checked out of our great Airbnb and headed east to Hveragerði because B wants to revisit Ölverk, which used to be a favorite place. Pizza and beer were still good, but no more lunch special which used to be pizza and a beer for ~$25USD. Across the street, there is a new foodhall and attached fancy Iceland products shop, the likes of which can be found in Reykjavik or any other city (we’re generally not fans of foodhalls) and felt out of place in this small town which charmed us back in 2017. Progress they say.

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Fun album spotted at Ölverk.

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We ended up around dinnertime in Vík í mýrdal and sadly, Fancy Lamb food truck for fish and chips was not in the cards @Ziggy. We settled on Smiðjan Brugghús . Food was ok pub food—vegan burger for B, meh buffalo cauliflower bites for me. We got a pylsur for SO beforehand. Nice staff.

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Afterwards, we stopped at the grocery store in town before heading to our cottage 40 minutes away and it was an exercise in “tourists behaving badly.” We haven’t been to the so-called Golden Circle since 2019 and this was a reminder of why we haven’t been back. Which is a shame because it is so beautiful down south.

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Oh dear, as Spring Onion would say. It’s Sunday and I’m way behind on my trip report. And this election season keeps getting crazier by the minute.

Thursday through Friday morning
We saw lots of new-to-us sights. We stayed in a small cozy cottage in Kirkjubæjarklaustur (yeah, I can’t pronouce it either) for 2 nights. No food reports because we had simple cold breakfasts included and picnicked for lunch (while out-and-about) and simple dinners at home. We headed north on Friday and stopped in Hofn for lunch at Heppa . Vegan chili burger for B, a BBQ tofu sandwich for me (both were huge, messy, tasty; my tofu was a bit too salty but at least had some spicy kick to it). SO had a plysa beforehand so snacked on a pretzel, which I didn’t try (B said the mustard was wicked spicy). Good beers on tap. Snacky dinner at home of wine, bread, cheese or peanut butter and milk.

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Spent Friday night at a small cottage outside Egilsstaðir to break up a long drive. Much of the same food story, although we had a decent kitchen and grill, which we didn’t use due to lack of raw materials. Checked out and pushed on to Northeast Iceland which is seemingly where the Icelandic people vacation, nearly free of people like us! We stopped by the wonderful Gunnar Gunnarson museum which had an absolutely hopping restaurant for lunch (it’s basically the only place to eat and it’s reportedly very good). No way we could’ve gotten a table, plus we had already decided to eat at a brewery in Egilsstaðir, Austri Brugghús/Askur Pizzeria. Mostly tourists, but decent white pizza with mushrooms, pickled red onions, cream cheese, garlic puree. Double pepperoni for SO. Happy hour starts early, 2 pm — 6 pm. We’re staying for 2 nights at a tiny and cozy cottage in Þórshöfn. I managed to make a delicious meal of salmon, Canary Island-style new potatoes, canned corn, and udon noodles for SO (not pictured) with 1 pot, 1 small skillet, a single-burner HOB, and lots of butter and lemon. The skin impressively crisped up.

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Just came back from a nice breakfast at our cottage and spoke with the innkeeper. They have a cool industrial style throughout, cool dining tables made with second-hand materials by the father-in-law (concrete bases, cast-off pieces of rebar for legs…I need to remember a photo later).

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Fun scenery pics. Very impressive on the crispy salmon!!

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Amazing pictures. What a beautiful place – I can see why you keep coming back!

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Hello from the sunny northern town of Akureyri, one of our favorite places due to the scenery and the awesome public pool. Not much to report lately, food-wise, thus the radio silence. Lots of meals at “home.” We’re having a relaxed trip otherwise. Honestly, with all the news coming from home in the US, it’s been tough to get motivated to post.

When in Akureyri, we have to go to the all-you-can lunch/sushi buffet at Rub23—once is enough on each trip. It’s a great bargain, not the best sushi but other nice fish preps and Spring Onion loves their chicken katsu. We don’t have bottomless bellies so don’t max out our money.

Happy hour at the hostel Akureyri Backpackers now includes all the beers and not just the bottom of the barrel Boli or Gull. B had a nice beer from Húsavík Öl, where we had a pleasant visit a few years ago.

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Happy hour one particularly sunny evening in the Botanical Garden at Lyst , which used to be called Cafe Laut. Spring Onion bought some gumballs from Icelandic girls. He was charmed by their pop-up candy shop.

My favorite tiny design shop in town is a must-do for me. Owner gifted me with some Danish licorice candies.

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The police in Akureyri don’t go to donut shops, they go to the ice cream shop. There were about 6 or 7 cops in line behind us and they were in a good mood.

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We visited the interesting tiny town of Hjalteyri just 30 minutes north of Akureyri. A beautiful setting in a fjord and there are artists here, along with a climbing gym and scuba diving center. We checked out the contemporary art space that’s in an abandoned herring factory. We love checking out towns like this with the unexpected. We also had our fanciest meal of our trip at Eyri Restaurant. Spring Onion had already had his daily ration of pylsa beforehand so we got him homemade bread and butter, which he declared “really good.” The cod tongues were not available, so B and I shared the deep-fried skate wing which was well-prepared and light, but B was a bit lukewarm about it. The daily fish special was halibut and it was delicious; we couldn’t put our finger on all the flavors, but there was a wonderful smoky element and the accompanying shoots, roasted tomatoes, and puree of some sort were all delightful. B had delicious beer from Segull 67, another brewery we enjoyed visiting a few years ago and I had a crisp French white. We were only sad at the small-ish portions.

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We have ~2.5 more full days left. We’re staying back in Hveragerði. I’m sure it will be more of the same in terms of food (eating rudimentary meals in our cottage) so here are some landscape photos to distract y’all. :grin:

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Always a pleasure to read your reports!!

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Well, sadly no more terrible food reports :wink: and even more sadly, we are home in Boston after a great trip.

Spring Onion was amused by this impressively scaled langoustine sculpture outside of a seafood restaurant Hafið Bláa near Þorlákshöfn in the South (we didn’t eat there).

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I watched 5 episodes of this entertaining series Veislan (Feast) on the plane home. It stars the founding chef of Dill, Gunnar Karl Gíslason, and his sidekick, comedian Dóri DNA.

Onward to Sweden and Norway in August!

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Wonderful ride-along-fun! I so enjoy YOUR trips! Best.

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Thank you for these reports, Digga! I have been looking at some of your earlier trips too. I am going to be in Iceland August 21st through the 28th and you have planted a few seeds for my roadtrip choices!
The forest fire smoke is getting a bit thick in NW Montana and it will only get worse in August so Iceland sounds REALLY good.
Thanks again!

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