Da wife corrected me. Mak’s offers only one size wonton. The bowl we had with 8 wontons @ hkd$43.
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I try to soak up the Wan Chai vibe whenever I visit. To the best of my geolocation sleuthing, the building on the left is sitting square on our last known HK address. The ‘hood was not quite as upscale then, by far.
Had to stop and enjoy a treat of BoLo (pineapple) Bun, Gung Jai (Doll) Mein and a coupla over easy eggs. Washed down with some cold half coffee/half tea beverage.
The iconic double decker trams still whizzing folks around Queen’s street. Only the adverts have changed.
Feels great to be back.
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Day trip to LanTou Island. Lunch at a true hole-in-wall in scenic Tai-O, a fisherman village once upon a time.
Off the main track, clientele mostly locals. Romaine with Oyster Sauce. Fried Rice with the village specialty: Fermented Shrimp Paste. Delicious Pork Spare Rib stir fried with Bitter Gourd.
Gondola ride to the Giant Buddha.
Snapped pic of fisherman in the very boats that sell their day’s catch in Sai Kung.
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I’ve been to Tai O only once, and over a decade ago. Also did the gondola.
Your Wan Chai post suggests you used to live there. So, how do you find Hong Kong now? Has it changed? And, also in particular in terms of the food scene?
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My last known/remembered address was in Wan Chai. When mom and I boarded the Pan Am flight for the Golden Mountain (California), I was a mere child. My family had pinched every penny for our move, my only recollection of any restaurant food was the occasional scrambled egg sandwich my grandmother presented to me as a rare special treat. A Hong Kong scrambled egg sandwich is still a very much relished treat to this day!!
Started traveling through Asia over 30 years ago once or three times per year. The lifestyle and culture changes all over are simply astounding. I feel fortunate to have seen firsthand the evolution and growth of many Asian countries, especially the PRC.
Hong Kong used to be the Tail that Wagged the Dog (PRC). Folks that spoke Mandarin were looked upon as country bumpkins who can’t speak civilized Cantonese. Now, just about every Hong Konger speaks or at least understands Mandarin. Never thought I’d see the day.
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Japanese dinner at Shiawase, Level 4 of the Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, TST. A fun evening with a long time HK colleague and his wife.
Shiawase is a Yakitori (grilled skewer) specialist. We opted for their special set dinner for our party of four. As in Japan, our evening started with a round of Highballs. The accompanying Otoshi this evening was a taste of Braised Beef Tongue, Daikon, Cucumber and Carrot.
Followed by a plate of Grilled Fish with infused Mayo. Palate cleansing Salad of Frisée, Radicchio, Gem Lettuce, Tomato, Crab and topped with Tobiko (flying fish roe) adding a delightful crunch.
Wife selected the Dassai 45, complemented the meal and budget well.
Sashimi plate. Hokkaido Scallops, Ebi (sweet shrimp) and Fatty Tuna (Chutoro?).
The Deep Fried White Shrimp was absolutely addictive. Each morsel a teaser for the next.
Clams in Sake broth did not compare favorably with the plump briny Taiwan Clams I’ve enjoyed recently.
Tomagoyaki “with Mentaiko” was actually with Tobiko. Still delicious nonetheless! Creamy balanced with savory and sweet, very nice rendition.
The Yakitori. Grilled Chicken Wings, Thigh, Pork, Ox Tongue, Asparagus and Okra. Well grilled, well complemented by the seeded ground mustard and seasoned mayo.
Unagi Donburi (grilled eel on rice) and Beef Udon.
Cute Mochi balls the dessert for our dinner set. Unbeknownst to wife and I, my colleague’s wife was celebrating her birthday!!! We gladly helped with her b’day cheesecake.
Excused myself to snap some harbour pics while my wife settled the bill. 
Good evening had by all.
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YUM!!! 
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Lunch at Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant in the colorful fishing village of Sai Kung.
A balmy 88°f, I wanted to dine Al fresco under the canopy to enjoy the hustle and bustle of the town, fishing boats cruising by and the smell of the sea. Wife wanted air conditioned indoor comfort. I acquiesced.
Started with a pot of Chamomile and Pu’er. An extra bowl and pot of tea was also provided to rinse one’s dining ware. This practice was de rigueur in HK, not much at all these days.
Ordered a two person set menu. First up, Salt & Pepper Mantis Prawn. Very well cooked, tender and flavorful.
Deep Fried Squid with Salty Egg Yolk.
I’d loved simple Poached Prawns here before, these did not disappoint. Neither of us embellished the shrimp with the provided sauce, delicious shrimpy goodness was all that was required for enjoyment.
Cantonese Steamed White Pompano. Perfect. Need more.
Iceberg with Oyster Sauce, so good with the fish and white rice.
All together now.
Chinese Bean Soup Desserts, right touch of sweetness. With an enhancement of Lily Buds and Lotus Seed. My sweets adverse wife finished her bowl.
A Giant Grouper the size of a six-top waved us farewell. Another successful trip to Sai Kung.
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Wow that looks good. I remember you suggesting to go visit Sai Kung, earlier this year when I posted here about my upcoming trip to HK. Unfortunately, I did not go, so this is a good tip for my next trip. Earlier this year I was only in HK for 5 days in total, so did not have much time either. Next time I’ll be staying at least a week.
I don’t know why, but somehow HK fascinates me tremendously. The cuisine, the architecture, the people, the history - more so than other cities. Last Sunday I even spent the whole afternoon watching HK travel vlogs on youtube lol.
Anyway, I hope you enjoy your last few days!
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Like Stanley, Sai Kung requires a half day committment. Sai Kung is always a nice relaxing respite from the high energy of HK Island and Kowloon. The ride to/fro is worth the journey to the destination. We love the double-decker buses, especially if we get the top front seats. We did.
Great vantage point to view the many parts of Kowloon, the harbour and yaghts and billion (HKD$) homes along Clear Water Bay Road.
The off boat fish sales are always fascinating to me, almost better than our own Half Moon Bay excursions. The midweek action was mild this day, relaxing.
Choose your sea-fresh seafood off the boat and bring to a nearby restaurant for a memorable meal. We’ve been simply ordering directly from a resputable restaurant. The selection and quality is almost unimaginable in diversity and freshness.
Love wandering through the maze of narrow alleyways which still house long-time local homes and home based shops.
Real seafood sun-drying: fish roe, hom yee (dried fish), sea cucumber… Woulda brought some home, delicious, but too pungent for hand carry.
Roller coaster ride back “home” on an infamous thrilling tiny bus. Infamous for the many accidents these buses are known shuttling folks to and fro. Note the signage declaring the speed limit of 80 KPH and a prominent speed display for riders to monitor.
Safe back in Mong Kok.
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That stirred a memory of scoring the front seats on the top of a double-decker to Stanley I am fairly sure. Would have been 30+ years ago. How time flies…
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Almost only ? 
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Love it all!! 
Have prepared so MANY delicious meal fresh off the HMB boats. Black Cod, Ling Cod, Salmon, Dungenous Crab, Rock Crab, Spot Prawns, Uni, Halibut, Sand Dabs, Red Chili Peppers, + more…
If only we can cook the bounty off the boats at Sai Kung ourselves!!!
I’ll take THAT one! (and that one. and that one. and that one…)
Fishmonger will even scale and gut your purchase, not at HMB. (no discussions on which $500 knife this guy needs for his job)
For the DYI (do-it-yourselfers). Squid trips. YUM, Squid sashimi!!
Some bounty from earlier gawking trips.
My, My. so much stuff, no kitchen facility. 
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So I checked my photos taken at Mak’s back in 2007 and 2008… 8 dumplings..
Mak’s used to be a typical/old-school noodle shop. Loads of clippings of reviews in different languages under the glass. More noodles then, more soupy now. Same meal, looks quite different in 2018. I don’t like the new look and crockery. Did make a photo of the receipt. Not sure how much prices have gone up.
Hey, I also took the cable car to Lantau/Big Buddha. Sunset seen from the cable car ride back, and the new bridge and bus route to Macao.
Love riding the double decker everywhere. So much fun, and one of the best things in HK a tourist can experience. Views from inside. One can see neighbourhoods much farther from the touristy centre, and local markets along the route. And it’s also great at night time.
Miss HK. Hope to return in a couple of years time.
But at the moment I have Japan on my mind. (Posting from HND as we speak.)
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Market was in full swing about midnight, Moon Festival stocking Frenzy!
Entire 4 block radius surrounding wholesale market humming with activity. Pallet jacks whizzing about. Cacaphony of Cantonese, Mandarin and swearing. Way cool.
Autumn Festival Fruit Baskets. No, not for sale on the street, for delivery to high end emporium.
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Yum Cha in HK. last day, last chance. Many options, of course. Lei Garden, Tim Ho wan, Crystal Jade, etc… Opted on a shop we’d been impressed with a few years ago.
Ho Hung Kee Congee in Causeway Bay. Despite its recognition as a Michelin rec establishment for many years, the service and food was well priced/valued.
Decor not my cup of tea, food was quality at QPR.
Will definintely revisted to have some of the dinner items from our fist visit.
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Thanks for the tip re Ho Hung Kee. Looks good and will try next time!
I know that area in Causeway Bay as I have stayed many times in the nearby Lanson Place Hotel (now closed). But somehow I often ended up at Lei Garden for casual dim sum.
I’ve just read your trip report from a few years back, for the first time. Never had pomelo skin… I must find and try!
Like you, when I see all the fresh produce on offer at HK markets, my first instinct is buying and cooking at home! I actually did rent a place on Hollywood Road for 6 weeks, around a decade ago, when I was inbetween jobs. I cooked only a few times though, as the small size of the kitchen did not allow me to cook the way I had wanted.
Hope to be back within a year, and hope you had a good flight back.
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epic thread!
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Ho Hung Kee looks seriously upgraded from what I remember! 
EDIT: Oops, meant to reply to @Google_Gourmet.
… you went to Ho Hung Kee and missed their famous “za leung” with cheung fun wrapped around “yao za gwei”. And their char siu bao is very good. Not to mention stir-fried ho fun with beef.
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