[Hida-Takayama, Gifu, Japan] Miyagawa Morning Market 飛騨高山宮川朝市

Miyagawa Morning Farmer’s Market in Hida-Takayama was a must-go for us on this trip because it offered something substantially different from the temples, merchant houses, etc that we had been mostly spending time on during the trip. Farmer’s markets are everywhere where we live so we were eager to check the Japanese equivalent out.

The market was along the Miyagawa River, which spanned the length of a few blocks. The stalls were on the river side, and the shops were on the street side.

It contained a mixture of produce stalls, where all the produce were immaculately sorted and wrapped, as usual.

And cooked food and sweet stalls. And we promptly had a late breakfast there.

And some shops that sold cooked food.

Since we were in Gifu Prefecture, grilled ayu fish made an appearance at this stall. As did hida beef.

Hida-beef nigiri:

Packaged food stalls:

Hida-beef flavored potato chips.


Kitchenware/ craft stalls. We bought a few pairs of very well made chopsticks made of local wood. When asked, the stall owner said they would last decades.

Just like @Google_Gourmet, we enjoyed our time at the market. Overall, a very relaxing way to spend the morning munching on local snacks. The market was a mix of locals and tourists. There was something for everyone.

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What is this?

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They are owara tamatens. Egg whites are beaten with sugar and agar. The result is a light marshmallow like delicacy that is then cut into cubes, dipped into a glaze of beaten eggs, honey, mirin and sake and then fried to a golden color. Its the first time I ate it and it was certainly interesting.

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After we finished at the market, we started walking around the old town of Takayama, which was much more charming than the rather drab Kokubunji-dori leading from the train station to the Miyagawa River.

Contrast Kokubunji-dori with:

the old town:

Takayama Festival floats, stored in units on the street for the rest of the year:

The Showa Kan Museum, which showcases everything during the Showa Period (1926 – 1989). There’s a bit of nostalgia there, since the last 20 years of the period was arguably Japan’s golden age in modern times, with Tokyo developed into the technologically advanced (and expensive) capital that everybody cast an envious eye on, export iconic pop culture hits everywhere like TV series, music and comics, before Japan fell into a doom stagflation loop for the last 30 years that slowed the development to a halt. It seemed like the meal prices on this trip wasn’t very different compared to the first time I was in Japan two plus decades ago. Expensive then, cheap now.

For any Gen Z who happens to be reading this- this is how a TV, video game console (that epic Nintendo!) and video game used to look like:

Since we weren’t hungry yet, we also went to the Machino Hakubutsukan- Takayama Museum of History and Art- to get some culture in before lunch.

The most interesting art in there were a few food-related pieces depicting life at the Miyagawa Market that we just went to:

Cormorant ayu fishing:

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Your pictures of the smiling venders capture the wonderful feeling of freely roaming the streets and markets of rural Japan. Wandering around is so comfortable, with no fear of harm or being maltreated by the locals.

Did you notice the low doorways (~5’), especially in the more ancient buildings? Saw quite a few in the old town area Takayama. I like the pillow/cushion, most probably for visitors who aren’t use to this.

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Are there some many countries/cities were you feel uncomfortable or in danger when walking around at a outdoor market ? I don’t think it is much different in the US or Europe etc.

The Nintendo, the 3D diorama art… I am swooning!

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We don’t travel outside of Scandinavia lately. I thought pick-pocketing was rampant elsewhere. Please tell me I’m wrong. Are European markets blessedly free of pickpockets?

ETA: We’ve never felt unsafe throughout Asia.

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There have been no markets in any country where I have felt unsafe. One of our joys of traveling is checking out the day/night/wet markets of whatever city we visit.

In most of Asia, we have absolutely no trepidation walking through most neighborhoods and alleys at night. Love that freedom to explore without constraints.

Sadly, we don’t have the same freedom to roam at will in our own San Francisco Bay Area. Makes us look forward to our trips abroad all the more.

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I have gone on farmers market and regular visits (and obviously lived) in Europe (many countries) for many decades and never had any problems anywhere. Is there crime (like in pretty much any country in the world) - yes. Is it rampant - no

As somebody who also lives in the Bay Area, I am obviously aware of the homeless issues in some parts of the city but it is very localized and there are many parts where you have no issue to freely walk around. Not sure if I agree with your assessment.

This clip illustrates the level of crime in Japan (specifically, Osaka) versus in America (NYC) quite well. Start at 32:40.

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I would say 95% are free of pickpockets. You just want to avoid highly touristy places - eg Borough market, La Boqueria - as well as public transport in major cities. But I guess that would be the same in NYC and Boston?

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Japan has one of the lowest crime rates in world but the discussion is also around feeling in general uncomfortable in the US which I have problems to see (that doesn’t mean that there can’t be issues but in my experience it isn’t terrible in any way)