I have it in mind that the Michelin Guide doesn’t assess restaurants awarded 1 Star on its service. Which is probably just as well for The Star. Service was slow and it was down to both front of house and the kitchen. Slow for orders to be taken, slow for food to arrive. Later, there was an apology for the delays and a couple of drinks were comp’d. They were busy, apparently. It’s an excuse that doesn’t wash for a place where most, if not all, customers will have booked so they knew exactly what they had to do that evening.
This was our second Michelin 1 star restaurant in August. Both in buildings that are the village pub. But what a contrast. At the other, staff were warm and friendly whereas at the Star, it felt like folk were almost going through the motions. The cuisine was different of course. Not better or worse. Just different. At the other, flavours were quite straight forward. Simple food done really well with creativity. Flavours are more complex at the Star but they are brought together nicely. The Star has two dining rooms – one in the traditional part of the pub, the other more modern. We were in the former and it felt cramped. You had to squeeze between chairs on other tables and your own chair was regularly knocked by passing staff.
As I suggested, the food was much better than the overall experience and is heavily influenced by local, seasonal produce. For instance, there was a ring of dressed Whitby crab (food miles: 34). It’s delish. As was the other starter – a large raviolo filled with a mousse of local duck, smoked ham and sage. It’s surrounded by a broth made from pickled Yorkshire kohlrabi, dandelion and nectarine giving it a sort of sweet and sour flavour.
North Sea turnot was a “special” and priced accordingly eye-watering. It comes perfectly roasted . Alongside, there’s battered langoustine. And Gem lettuce poached in butter and topped with brown shrimps. And it all sits in a shellfish bisque. Fallow deer had been shot in Harome (Food miles: 0.5) and comes as saddle meat. It was perfectly cooked at medium rare but, oddly, had a somewhat dry texture. There’s hazelnut brack in the form of cubes of crisped tea cake, Scottish girolles, their own blackcurrants (food miles: 0) and a Jerusalem artichoke yoghurt. Served separately, a tiny dish of “cottage pie” made from the venison pluck, topped with whipped Jersey Royal potatoes. Two lovely plates of food.
Full marks to the Star for serving a cheese savoury amongst the desserts. It’s not something you see that often, so we both ordered it. And the menu read really well. There’s a couple of small crumpets, topped with Baron Bigod cheese (food miles: 248), thin slices of Australian truffle (food miles: approx 10k), local honeycomb (food miles: 5). And a bitter leaf salad. But here’s the complaint. And it’s a significant complaint. The crumpets were served cold and who has heard of crumpets being other than hot, so the topping starts to melt into the holes. This was a dish from someone who does not understand crumpet eating.
We finished with good espresso and petit fours.
