[Hale Barns, Greater Manchester] San Carlo Fiorentina

It’s about a year since we last visited the restaurant. In between, we’ve been to San Carlo’s new place at Alderley Edge. We hoped that might become our “go to” Italian, as it’s a bit easier to get to than Fiorentina. But it disappointed us on a number of different levels – tables crammed together, noisy, indifferent service and a standard of cooking not a patch on Fiorentina. Which is why we’re back here.

Speaking of service, I’d like to hope that the delay in taking orders was down to them being short staffed on the night, rather than anything more significant. But it does suck some of the enjoyment out of the evening when you’re sat there finger-tapping. But, once orders were finally in the system, everything was fine.

One of the nice things about San Carlo is they offer a number of pasta dishes in starter size as well as main course. So, there was a rigatoni alla Norma for one of us. A rich and clingy sauce of aubergine, tomato, garlic and basil, with a grating of pecorino on top… Yes, it’s a starter portion but one big enough that you don’t need to order a carb with your main course. And , in that case, it was tagliata. Now, in Italy, that’s usually sliced steak on a bed of rocket, topped with shavings of Parmesan. It’s not as good here. The rocket is more garnish than proper salad and the cheese comes in one big slice. But. it’s OK.

Another dish that you can have as starter or main is melanzane alla Parmigiana. Slices of aubergine baked in a tomato sauce, with the cheese grated through it. This was really tasty. We’d ordered garlic bread which was good for scooping up the sauce. That was followed by a chicken main course. They bat out a chicken breast so it’s quite thin and cooks quickly, but is still moist. There’s another tomato sauce – this one given some heat from nduja. And, if nduja isn’t making it pokey enough, there’s a griddled red chilli. It needed something else. And that something was zucchini fritte - shreds of courgette battered and fried to crisp. A number of restaurants offer fried courgette but this really is the best.

We didn’t fancy dessert but, as you’d expect in an Italian gaff, espresso was top notch.

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Another year passes, so worth a review for HO

Over the years, we’ve had some good meals at Fiorentina and this latest one was an absolute belter. Yes, the menu has the usual run of the mill pizza and pasta but it goes much further to include dishes you’re not likely to find in other nearby Italian restaurants. Couple that with great service – semi formal but not up itself.- and it’s a winner.

So, for one starter, there were pan fried chicken livers, their richness enhanced with a Marsala sauce. There’s an earthiness from chopped chestnuts. But everything is balanced and lightened by the inclusion of grapes. It’s one of the most enjoyable starters in quite a while. One of the things we like about the restaurant is that a number of the pasta dishes are available in starter of main course size. Ravioli filled with lobster and crab is one such. It may be the most indulgent starter on the menu. Certainly one of its delights with the pasta sitting in a little light cream sauce, enhanced with pink peppercorns and a scattering of prawns. We shared some garlic bread

Seafood main courses are miles away from the offerings of your local high street Italian. Grilled yellowfin tuna was bang on at medium rare. The fillet sat on a bed of red lentils, cooked in a tomato sauce, giving it a lovely background sweetness… Lemon sole was perfectly pan fried and came with a butter sauce. For added interest, there’s a scattering of clams and a few shreds of asparagus. As pretty much always here, we shared a portion of crisp fried courgette shreds.

Desserts are not San Carlo’s strong point and we’ll often pass but I had a corner to fill. Coppa San Carlo brings three balls of vanilla ice cream, lightly drizzled with chocolate sauce and a couple of Italian biscuits (the sort I’d better know as trifle sponges). Almost needless to say, espresso to finish was excellent. Damn fine coffee. And hot too.

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