I can summarise our evening in just one word – fantastic. If you need more words, then it was one of the best meals we’ve had all year. It’s a short menu – just three dishes at each course and, in six plates of food, neither the kitchen nor front of house put a food wrong.
Which is just as well, as for city folks like us, getting there was something of an adventure in itself. Goartland is a small isolated village on the Moors. You get there on a narrow, winding road, with drops on one side and the carriageway and verges littered with sheep, which seem disinclined to get out of your way any time soon. Add to that, the smoke off to one side from an out of control fire on the moorlands (bad enough to make the national TV news). And a thunderstorm rolling in, turning to a hail storm – in August for goodness sake.
But the drive was soon put behind us,as bread was served – their version of the traditional northeast stottie. It’s served with butter blended with kippers from Hartlepool. And there’s a cheese fondue for dunking. The organic cheese comes from Botton, just up the road towards Whitby and is made in a residential community assisting folk with learning difficulties. It’s a fine cheese and a fine project.
Wild roe deer from the Moor was turned into a tartare. The mound of meat was surrounded by truffled carrot juice and a spoonful of mayo, spiked with Henderson’s Relish. It comes with panisse crackers. I don’t think I’ve had venison tartare before and it’s delish. As was a roasted scallop which came with a really well flavoured Cullen skink, cut with parsley oil.
There was a lovely tranche of North Sea cod, perfectly poached in brown butter., so that it came aawy in big white flakes. There’s a rich Whitby lobster sauce, a dab of garlic mayo and some confit fennel. A vegetarian dish across the table, in the form of a caramelised onion and cider rarebit tart. And a cracking rarebit at that. It’s moistened by a courgette and rosemary sauce . And there’s a mix of summer veg – tiny new potatoes, green beans and courgettes.
A set custard was crème brulee by another name. The custard given a mild flavouring from fig leaf and it’s accompanied by poached apricots and a Goathland honey madeleine. My partner is the baker of the couple and declared this to be an absolutely top notch madeleine – light, fluffy, with just a hint of sweetness from the honey. I’d decided on cheese. Four from the county – Yorkshire Blue, a Gouda type which, I think, also comes from the Botton community, something goaty and a fourth that I’ve forgotten. Apricots put in another appearance, this time as a spiced chutney which went well with the biscuits band crackers.
Good espresso and chocolate truffle to finish. Then it was time for the drive back. This time in the dark.Still with sheep in the middle of the road.
